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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 12, 2015 15:34:29 GMT -5
I miss the days when you proudly displayed a photo of your pink beast.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 12, 2015 13:38:39 GMT -5
Hey, I already know how to reverse drill and then eazy out the broken off exhaust studs. Been riding around with one stud holding the header to head. I had initially tipped my ride over breaking the single clamp holding exhaust pipe to frame. After about 50 miles of riding the stress was too much and one of the studs broke. I then bought two new round clamps and installed them. After about 150 miles of riding the second stud sheered off and one of the round clamps also broke! Its time for me to take off the exhaust head and put it on my worktable where i can successfully remove and install new 4mm studs and foil gasket. I plan on removing engine from frame. I do know how to do this and plan on using a milk crate to balance the frame on. I have a rafter in my shed i figure i could use rope to suspend the frame from. Is this nessecary or reccomended? Have you any experience using a milk crate to balance frame while engine is dissconnected? How did that work? I cant locate my roomate right now so Ill be doing this job solo. My only concern is what does removing the exhaust head involve? Is there a gasket? I will be doing a 83cc bbk with all the mods soon so this should be fun. I just want to take some other "heads" along for the ride! Lol?  Couple of suggestions: 1. Doing this by yourself is no problem at all. With the wheel still attached you can lift the engine with 1 hand. You DO need to raise the frame a bit, but you can do that any way you want. Crate. Jack. Rafter. We are not talking big weights here. 2. Good luck drilling / Easy-Outing the stud. It's possible to do, but the stud is steel and the head aluminum so the slightest error and the drill is into soft aluminum. With the low price of replacement (new) heads many would not even consider the job .... or would (1) replace the head; (2) try to remove the stud on the "spare" head so an error isn't a big deal. 3. Especially if you plan to BBK your scoot soon, why mess with the old head? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 12, 2015 1:34:20 GMT -5
Well im glad i never ordered them...what do you run? I believe the link Wilds refers to (GEH - George) is someone who ended up just using H4 halogens, which plug right into the standatd ChinaBulb socket and give about a million times more light. CREE LEDs - if they are reasonably high powered - have to have a radiator fin structure at the base because they generate a good deal of heat. Some have trouble with the size of the fin; others with the heat melting the ChinaPlastic bowl inside the headlight structure. I think that's why the most common solution is to use H4 bulbs. you may / will have to clip off the connector and splice in a connector that plugs onto the H4 - but the main thing is they fit directly into the fizture where the ChinaBulb fits. And the glorious increase in light you get ~~~~ !!!!!!!!! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 11, 2015 17:32:13 GMT -5
Listen to Rcq ! He is 100% right about the h4 bulbs. Over last summer I noticed the h4 bulbs resembled the socket that my headlight bulbs sat in. After hitting a deer and talking to rcq , he encouraged me to give it a shot and use the h4 bulb. It was the best mod I've done when it comes to seeing at night and for safety. I tried fog lights with little success. But the H4 bulbs are perfect. D'jew ever install your 11-pole and turn both those puppies on George? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 11, 2015 17:12:45 GMT -5
I have a Taotao quantum tour 150, a new one 2014 I like it, but the headlights are not very bright at all, was wondering if led lighting was available. It already has led turn signals and stop light. What do you think ? Pretty much everyone I know just ditches the ChinBulb and gets an H4 from Autozone or whatever. HUGE increase in light, and your stator will prob. handle it as long as you are not running dual bulbs (then go to an 11-pole stator). |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 10, 2015 0:21:54 GMT -5
Lol...I take it apart when I work on it obviously. I just dont wanna have to deal with a manual petcock if I dont need to as it would be kind of a pain to access. And knowing how forgetful I am I'd forget about it all the time I presume your gas tank is higher than the level of the carb so you do not need a pump. otherwise I'd recommend ditching the vacuum crap altogether and getting an electric pump - join at least the 20th century! but presuming you do not need a pump, a few things: 1. you can locate the manual petcock anywhere that is convenient. it is NOT necessary to locate it in the same place, if that's inconvenient. 2. The times you forget to turn a petcock off are of no concern. Almost all carbureted motorcycles have a manual petcock and NOBODY turns them off. The float valve will stop the flow of fuel just fine ... and when it fails you will want to replace it anyway, manual petcock or not. 3. Make sure you have removed all ChinaRubber. Nothing will destroy your fuel system more surely than little pieces of partially dissolved rubber floating around. ChinaRubber is made of cardboard - I am convinced of it. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 9, 2015 19:22:04 GMT -5
No. Remove the Cap Nuts on the Back side and should be able to tap the Studs thru. give her a try M-8 Nothing there on the back side:  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 9, 2015 19:07:12 GMT -5
Nuts on the Back side. That other is 100% Genuine Fake ABS. just a lousy check valve to prevent a Hydraulic Spike. Ya ya Fake ABS. So to change the pads you have to drop the whole wheel. What a piece of crap. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 9, 2015 18:26:07 GMT -5
Almost time to think about changing the pads in the front brake. BUT THERE AREN'T ANY CALIPER BOLTS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Instead, there are 2 rubber things where bolts should be. Anyone have any experience with this thing?  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 6, 2015 22:07:07 GMT -5
Oh, to answer your earliest question 70 to 75 mph would be legit. looking at your sig it looks like you do have a ton of upgrades on your bike. My budget is limping at the moment. what would be the cheapest upgrade for the most significant top end in your opinion? my only upgrade so far is a performance coil Best single upgrade would be engine displacement. Here is a complete 60mm Taiwan BBK (piston, jug, rings, performance head, cam). Missing only is a larger intake manifold ($20) and large carb ($varies), which can easily be added later: www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-GY6-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-TAIWAN-60MM-CYLINDER-KIT-CYLINDER-HEAD-CAMSHAFT-/181785340901?hash=item2a53402be5This drops into most 150cc GY6 engines without any mods to the crankcase - just remove the stock parts and bolt in the new kit. Note: without also adding better breathing ~~~ carb, intake manifold, and air filter, plus better muffler ~~~ you will NOT get the full upgrade performance. But this is where i would start. No. Displacement is increasing the volume of air/fuel that is drawn in, compressed, ignited. It means, basically, a larger piston (or, if you get ambitious and want to completely disassemble the engine and put in a high performance crankshaft, that too). |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 6, 2015 22:05:22 GMT -5
Oh, to answer your earliest question 70 to 75 mph would be legit. looking at your sig it looks like you do have a ton of upgrades on your bike. My budget is limping at the moment. what would be the cheapest upgrade for the most significant top end in your opinion? my only upgrade so far is a performance coil Best single upgrade would be engine displacement. Here is a complete 60mm Taiwan BBK (piston, jug, rings, performance head, cam). Missing only is a larger intake manifold ($20) and large carb ($varies), which can easily be added later: www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-GY6-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-TAIWAN-60MM-CYLINDER-KIT-CYLINDER-HEAD-CAMSHAFT-/181785340901?hash=item2a53402be5This drops into most 150cc GY6 engines without any mods to the crankcase - just remove the stock parts and bolt in the new kit. Note: without also adding better breathing ~~~ carb, intake manifold, and air filter, plus better muffler ~~~ you will NOT get the full upgrade performance. But this is where i would start. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 2, 2015 17:58:58 GMT -5
Not possible the tachs are doubling the actual engine speed .... otherwise they would be showing 15K or 16K at WOT. Unless the actually rpms are 1/2 what they are reading. I mean if the engine is actually idling at 700- 850 rpms . then the stock TACHS double that. I know its a long shot but if I'm reading the exhaust right , hats what's happening. OK, George, I think I have some info for ya. The digital (and analog) tachs are hooked up. Here are 3 photos of what they read at idle (I have it set to 2,000 on the analog tach), 4,000 rpm and 6,000 rpm.    The digital tach is no doubt dead nuts on since it's got no display error (the analog one does, since the movement of the needle has to be calibrated to the pulse count). You can see the analog tach is almost perfect at 6,000 rpm. My guess is that's where they calibrated it. At lower speed the analog tach gets progressively less accurate. at 4,000 rpm it reads high by 220 rpm, or about 6% at 2,000 rpm it reads high by 395 rpm, or 25% (which is terrible! China!) So, while I thought I had my idle set to 2,000 it was really idling at 1,605. Hope this helps. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 1, 2015 14:06:30 GMT -5
Remember, these are 4-strokes so 2 revolutions of the crank = 1 complete cycle - 1 spark (and 4 revs of the crank = 2 sparks). The tachs I have are both non-adjustable, made for 4-stroke engines. At best I can get to about 8k rpm's. Trust me - that little COX-airplane engine is NOT going 16K (and also is not only going 4 K). Actually these scoots fire on every revolution. They fire at tdc each time it hits Tdc, but there is only ignition on every other spark. So every full revolution down then up , the plug fires. So every other spark is wasted. Just to repeat - neither of us are "arguing"; just trying to understand. This one i don't get. Your question isn't about the accuracy of the tach (i.e., if it's off 5% or 15%) but about the setting - is the tach reading half (or twice) the real rotational speed. But looking at both possibilities does not make sense to me ~~~ 1. Tach is reading twice the actual speed: That would mean when the tach says the engine is at 1400 RPM the engine is really at 700 RPM. But that's impossible. 2. Tach reading is half actual speed: That would mean when the tach reads 8,000 RPM the engine is really at 16,000 RPM. That's also impossible. In fact, if you are using a digital display tach the error is going to be very, very small (unless you are using an inductive pickup - "sense" wire wrapped around spark plug wire - in which case some sparks could be missed. The "counter" inside the tach is a simple IC and will count properly unless there is a defect. There could be a calibration error if your tach displays analog RPMs, but that would be ... what? ... 5% maybe? It's really fun when you latch onto things and uncover things no one knew ... but for tachs i just don't get how there can be an issue. Help me out here ..... |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 1, 2015 13:59:13 GMT -5
I would think that multiple cylinder engines can idle at a lower speed than single cylinder engines. Yeah, of course. An 8 cylinder fires 8 times more per rotation than do our little fly fart engines. Less time between firings means it can sustain a lower RPM. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 30, 2015 21:45:54 GMT -5
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