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Post by superonionknight12 on Sept 30, 2013 12:13:26 GMT -5
Thank you both for your responses. I'm not familiar with electrical terminology, but with a little help from google and my eyesight, I believe I have banana plug type connections. I also remember there being a tiny electrical wiring isle at Walmart that I'll check out while bringing the integrated turn signal. Here are photos of my connector/connections if I'm wrong. s876.photobucket.com/user/rtkrupka/slideshow/Scooter%20WiringI'll make a quick trip to Walmart and check it out to see if there are extensions.
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Post by superonionknight12 on Sept 26, 2013 20:18:58 GMT -5
I purchased a set of 8mm mirrors that have integrated turn signals in them. My scooter's wiring harness has two connections (blue, orange, and then green for ground) to the turn signals, but the wiring from the mirrors to my connectors is too short. Is there any wiring extension I could purchase that any one knows about? I would prefer to not cut wires if that's possible. If not, I do have two extra stand alone turn signals, but I was having trouble mounting them on my scooter. The mounting of the mirrors seems stable enough; just the wiring is giving me the issues.
150cc GY6 air-cooled 4-stroke
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Post by superonionknight12 on Sept 16, 2013 19:18:14 GMT -5
Thank you for your reply jerryscript. I researched some videos, and it doesn't seem too hard to take off the belt and put it back on for testing. That will be something I will do tomorrow more than likely. Today I started up the engine, had same symptoms, but noticed I was having popping from the exhaust after releasing the throttle after hard acceleration. Another aspect that I have seen but never really thought of is that my vacuum lines are stained, with what I think is gasoline (plus they smell a bit like that as well). I'm adding pictures of the vacuum lines, but I'm thinking that maybe the petcock is slightly leaking into the vacuum lines so that at cold start, it's not getting the proper amount of fuel - too lean. I could be wrong, but I thought I'd share that before any more intensive troubleshooting continues. s876.photobucket.com/user/rtkrupka/slideshow/Scooter%20Restoration
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Post by superonionknight12 on Sept 15, 2013 15:54:08 GMT -5
I haven't gotten a chance to deal with the kickstarter since I've been primarily trying to rectify this cold start issue. I did some research on the operation of the autochoke and did some testing on the scooter. I took the autochoke out, took a picture, measured the length of the needle assembly, attached it to carb', started up and let it idle for 5 minutes, babysitting the idle when needed, and measured the length of the needle assembly afterwards. The autochoke seems to be fine from my test. The initial length was 1.8cm and afterwards was 2.1cm, and I updated the photobucket to show the results. I was using this video as a helpful guide on what the operation should be: s876.photobucket.com/user/rtkrupka/slideshow/Scooter%20RestorationIf anyone has any other ideas on what I could troubleshoot, I would be appreciative.
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Post by superonionknight12 on Sept 15, 2013 14:15:12 GMT -5
I got the new NGK spark plug boot, screwed it on to the ignition coil, and fired it up. It's still having the same issue with the idle when cold on both auto chokes that I have. I did play around with the choke unplugged and noticed that when I fully put in the needle, the rpms decreased and then when I slowly take it out, the rpms increase. I can even get it to 3k rpms if I position the needle in a particular way. The needle on both autochokes are extended out as far as possible on both to start. I do notice that both autochokes do get hot so I would think that power is being supplied to them through the electrical connection.
EDIT: After looking through several videos, my auto chokes are extended manually as much as possible from start, but it seems that when the wax expands, that will push out the needle even more so these may be fine. I'm testing some more.
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Post by superonionknight12 on Sept 11, 2013 12:46:56 GMT -5
I'm still waiting on the spark plug boot to come in the mail, but in the meantime, I put some RTV sealant on the airbox where the crack was. I don't think the crack was large enough to screw up the fuel/air mix, but just to make sure...
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Post by superonionknight12 on Sept 9, 2013 13:15:14 GMT -5
I decided to keep the PAIR for simplification. For troubleshooting the autochoke, I had an extra one so I unscrewed the metal portion that attaches to the carb' along with the autochoke with the stripped screws, attached the new autochoke, and attempted to start the engine. Lo and behold, it wouldn't start. Everything was connected correctly, but when I took out the spark plug boot, it broke and the contact was still stuck to the spark plug. I'm getting an NGK spark plug boot replacement online. Also, I updated the album on photobucket since I noticed on my airbox that the tube that connects from the carb' to the airbox has a crack in the connection. I'm not sure though if it's large enough to be a problem. If so, how could I fix that? s876.photobucket.com/user/rtkrupka/slideshow/Scooter%20Restoration
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Post by superonionknight12 on Sept 8, 2013 19:38:27 GMT -5
I was trying to follow instructions via this video for the PAIR removal, but one of the bolts on the underside broke while trying to remove so I'm trying to find an alternative, like capping the barb or hose.
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Post by superonionknight12 on Sept 8, 2013 19:18:59 GMT -5
Thank you for your response pmatulew. I think with that video, I may be able to get it connected. Since my last response, I opened up the CVT cover and noticed that a piece of the kick starter spindle shaft was in there. From what I looked up, it seems to be called a "bushing." The kick idler gear was taken off as well. In regards to the cover, that's what I was thinking. I decided to scrap it since it was a mess anyways and doesn't seem to serve any useful purpose.
I'll get some vice grips tomorrow, inspect the auto-choke, and update.
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Post by superonionknight12 on Sept 8, 2013 17:09:20 GMT -5
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Post by superonionknight12 on Sept 8, 2013 14:02:09 GMT -5
Greetings fellow riders. I'm attempting to fix up my scooter that has been in my garage for a while and have a few items that need to get taken care. I've had this 150cc air-cooled, GY6 scooter for about a year and a half with about 2800 miles and would like to either let my brother have it or sell it since I now have a Honda Rebel 250 which I adore. To give a bit of helpful history, I had an older carb' that got dirty, made the scooter run poorly, and I replaced that carb' in Feb. to a new one with an accessible pilot screw. When I put on the new carb', the scoot' was running like a dream, but then a week later I hit a major speed bump and lost power. The scooter would start but if I gave it gas, it would immediately die. I couldn't get it to work so I drained the gas out of the tank and carb' and stored the scoot' in the garage. Fast forward several months later and I've been making great progress. I never actually figured out what happened when I hit the speed bump, but I figure a vacuum came loose. The scooter starts very quickly, revs with no backfire or pops from exhaust, and electrical functionality is there. I just have a few issues and with some help I think I can get this scoot' to tip top shape. 1.) First issue is that though the scoot' starts up with no issues, I have to babysit the throttle for about 30-45 seconds or else it doesn't want to idle. Once it warms up, it's perfect and will idle consistently for an indefinite amount of time. I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake manifold and vacuum lines, but there was no change in rpms so I'm thinking no leaks. My valves are set to .004" intake and .004" exhaust (I use the "close one rocker arm, adjust the other method" instead of the T-mark alignment). The fuel/air mixture screw is set to all the way in and 2.5 turns out (maybe 2.25). My idle screw is set so that when the scoot is warmed up, it idles at roughly 1700rpms. My paper stock air filter looks clean. My fuel enricher / auto-choke's screws that hold it to the carb are stripped so I'll need to get some good vice grips to get those out before I can test that. Is there anything else I should worry about, like the vacuum petcock? 2.) I am attempting to remove the PAIR system on my scooter. It doesn't connect to the gas tank at all, only the right barb of the intake manifold (which I switched intake manifolds so my current one only has the left one for vacuum), the bottom larger barb of the valve cover, and an extra hose that doesn't go to anything. I have read a thread about removing the U-shaped add-on on the valve cover, having a metal plate fabrication, and working it that way, but could I just keep the hose connected on the bottom of the valve cover, zip tie it away towards the back of the scoot, and/or plug it instead? 3.) And finally, my kickstarter has never worked regardless of tips I've looked up or any methods I've enacted. I took off the CVT cover, the kick start lever, and noticed my kick starter spindle shaft was very loose and when I attempted to use it, it came off. I have the pieces and nothing looks to be broken. I have the gear at the end, then spring, the shaft, and of course the lever. Is there any good resource for assembling this correctly and getting it to work? Also when I removed the CVT cover, there was a gasket-like grey paper covering the corners of the CVT cover, but it easily came off. Is there some adhesive to get that back on there? I appreciate any help whatsoever.
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