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Can someone tell me if it is doing it now?

Sorry, I actually have the file on my computer and have scanned it with 3 scanners, Malawrebytes (one of the best out there) Windows Defender, and Microsoft Safety Scanner and also checked it and the site at this place:

sitecheck.sucuri.net/scanner/

All came up good. Plus to make this work I had to upload part of it on my Godaddy FTP host site and I can assure you I would never upload a virus infected file on my own site that I pay good money for.

You can run the Microsoft Safety scanner on your own computer for free "if your antivirus will let you"

www.microsoft.com/security/scanner/en-us/default.aspx

You can also run the free download of Malwarebytes and while you do leave this site open.

www.malwarebytes.org/lp/malware_lp/

I run the Pro version of this software just to watch the forum for unwanted files, etc. I have even see a photobucket picture come up as a malicious site.

JR

[replyingto=davec]DaveC%20%20[/replyingto]This could be a proboards thing They are going through a lot of changes before the V5 deadline. Sometimes it all acts weird on me too?

What browser are you using?

JR

No need to panic. I just installed a image scroller that I've been working on for weeks and the reason it has come up on your antivirus is because it is a "unidentified publisher"

I wouldn't put anything on here that would cause member issues, just like Hank said it comes up clean and I've scanned it with 3 malware and virus scans and also I just ran a Securisite check of our site;;


sitecheck.sucuri.net/results/itistheride.boards.net/index.cgi

As you can clearly see no problems. You will have to go to your antivirus and add this to the list of accepted websites or put up with the annoying dings of your antivirus.

What are you using? I despise Norton and Webroot they think everything is malicious.


Edit: I also just went and scanned the malicious URL that your antivirus is claiming is bad and found it clean too:

sitecheck.sucuri.net/results/www.itistheride.com/crawler.js

This is the code I'm using for our new "member" picture gallery for here and the new V5 forum.

JR

I just added the Goggle search function at the bottom of the page, enjoy.

JR

Hey folks, didn't ignore this. For whatever reason I've had a glitch arise on the codes in the forum structure and my linking photobucket account that I store these converted images to? I've got it all worked out except one icon on the normal reply window and I'll figure it out too.

Thanks for your patience.

JR

Here is the tutorial for the adjustment and while it does require removing a lot of things I recommend it for beginners and newbies at least the first time.

itistheride.boards.net/index.cgi?board=250ee&action=display&thread=151

I was asked about a easier and quicker way and I will tell you my way and since I do know the engine well, my last valve adjustment was done in 19 minutes and that doesn't count gathering up all my tools and such, just the time it took to perform the adjustment.

Top view of the carb and battery with the seat and carb cover removed:



Remove the battery and cut a square hole in the bottom of the battery box large enough for your hand to easily go through and expose the top or intake valve cover like in this picture. Leave at least a one inch lip all the way around the box and when you're done just cut a thin piece of sheet metal, galvanized that you can get at the local hardware and put in in the bottom and place the battery back in.





The bottom valve can be accessed by simply removing the belly pan back bolt on each side and it will drop far enough down to expose the bottom exhaust valve cover:




Remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. One bolt on the bottom is very difficult to get too. I use a little box end 8mm wrench get it out and the other two can be removed with a socket/ratchet.

I then remove the spark plug, very tight but can be removed without any plastic removal. This allows the engine to turn over easier and allows me to find TDC.

I then remove the black plastic cover over the variator, not the aluminum variator cover itself and this exposes the variator along with the variator nut. I use a socket and ratchet to turn the engine over.



Now this is what I do different than most. I do not remove the cam sprocket cover.



I do not worry about aligning the cam sprocket marks:



I go to the muffler side and remove the plug with the correct size allen wrench and expose the flywheel that has the "V" notch mark;



I then use the ratchet on the variator and very slowly turn the variator CCW thus moving the flywheel to locate the "V" mark. Remember the slightest turn on the variator makes the flywheel move a lot! In fact if my wife is around I have her turn the variator while I watch for the mark. When it's close I will take a flat blade screwdriver and move it the last little bit until the "V" mark is perfectly aligned.

Then I take a stiff but flexible piece or electrical wire and insert it in the spark plug hole and see how far it will insert. If it immediately hits the top of the piston, I'm good to go, if it goes down in the cyclinder I know I'm on the exhaust stroke and then turn the flywheel another round and check again which will make me on the compression stroke.

Then I adjust the intake valve and then the exhaust. I do not even do it like this:




I loosen the nut, back off the adjuster then place a feeler gauge under the adjuster and screw it back down with my fingers until the feeler gauge will not fall out. I use a over sized guage, (exhaust a 8mm) then I tighten down the nut securely with a wrench, pull the guage out which will be very tight. I then check it with a 5 mm and it'll be right on every time. When tightening the nut it causes the center adjusting bolt to tighten too tight which makes it come out just right by using a too thick guage to start with. The little cresent wrench is just too hard to hold and tighten right with the correct thickness guage.

On the intake I use a 6mm and the check it with a 4mm when tightened. So her back up and you're good to go.

4950cycle, after about 10K in miles the valves settle down and may never need adjusting again, I also told you this the time you mentioned adjusting them so wide too.

The "V" timing mark is the critical mark and you can cut down on the steps by doing it as I have said, never had one issue doing it this way.

JR