New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 24, 2013 10:26:44 GMT -5
|
Post by mojo89 on Dec 8, 2013 16:52:57 GMT -5
So I got my bike running more smoothly than it was brand new, as expected for paying that much for the parts. Having trouble uploading photos, but here are some problems that I encountered and what their solutions were:
1. In order to take apart my rear clutch assembly after I removed it from the bike (using my electric impact wrench), I used a 1 3/4" adjustable wrench. There's a youtube video that shows the technique, basically you put your big ol wrench on the nut that holds the contra spring in place and whack it on the ground while holding the assembly with your hands to loosen it. Hey, it works. Wish I'd gotten a large enough socket so I could use my impact wrench for it though.
2. At first I didn't replace my rear clutch pulleys, because I didn't want to damage anything while attempting to take off the spring seat, but I had to since it ripped my brand new belt to shreds within a mile of running it. Thus I had to buy another new belt and a new stock clutch assembly since my upgrade kit only came with the moving pulley face, no retaining pins or stationary pulley face. Once I got that together it all ran quite well, smooth and quiet.
3. My spring seat was stuck on the back of the moving pulley face due to the grease inside it wearing out, so I couldn't remove it until I pried it off with a few screwdrivers. This exposed the retaining pins, which were so worn down that it allowed a lot of wiggling and was the cause of the rattle that I had been hearing since I replaced my first belt, also the cause of my second and third belts slipping and being shredded.
Altogether, I learned a lot about my bike, and now have a few extra parts and all the tools I need to replace its transmission. And the experience was fun.
SUCCESS!!!!
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 24, 2013 10:26:44 GMT -5
|
Post by mojo89 on Nov 18, 2013 21:32:57 GMT -5
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 24, 2013 10:26:44 GMT -5
|
Post by mojo89 on Nov 17, 2013 21:53:28 GMT -5
 here is the before pic, hope it links correctly. My speedometer reads at about ten mph more than actual when it gets up to 30mph or higher, when it says 45 I'm actually doing 37, when it says 50 I'm doing 40, so I know what you mean. I even replaced the little sensor with the worm gear inside and it still reads that way. Both my contra spring and my actuator springs (is that what they're called?) that hold the arms of the clutch pad in are worn; since it's all worn out, I'm just doing it all at once and seeing how 1500 rpm springs affect my takeoff. I'll use the same weight sliders as the rollers I have now, whatever it happens to be, since it gives plenty of power throughout all rpms (before the parts wore out I was pegging the speedo needle, doing an actual 45-50 mph downhill with the stock parts! Maybe that's why it wore out so quick... for the record, I'm 130 lbs) I've seen scrappy's website, it's basically stock parts, and I actually live fairly close to a physical taotao distribution center that I can buy the same parts at those prices, except for the different weight rollers. I'm going with the more expensive parts because I want to run them harder and replace them less often, that is the hope, please give me a heads up if I'm wrong. Also, I'm replacing my whole variator, clutch pads+bell, and belt, not just the clutch and the bell, and 150 is an average price for the whole kit. I'm doing the air filter while I'm at it, I've done a few other upgrades to the bike already, mostly just replacing stock parts one by one as they rattle to pieces. |
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 24, 2013 10:26:44 GMT -5
|
Post by mojo89 on Nov 17, 2013 13:31:08 GMT -5
10500 km on the bike now, my second (stock) belt just shredded yesterday, but it's ok because I was planning on rebuilding the whole cvt system with performance parts since all the stock parts are worn out to the max. The engine still cranks, starts, and runs great, barring a minor oil leak from the gasket on the rear of the crank case near the oil plug.
Roller weights rattle like crazy when it gets to high rpm's; variator face has a groove in it where the belt sits at high gear, causing it to fail to downshift from time to time; the clutch engages at much too low of an rpm because the pads and springs are worn so badly; combined with the variator problem, this stalls the bike when I come to a stop from top speed (~40 mph) without letting it coast with no throttle for about 20 feet first. It also causes the shift to high gear to occur at about 20 mph instead of 30, robbing me of some vital acceleration and no doubt pissing off a few people on the road. One other symptom is that when idling, the clutch will engage slightly, pulling a little bit and wearing the pads out further.
I'm thinking of purchasing a kevlar belt for 30, an NCY brand cvt kit for about 150, and a small 12v impact wrench so I don't have to use my other tools for things they weren't meant for. Also thinking of some sliding roller weights from Dr. Pulley and some 1500 rpm clutch springs.
I'm posting this for any advice on what to watch out for, what else to check while I'm in there, any tricks or tips about the procedure, and any reviews of products and tools you may have to offer. Also, I will update my progress with pictures and include my own (beginner) review of any products I end up using for everyone's information, since I didn't find any posts yet for this specific project.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 24, 2013 10:26:44 GMT -5
|
Post by mojo89 on Nov 17, 2013 13:03:29 GMT -5
New developements: 10500 km on the bike now, my second belt just shredded yesterday, but it's ok because I was planning on rebuilding the whole cvt system since all the parts are worn out to the max. Variator has a nice groove in it where the belt sits at high gear, causing it to fail to downshift from time to time, thus stalling the bike when I come to a stop. Clutch engages at much too low of an rpm, the pads and springs are worn so bad.
I'm thinking of purchasing an NCY brand cvt kit for about 150 bucks online, along with a small 12v impact wrench so I don't have to use tools for things they weren't meant for. Also thinking of some sliding rollers from Dr. Pulley and some 1500 rpm clutch springs. I'll update as I progress in the project.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 24, 2013 10:26:44 GMT -5
|
Post by mojo89 on Jul 25, 2013 23:29:59 GMT -5
Replaced the belt, rollers are a bit worn but still good, clutch shoes are in need of replacement soon but not horrible. The rattle doesn't start until 50 mph now(my speedometer does read a bit higher than actual speed), and I try not to go that fast anyway. My old belt seems to have been the culprit, it was a couple mm's narrower than the new one, and had a good size chunk missing. Don't know how I missed it the first time I checked.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 24, 2013 10:26:44 GMT -5
|
Post by mojo89 on Jul 24, 2013 13:14:08 GMT -5
nope, valves are at .052mm .052mm as of yesterday. Checked them when I heard the tapping noise.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 24, 2013 10:26:44 GMT -5
|
Post by mojo89 on Jul 24, 2013 11:28:23 GMT -5
-------The story:
While accelerating downhill, I reached about 40 mph. Something in the engine began rattling suddenly and slowed me down to 35 (while still going downhill). I was at 5500 km at the time. Since then, whether I'm on hills or flat ground, it doesn't rattle until I'm going at least 35, and the engine will not rev any higher once the rattling starts. Might be of note that 30 is the speed where it starts revving into higher rpms.
-------Bike's history:
I bought it brand new and rode it daily for 5 months, about 1000 km per month. Two or three times a week I ride 20 miles in 45 minutes at about 40 mph cruising speed (I know I shouldn't be giving it full throttle that long) plus daily around town riding in traffic.
I noticed the same rattling noise around 4500 km, it was softer and only started when I was going around 45 mph. I only went that fast down hills; for maybe 30 seconds at a time, I'd be revving pretty high and it would make that rattling/tapping noise. This was at full throttle.
All stock parts, regular maintenance performed religiously (oil changes, valve adjustments)
-----------What I've done so far:
Replaced the muffler, the mounting bracket was cracked, I thought it might have been rattling, but this did not fix it. Opened my cvt cover to inspect parts, nothing looked worn or out of place, but I didn't take off anything under the cvt cover except the overrunning clutch which was loose. I'm assuming it is held in place by the cover itself. During the subsequent ride after putting the cover back on, the rattling didn't start until 45 mph instead of 40, but still will not rev higher once the rattling starts. Hard to say where the sound is coming from, but if I had to guess sounds like it comes from the cvt case towards the front.
Any ideas?
|
|
