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Post by onewheeldrive on May 20, 2015 17:18:02 GMT -5
Pretty sure it's a 2-stroke, it doesn't have valves to adjust.
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 20, 2015 0:26:08 GMT -5
Would a can of raid even kill that thing? I wouldn't want to be the one to find out, lol!
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 19, 2015 22:59:21 GMT -5
It's a night and day difference with a bbk on these smaller engines-- way better accelleration and hill climbing is much better. Your overall average speed from point A to point B will be much better.
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 19, 2015 22:50:58 GMT -5
its a basic pump design, when I do rebuilds I prime the pump all the way to the valve's. I don't check for squirting remember I'm priming by hand. John Yeah they are simple. I just want to see one cut open--- I'm a nerd like that! |
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 19, 2015 22:40:22 GMT -5
Shrill Voice
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 19, 2015 4:32:51 GMT -5
The arrow goes "up", for anyone wondering about the oil pump installation.
Hopefully the new pump works. I can't help but think that even with the scoot on its side running for 30 seconds, the pump would still be coated in oil, regardless if it was pumping oil or not. Maybe that's all it takes, and if so, that's not very comforting-- then again, IIRC, you had about 20k on it?
Exactly what would fail in the pump? I don't think I've ever seen the inside(s).
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 18, 2015 3:12:26 GMT -5
If you add 2 base gaskets (total) the compression changes a bit-- from what I've read it's been about 10-20psi less. Think I read one that had about 30psi less.
Do you agree with that?
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 17, 2015 14:16:57 GMT -5
Most likely not all the same, but probably pretty close.
The bbk alone increases the compression, especially with the bigger bores on a stock head-- to the point to where some people add 2 gaskets. Even though the gaskets are thin, it definitely makes a difference.
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 17, 2015 13:18:35 GMT -5
What gears are you thinking?
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 17, 2015 13:10:19 GMT -5
Well it's a good thing it didn't electric start, imo. With a 50mm and no base gasket, your engine probably would have been toast in about 500 miles, lol. So consider it a blessing.
The compression reading on that thing would have to be dangerously high.
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 14, 2015 4:55:38 GMT -5
The variator I ordered comes with 6.5g rollers. I ordered 7g too, which I've been happy with. I'm sorta excited to try the 6.5g with the setup I have now. I used that weight for quite awhile back when I first got my scoot. It was my go-to weight.
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 14, 2015 2:18:53 GMT -5
If you don't get sliders, why not just get 11.5g rollers? With 12g you are already pushing 8,000 downhill and not quite 7500 on flats. From what you've stated, 11.5g will push you over 8,000 downhill and should easily reach 7500 on flats. You could then try mixing the 11.5g and 12g weights, if you ever feel you need to "back off" the throttle without literally doing that. Unless you want to go over 8,000rpm.
Remember the rpms will slowly rise over time as the belt wears-- if your belt is brand new those 12g might not be so bad after putting some decent miles on it.
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 14, 2015 0:22:31 GMT -5
They do sell 11.5 dr pulley rollers or sliders. I just don't understand why 1 gram would make my rpm climb by 1k? Do 11 gram slider vs 11 gram roller yield same rpm? Or slider cause higher rpm? I was just researching this! I havent used sliders in a few years and can't remember. I found a few people said they had higher cruising rpms. Pretty sure Alleyoop, and a few others, recommended to go up in weight when switching to sliders-- don't hold me to it though, lol. Edit: here's one of the many threads itistheride.boards.net/thread/6816/rollers-slidersEDIT#2: I've read to where people said it didn't make a difference either way, too. Not sure I'm convinced either way. |
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 13, 2015 16:30:22 GMT -5
I wish you luck with work and the scoot! To give you an idea what a rebuild would be:
Top end ($50) your piston and cylinder are going to be scored with a bad crank, especially if you ride it until the wheels fall off.
Crank w/oil seals($50)
Flywheel Puller ($20)
Starter Clutch tool ($20)
Gasket Set ($10)
Starter Gear removal-- needs off the crank to split case, $10(?)
Quart of oil ($4)
Possibly oil pump ($15) as I've seen that it's recommended to replace when replacing crank
So you'd be looking at close to $160-$200, AFTER shipping, give or take depending on if you have a flywheel puller and starter clutch tool (then subtract $40 or so). This is just a basic idea of what it'd be. Depending on the shape of your clutch, variator, etc, it may be in your best interest to buy a new engine--- $330-$400.
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i give up
by: onewheeldrive - May 13, 2015 0:49:17 GMT -5
Post by onewheeldrive on May 13, 2015 0:49:17 GMT -5
It'll go out any day now. Surprised you got 500km out of it, but in my experiences the rod bearings went quicker than the side bearings once symptoms started. man, don't tell me that. i don't have the money to mess with the crank. i need it to last a few months. i had the cylinder off last week, the rod seems fine. no movement in & out. Well I'll try and be positive and say that maybe the 150cc cranks can handle a bit more abuse after a bearing begins to fail? A few months is a LONG time, though, especially after 500km or so on it already. Not good for the top end either. I didn't mean to make you worry, just have a "plan b" in case you get stranded----- once that crank goes out completely you won't be able to "limp" home. |
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