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Thanks for the welcome oldchopperg.

Urbanmadne



The problem is that Alleyoop eliminated that from the equation when he said,

but we were talking about two difference engine rpm's at 50 mph. When I asked if this is not belt slip, the answer was no. I think you can see the problem. If the variator has reached its highest gear, the belt is not slipping then how can two different input rpm's result in the same output rpm at the rear wheel?

Maybe I am the Devil. Haha.

I own a motorcycle and a scooter. The motorcycle has a steel chain and steel gears. This phenomena does not happen because the steel chain and gears cannot slip so there is a fixed relationship between the engine rpm and the rotation speed of the rear tire.

One difference between the motorcycle and scooter is the transmission. As the referenced article states, the people who design these CVT's say the belt slips more when applying more torque. So under acceleration the belt slips more resulting in a higher rpm for the same 50 mph speed. Backing off the throttle and reapplying to maintain the 50 mph means applying less torque to maintain the same speed resulting in less slip so a lower rpm results in the same 50 mph.

This is no different than using a wrench to loosen a nut. When the nut is not loose, you have to apply a lot of torque to loosen it, but once it is loose the amount of torque required to continue turning it is much reduced. On the other hand wrenches like strap wrenches based on a belt can slip under torque.

This explanation also explains why this is less likely with smaller engines. Smaller engines have less available torque so they cannot cause as great an increase in slip. It also says that if you increase speed very gradually which applies less torque over a longer period of time the phenomena is less likely to occur.

If you have a scientific explanation or a scientific paper to explain the process I am willing to listen.

Isn't this variator belt slip under load causing the initial higher rpm?

The only correlation I have had with fuel is between summer blend and winter blend gas here. My Yamaha Riva 125 would get 92 mpg during the summer but with winter gas, it dropped to mpg. My recollection is that winter blend gas has more butane than summer gas. I think the changeover is made in the spring.

The reason I change oil at 1,500 mile intervals is two fold. I do mostly freeway riding at 7,000-7,500 rpm. What I noticed is that around 1,500 miles, the engine temperature at 7,500 rpm starts to rise. As soon as I change the oil the engine temperature drops. Second I am using standard auto oil not the grade recommended by Honda which is their GN4 or HP4(part synthetic) oils or an oil meeting the old SF or SG classification.



So I suspect that the Mobil SN, SM, SL rated oil I use has less anti-wear components. Honda also warns in the operators manual about servicing more frequently if operating at WOT. I avoid that but 7,500 is pretty close to redline.

I bought my 2001 with ABS for $1,200 with 20,000 miles on it. It now has 26,600. I had to rebuild the water pump (oil seal turned hard as a rock, not the mechanical seal that can be damaged by coolant with silicates), replaced the variator belt, weights, repair the speedometer, checked the valves, cleaned the carburetor.

It has the 249 cc horizontal engine not the 244 cc vertical one. I change the oil every 1,500 miles. The oil consumption in 1,500 miles is a drop in one cross hatch pattern of the dipstick. Just changed the tires to Michelin City Grips from Bridgestone HOOPS. As mentioned on another thread, I am puzzled why a company like Honda would recommend in the OEM service manual an L rated tire (75 mph). The City Grips are rated P for mph and cost less than the L rated tire.

When I bought it, it would top out at 60 mph on GPS at 8,000 rpm but after the variator work, it now does 75 mph at 8,000 rpm. I ride mostly highway so most of the time the rpm is between 7,000 and 7,500 which is around 65 and 70 mph on GPS.

I wouldn't mind having a new Forza which at 279 cc and fuel injected is a bit faster but just as stingy on fuel. The Reflex is around 68-69 mpg.

There was a 2001 with 29,000 miles on it here on Craigslist recently for $700. I went and saw it and rode it. It was missing a few plastic pieces but otherwise seemed in good shape. It didn't sell. The guy said he had to return to LA the next day and de-listed it.

Forgot mention that going to an ABS bike dropped my insurance premium 22%.