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Post by timmo1 on Feb 19, 2014 19:35:50 GMT -5
Well, it's been a while since I've updated this but rest assured, work is still continuing. I managed to find a replacement head, piston, rings and gaskets in Japan and had them shipped over (at great expense)- These arrived just a few days ago.
In the meantime, most of the frame is stripped and, like the wheels and other parts, suffered from the rust bug under the original paint. I'm in the process of organising paint- Originally I intended to get it sprayed by a car painter but the cost of the cylinder head etc meant I'll have to paint it myself to save some money
A couple of questions for the gurus: The previous owner filled the crankcase etc with oil to stop the parts going rusty etc- What's the best way to remove this (as well as any grime that may be in there?)
The new piston has a dried film of oil/protectant (presumably to protect it in storage)- Should this be removed before installation?
When reassembling, is it ok/good to have some fresh 2 stroke oil in there to lube things before the fuel/oil mix is drawn through etc? (I'm intending to replace the oil injection system with pre-mix as I suspect a leaking oil line caused the original seizure)
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Post by timmo1 on May 18, 2013 20:31:11 GMT -5
An update- I've stripped the rear subframe back to the metal as there was a lot of rust under the original paint and the paint that the previous owner put on to cover it up.  And primered and painted it   One thing I couldn't do was remove one part of the rear transmission/Gearbox....since I don't have any sort of manual, I wasn't too keen to pull this too hard in case it broke (it's only soft alloy). Instead I cut the guard and pulled it off to strip/paint it. Then a small replacement piece was made to re-instate the cut piece.  I'm now stripping the wheels and repainting those while I wait for a replacement piston ring to come. |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 30, 2013 20:13:11 GMT -5
I had a good day on Good Friday cleaning, rust killing, priming and painting parts that I'd taken off- Here's some of the 'pile' so far. That exhaust system weights A LOT....can't wait to see some oily blue two stroke smoke coming out of that again  I've managed to find some compatible rings (fingers crossed) so apart from needing to remake a gasket, I think I have everything I need to put it back together.  I decided to remove the engine from the frame as well as it will make reassembling it a lot easier and the frame below it was really gunked up so that needs a good clean and paint  |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 26, 2013 16:59:41 GMT -5
Thanks for your input imnts2 I'm under no illusions that getting this running again will result in a daily rider, nor anything fast, I bought it simply as a cool project and as something to get me off the computer in the evenings since I spend all day on one already  It definitely fits into the '2 smoke' category from what I've seen of videos of them running and I certainly agree that the weight + old engine + old bearings etc etc will not make it anything close to fast. But one thing it IS, is cool...and rare and I'd like to try and get it close to its former glory, commercial non-success of this model aside (which IMHO, was due to pricing and product placement within Daihatsu dealerships rather than motorcycle dealers rather than any inherent faults in the product). The only money I've spent on it so far is for rust killer, sand paper and some paint and I'll be doing all the work myself so if things don't work out it's no biggy- I would still have learnt a lot. Sending the engine overseas would be a) expensive and b) they would run into the same issues as me in trying to find parts I think (although I'd be interested to hear about custom parts manufacture there if anyone has details/ Costs etc). |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 25, 2013 17:06:35 GMT -5
Don't worry about measuring the rings. Just measure the piston and get the rings that go with it on the chart. If it was a standard engine I would agree....but these are a bit different as they are quite deep. |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 25, 2013 17:05:37 GMT -5
Great scooter trike! I would not try and sand the piston yourself. I would take it to an automotive machine shop and ask them if they can fix it up for you, perhaps a motorcycle shop with a good sized shop might be able to help you as well. I know you probably want to keep it all original but have you thought about putting a newer power plant in it? I've gently sanded the piston already with a very fine grit as the alloy is very soft....it still has some ridges etc but they are no higher than the orientation arrow in the original casting. I have thought about a new engine although I really don't want to go down this route if possible. The other issue is, I've yet to find an engine which has the output shaft to the variator on the right hand side of the engine like this Daihatsu has, although I'm welcome to any suggestions in that regard. |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 25, 2013 17:01:14 GMT -5
Thanks for this I'm currently drawing up the piston etc in a 3D program so I know what the various measurements are and can send an detailed image with enquiries from parts suppliers. I have seen needle bearing kits which take up the extra slack to convert between a 12mm and 10mm wrist pin so that isn't a huge issue. My plan of attack for now (since I haven't been able to find a direct replacement piston) is to order some compatible rings, reassemble the engine and check compression/get it started with the current piston which I've cleaned up. |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 18, 2013 17:51:38 GMT -5
My dilemma is that I am restoring a rare 1975 Daihatsu Hallo (see my thread here: itistheride.boards.net/index.cgi?action=display&board=50ac&thread=288&page=1#4036) and replacement parts (piston and rings) are proving very difficult to find. With the possibility of not being able to find those parts nor a suitable replacement piston from another engine, does anyone know how easy it is to replace the entire top end (and con-rod if necessary) with, say, parts from another similar engine (in terms of bore/stroke)- Replacing the entire engine is actually harder due to the way this three wheeler is laid out. What things do I need to take into consideration (Stud placement and diameter, port position, con-rod length...?) and, in the opinion of any wise scooterers, is this a feasible solution? It's a fairly extreme solution I admit, but I'm not having any luck trying to find a new piston and rings. Trying to find a piston from another engine is also proving hard with the combination of bore, stroke, piston height, wrist pin diameter, ring location, squash area etc etc. |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 13, 2013 22:01:38 GMT -5
i believe that Lawnboy mowers are 2t and the piston and rings might work for on of them Sorry I dont know what you mean by '2t'? I also can't seem to find any diameters of those rings? |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 12, 2013 1:28:45 GMT -5
Well, here it is as I got it- Lots of rust and grime that needs to come off- Im stripping parts, removing paint and rust and repainting as I go: It's a good way to learn a bike!   Currently I'm stripping and cleaning one of the rear shocks and I've already cleaned and repainted the exhaust and some of the covers while I try and source a piston/rings. |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 11, 2013 2:50:35 GMT -5
Bump?  |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 6, 2013 16:14:37 GMT -5
Is it just a case of sanding out the imperfections? How much can come off before I need to start worrying about loss of squash area?
Is the loss of part of the skirt OK? (it may be hard to see in the picture but is just by my thumb in the second picture)
I *think* I can find some replacement rings from the TOMOS 41mm listed in the pdf above....from the remains of the rings off my piston they are around 1.8mm deep (I can't measure the ring land depth exactly as my calipers are too thick) but I'm not sure how deep the TOMOS rings are (at a guess they are square 1.5mm X 1.5mm)- Would 0.3 of a mm make too much of a difference or would they just 'float' a bit more?
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 6, 2013 3:07:20 GMT -5
Another question- Any thoughts on if I can use this piston? It has a) pockmarks on the top of the crown from where the busted ring was based around b) a portion missing on the skirt   Generally its easy to just 'buy a new one'....but with this, it isn't that simple.  |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 5, 2013 20:48:40 GMT -5
Thanks to 'Motts' and this diagram: get2itparts.com/download/pistongrid.pdfThere appear to be a couple of pistons which could fit The dimensions of mine are: Piston Diameter: 41mm Piston height: 50mm Pin diameter: 12mm Crown to top of piston: 3mm Pin to crown: 22mm 'Window' width: 25mm 'Window' height: 15mm There is a TOMOS/PUCH piston which is broadly similar in a 42mm dia (since I'll likely need to bore it out due to some scoring of the cylinder walls) but it only has 1 ring- Is this likely to be a problem? Although the dimensions of the intake/exhaust windows aren't listed, the total height of the piston would need to be shortened by 4mm too- Is this likely to be a problem? |
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Post by timmo1 on Mar 5, 2013 20:32:28 GMT -5
This is a continuation of my old thread at ScootDawg (RIP wee fella) Hi there- I'm Tim and I've just purchased 1974 Daihatsu 'Hallo'...never heard of it? That's because only a couple of thousand were made- Most stayed in Japan but a few made it to the USA and some down to where I live, in New Zealand. They actually came in two models- A 50cc two stroke and an electric powered model. It's a three-wheel scooter with the two wheels at the back sitting on a subframe which also holds the engine. The front is similar to other scooters of the period and tilts when you corner (while the rear section stays flat).  Anyway, long story short- I'm wondering if anyone can give ANY help in the form of photos, diagrams, compatible parts etc. My one had a ring failure 10 years ago and has scored the top of the piston- I'm hoping to resurrect the ol' girl and get it going again However, finding parts may be difficult and the lack of reference material might make things hard as well (I've been hammering Google since I got it to try and find information) I have seen a couple of old Yahoo group posts from the USA talking about the models (with one gentlemen alluding to the fact he had a service manual for one, hurrah!) so thought I might as well make this forum my base for the rebuild Thanks in advance |
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