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It was very easy to make and it worked perfectly. The mechanical seal is actually glued in with some sealant so unless you use this or the special Honda tool, it would be very difficult to remove it from the aluminum housing. In fact without these instructions, most people actually do not bother with this repair, they pay the $150 and replace the whole water pump assembly. 

I used Peak premixed 50/50. It said "Phosphate and Silicate free" on the website. You could also splurge and buy Honda Antifreeze but it is expensive. 

Superjew78
Take a look at this site, it will show you how to take apart that water pump and replace the mechanical seal. That's the part that is leaking in you picture. The instructions are for a Honda Reflex but the parts you show are exactly the same so your bike may be pretty close. Be careful removing the impeller. Do it like the instructions say and remove it after pulling the pump out. I have read several stories on the internet where people followed the service manual and tried to remove the impeller while the pump was in the bike. They broke the tab off the oil pump that drives the water pump shaft. When that happens, it is split the case time. You have to replace the oil pump. Here is the link: Reflex Water pump service  I did this in an afternoon on my Reflex. The write-up is very clear and I bought all the parts to make the tool at the home improvement store for less than $10. Once you are done, make sure the anti-freeze you use to refill the bike has no silicates. Silicates will eat that mechanical seal in a few thousand miles. That may be what happened to your bike. 

Maxtera,
Webike! is a website where Japanese manufacturers can advertise their merchandise. The shipping times will vary depending on that vendor. I bought a JDM sidestand for the Aero and it was in my hand within 5 working days.
I have seen that short tinted windshield on their site. Maybe if my shield gets worse, l'll pull the trigger and order one. If I find a deal on a standard shield, I may try to cut one of them down too. I found that you can get the clear vinyl edging from the auto parts store. I don't think there is a difference between the low and standard shield other how long they are.

I never knew what the phrase "it breaks if you look at it wrong" meant until I got a Chinese scooter and realized they were referring to the plastic body panels. The Japanese scooters are not great in that respect either but the Chinese take it to a whole new level!
100% on the zip ties. I always carry several different sizes. 

Maxtera,
If your body part is broken where it does not show, it can be easily glued back together. Use this:


All painted scooter Tupperware is made from ABS plastic. This cement will make the break actually stronger then the original plastic. You may want to experiment with it on your old part so you will then have a spare.

Maxtera,
With the stock variator face you are probably not compressing it all the way so your top speed will be lower. The other problem with the stock face is the short ramps will cause the variator to compress prematurely which won't allow the engine to get to its maximum power. That's probably why it seems slower than your other scooter. Replace the face with a big ruckus face 22130-KFG-640 $32.28 on Partzilla. With your 21 gram rollers, you should still accelerate and get to your original 80MPH top speed.