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Post by scoot315 on Mar 9, 2013 18:39:32 GMT -5
Battery is a brand new 12v, 9AH battery. One thing that I noticed is that there is only 3 wires that appear to come from the the engine. One's blue/white, one white and the other yellow I believe.
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 9, 2013 18:00:18 GMT -5
Tried googling this most of the afternoon without much luck. Basically if I have enough AC voltage at the CDI, and the battery is still not charging, must be the regulator/rectifier?
Measuring the battery voltage while the scoot is running and it is not going up as I rev it.
Need to measure the voltage off the stator first, but wanted to see if my logic of thinking was correct?
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 6, 2013 21:13:35 GMT -5
UPDATE:
So I picked up a new battery today and a couple of mini blade 10 Amp fuses. Hooked everything up and turned the key on and the lights came on! Must have been a bad fuse, replaced it prior but who knows. Checked to make sure it was getting spark and it is. All is looking good.
What size fuse should be in here? I just guess at 10A. Also when I re-did the test of the key switch, went from the 2 plug green wire to the positive side of battery and got 12V+ with and without the key on... Contradicts my previous testing. Ideas?
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 5, 2013 13:54:15 GMT -5
I'll try to get the battery charged up.. Older battery so we'll see how this goes. Before it didn't want to hold much of a charge. Need to get a new one, the battery is a XTAX7A-BS. You guys have any recommendations for this if I can't get it charged?
Plan tonight is to check out the kill switch, as I think I have determined the key switch to be good.
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 4, 2013 22:48:34 GMT -5
JR how should I go about doing this? Shouldn't the same procedure be done, but with the black wire from the 2 pin plug
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 4, 2013 22:18:30 GMT -5
I didn't try voltage, just continuity. I can try that as well. Need to charge up the battery, although does it need to be 12v, it should measure simply battery voltage right?
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 4, 2013 19:11:05 GMT -5
I should also note when I was checking the key switch for continuity I checked the kill switch too with the key in the on position and it didn't affect the continuity between these two, which logically I would think it should/would.
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 4, 2013 19:08:42 GMT -5
Just got home and went to check out the kill switch/key switch. Hooked up the multimeter to the the green wire in the 2 wire connector in the cdi and the opposite end to the positive cable of the battery. With the key switch off, engine run switch to run, the multimeter reads "O/L" essentially no continuity between these. When the key is on, we get a small amount of resistance, indicating continuity. I believe this is right.
JR I followed that green wire on the ignition coil and that goes presumably into the middle row of pins, the green one specifically in the cdi. I checked the continuity of that, and it had continuity between that green w/spade connector and the middle green pin on the cdi.
What should I be checking next?
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 4, 2013 13:42:32 GMT -5
JR,
Great detailed info. I'll bring one of our better multimeters home tonight and check this out. I did the spade connectors, we use this in our test lab and connections that were on there were bad or going to be bad shortly. You said that the killswitch wire being black/white stripe there, and only black at the CDI could be a wiring fault as well, or at least that's how I interpreted that. Does that make sense?
Just so I have this right, tv/JR I want to go from the green wire (killswitch) to the battery positive while have the key on and killswitch in "run" as well correct? And then for checking the pulse coming from the magneto, I want to tap from the black in the 2 pin CDI to ground and see what kinda voltage I am getting correct?
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 3, 2013 21:56:17 GMT -5
pickup Attachments:
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 3, 2013 21:55:43 GMT -5
Can't get the photobucket img links to work. Not sure what I am doing wrong here, it works on every other forum tvnacman the battery was dying as it didn't hold much of a charge anymore and then I thought I could use my car as a large battery to keep trying to get it to come to life. Hooked some jumper cables up and it cranked over a couple more times and it made a pop sound. Prior to that I had spark and it turned over. After this pop there was no spark and wouldn't turn over with the jumpers anymore. Checked the fuse, looked ok, thought I checked the resistance of it. Anyways, changed to a blade type fuse and still no spark. Tomorrow I am gonna go through the no spark link on scootdawg forum and get back with some values. Attachments:
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 3, 2013 21:26:48 GMT -5
No I didn't put them on backwards. I got it to turn over a few times when I tried, but then something made a pop sound and then nothing. Here are some of the pics for you guys. Green and black in the middle go to the ignition coil. Blue goes to the pickup on the magneto. Green and black in the two plug appear to be going to the kill switch, although the black on the kill switch is black with white stripe and in the cdi it isn't.   For some reason photobucket doesn't show the thumbnail but click on it and you'll see them. |
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 3, 2013 20:20:54 GMT -5
Ran before according to my buddy. Said it had been sitting for awhile and battery was dead and the throttle twisted hard.
I cleaned the carb, replaced the throttle cable and tried firing it back up.
I'm gonna follow this again and check out voltage's and trace the wires for you guys tomorrow. We'll go from there, but I know before I tried "jumping" it, the scooter would turn over with the battery. After the jump, no turning over at all. Had to try and kick it, but there was no spark
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 3, 2013 18:37:23 GMT -5
Ok so I didn't touch anything prior to it popping. That is how I got it. You guys are thinking the two wire plug is the wrong way? I can trace the wires for you guys and explain to where they go. Looking for replacements as I have to assume either the cdi or R/R is bad. Wiring was this way before I got it.
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 3, 2013 14:43:23 GMT -5
and this one. Attachments:
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