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Post by JerryScript on Jun 10, 2016 13:16:31 GMT -5
If it starts cold on electric, and hot on kickstart, it's most likely valves out of adjustment, but could be a loose connection or thermal short. Valves would be my first check.
As for loose connections, I once had a plug boot that became loose (never buy those "performance" coils, they have a spring clip inside that can come out without noticing), and it would start with the kickstart, but not electric. I can only assume that the kicking moved the scooter enough to jostle it into connecting. It would occasionally sputter at high speeds, which had me chasing fuel issues for two weeks till I finally discovered it was the boot by swapping in my old stock one.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 8, 2016 20:08:13 GMT -5
Good for you! The Honda PCX is one of the most popular and well designed rides around. Together with the fact you sound like a smart (safe) rider, I expect you'll have many miles and lots of smiles, good luck!
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 8, 2016 4:06:19 GMT -5
I'm trying to decide on my intake and exhaust system. I would like to have a custom wide open header built, but I don't want to change the exhaust itself, it's well designed for this scooter.
The stock air filter is a beastly 6" diameter by 9" long metal cylinder holding a cylindrical fan fold air filter. It's huge, and together with the battery being under the seat, there is only a 4" x 9" x 6" storage space, just holds my wrenches and drivers, the socket set I have to carry in the trunk. I would love to switch to a cold air intake with a long neck and uni style filter, and build an under-seat storage basket in the freed up space.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 7, 2016 23:53:40 GMT -5
I checked out the stator wires...I was getting a reading from the black/red wire but not from the blue/white wire so that tells me that it's a bad pick-up coil. Can someone else confirm that? Also...can someone explain to me the difference between AC and DC volts? How is it that an electrical system can have both types of readings? Thanks in advance. I always appreciate the education. J-Ro The stator puts out AC voltage, which is then rectified to DC voltage by the R/R (regulator/rectifier). The CDI can be either AC or DC, best to post a pic of yours here so someone can confirm which you have. Hopefully JoeyBee (that's his video you posted) and tvnacman (a CDI expert and trusted vendor) or some others can answer your wiring questions, I'm not as familiar with the exact wiring schemes as they are. |
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 7, 2016 19:53:06 GMT -5
I'm on the same boat, got the Taida 61mm plus a NCY big port head, looking forward for your results, I would like to compare the difference between 16" wheels vs 12". I'm not sure if they make a big valve head for the BN157QMJ-3, I have seen a 4 valve head, but from what I've read in various forums, the 4 valve heads are not as good as a 2 big valve head, especially if ported. I'm keeping my eyes open! Did you stick with the stock carb, and/or did you have to upjet? I would like to get a couple of jets to have on hand, just in case. |
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 7, 2016 16:35:57 GMT -5
Since I recently had to replace my head due to blowing out the spark plug, I decided to finally install a BBK in my SSR Pacifica 150cc. I've ordered the 61mm Taida drop in kit that requires no case boring, which will bring me up to just under 170cc with the stock crank. Looking forward to getting it installed, will post details here.
For comparison, I currently can reach 70mph on flat highway with no head wind, at just over 7000rpms, at WOT of course. I'm hoping to be able to get a similar top end, but have just a bit more throttle response for times when I need to be able to get out of the way.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 7, 2016 2:33:50 GMT -5
Welcome to the boards! Before you start throwing money away on parts you may not need to replace, check them to see if they are working. Here is one section of our video library that may help, there are others more specific as you go along: itistheride.boards.net/board/65/electricalIt only takes 5 minutes to check the entire system, 10-15 minutes the first time since you will be hunting for the proper points to place your meter's probes. |
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 4, 2016 11:52:14 GMT -5
Sorry, I don't believe we have many if any members who own that model. It's very easy to trace wires with a multi meter or test light.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 2, 2016 12:28:16 GMT -5
Yep, thanks for catching the typo, edited above to fix.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 1, 2016 21:44:59 GMT -5
Set both to .004"-.005", some set the exhaust on step above the intake.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 1, 2016 21:43:16 GMT -5
Your English is very good. My French is Tre repugnant. We will work through any language issues, all we care about here is riding and smiling!
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 1, 2016 9:20:34 GMT -5
Welcome to the board!
For problems so early in the acceleration curve, first try putting more bend in the accelerator pump spring (if you have one), they often get bent out when handling the carb during cleaning. If that doesn't fix the problem, check your diaphragm for tears, and if the needle is adjustable, raise it by lowering the clip or adding a washer.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 1, 2016 9:16:38 GMT -5
Most likely the jet that comes with the 19mm will be fine. If not, your best bet is to get a jet kit, they can be found relatively cheap with a quick google search. Much better than the frustration of returning to the store or re-ordering different sizes till one works.
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Post by JerryScript on May 31, 2016 20:29:20 GMT -5
Since you are mechanically adept, a Chinese scooter can be a fine choice. My SSR Pacifica has 7600 miles over 18 months, and I just had my first break down, blew the spark plug out. Replacement head was $60 and head gasket $10, and a couple of hours of my time, I purchased the scooter for $1400, and the only other things I've had to replace are a turn signal relay and the front brake master cylinder for a total spent including taxes and insurance of less than $2000, so I have saved a lot of money in total costs over a Taiwanese or Japanese brand over a year and a half of riding it. If I didn't have the ability to do this repair on my own, then the price difference may have been made up by the costs of fixing it at a shop.
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Post by JerryScript on May 31, 2016 20:07:04 GMT -5
Good Info Buyer beware of the NCY drop in 61mm kit, i dunno if there all that way but Mine is. I have one, and they cut the Skirt off the Piston to clear a stroker application. This Piston is Not usable. unreal they did this NCY piston is on right. Taida 61mm on left with skirt in tact showing the chopped off area in Red  Thanks for the heads up, that's a pretty short skirt, I wouldn't even want it on a stroker, clamshell would be much better! With that little bit of info, I'm most likely going to get the Taida from Dan. With the type of riding I do, 65-70mph on freeway for about 5 miles each way to work, never passing 7500rpms, would you suggest the ceramic or the forged? |
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