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Post by ronnoc923 on Aug 19, 2013 20:38:02 GMT -5
I was looking around trying to figure it out and I just noticed that the Piston Rings were pretty much melted onto the piston itself about half of it is loose and the other is stuck to the piston. I am guessing that is where my extra compression is going off to.
So my new question is what should I do to unstick the rings from the piston without breaking any of the rings. Just to be clear its more like the ring is kind of welded but not 100% like on the very end of each ring it seems as if it is welded because it looks as if it is part of the piston itself but that and back it looks like I might be able to remove it somehow.
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Post by ronnoc923 on Aug 19, 2013 15:47:34 GMT -5
I have a 50cc taotao and I have had overheating issues. After my most recent belt broke and I bought a new belt my speed had decreased to about 10 mph and over heating is a lot more faster. I was trying to look around and I took off my air filter and when I tried driving with it off it would try to stall when I gave it full gas and it seemed like it was trying to suck in to much air.
I decided that I would try taking off my exhaust pipe and see what would happen maybe something would have clogged it up or something and after running it for about 10 sec's with it off something happened and now sounds like a riding lawnmower or something.
I have gotten a new clutch, clutch springs, torque springs, Variator, variator weights, belt "which is a Bando belt made of aramid cord" I checked the transmission oil and area and that seems to not be overheating.
I am not sure if the overheating problem is coming from inside of the CVT area like maybe I need a new variator fan?? Or if its deeper inside of the engine itself like something ended up blowing or broke off.
Any suggestions would be great.
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Post by ronnoc923 on Aug 16, 2013 20:52:45 GMT -5
At which level does a tomos moped 50cc need to start at? At the moment I am looking at 60-70 psi.
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Post by ronnoc923 on Aug 8, 2013 23:06:21 GMT -5
My Kevlar belt just broke on it. Thought those were suppose to be indestructible  Just bought a new Bando Performance drive belt thats made of aramid cord. I also bought a new variator is there anything else that could be the cause for the excess heat? |
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Post by ronnoc923 on Aug 8, 2013 22:51:14 GMT -5
Do you guys think it would be possible to change a oil mix engine into a oil injection engine? If so what do you think it would require? Could I just get a seat with the oil tank inside of it to lead down into the carburetor? Or do I need to have some kind of vacuum system to suck only a certain amount of oil to the carburetor?
Whats everyone's thoughts on this?
I have a 1987 Tomos A3 Bullet TT
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Post by ronnoc923 on Aug 7, 2013 9:23:25 GMT -5
I dont think it is the kevlar belt because when I bought a regular belt because I thought that was the issue for the overheating after driving for about 5 minutes the belt basically exploded and inside of the cvt area it was extremely hot. Hot enough that it actually started to melt the variator fan a bit. The air filter on the cvt is just a little screen designed to keep out any small rocks or anything I guess. Air flow seems fine though from what I can see.
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Post by ronnoc923 on Aug 6, 2013 21:29:00 GMT -5
Also the squeaking noise was coming from the wheels washers had to relub it and it stopped.
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Post by ronnoc923 on Aug 6, 2013 21:24:39 GMT -5
Ok so now this is what I have collected from my information.
I bought a new clutch and springs plus belt to see if it would help with the over heating and slipping. After all of that nothing changed I saw a slight change but nothing really. I figured out that the Clutch pulley was a little jammed or rusted so I bought the lubricant for my pulley. When I took it off and tested it the clutch pulley would be hard to move up and down as if it were rusted. After I sprayed the lubricant it started to move up and down very easily. So I put it all together again and it was working like new I saw instantly that the take off speed and top speeds had increased to normal and extra because of the new springs and clutch. After 2 days of driving I noticed that it started to slow down a bit and I felt the clutch starting to slip a bit. Also I am still having a over heating problem.
I decided to put my old clutch back on that I thought was bad because of the pads were slipping and I resprayed the lubricant and I had no problem with my clutch at all and I drove around for a good bit, had great speeds once again.
So from everything that I am collecting so far I think that the stock lubricant that was applied to the clutch pulley had burned off from the over heating. So this brings me back to the main question. What can I do to fix this over heating issue?
New variator fan or new variator all together? Maybe it has something to do with the inner engine?
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Post by ronnoc923 on Jul 31, 2013 22:03:53 GMT -5
Should I just use regular oil like engine oil or gear oil to lub it or should it be something specific?
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Post by ronnoc923 on Jul 31, 2013 21:39:56 GMT -5
Do you think though if I was to clean it up and lub it that it might work? Because I wanna see that is the problem instead of having to spend another $40 and that not be the problem.
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Post by ronnoc923 on Jul 31, 2013 21:10:20 GMT -5
After messing around with it a bit more I found out some things. I put the old torque spring back in and I noticed that my wheel started to move after about 10 to 15% throttle. I am thinking that either the new spring "1.5k" is to strong for my clutch because when I have it on it is extremely hard to pull the clutch back so I could get the belt on, or that the area under the clutch is really rusted so it is to hard for it to move into the right spot to engage the gear "since I have to pull the throttle to about 25% for it to engage so my wheel moves".
Im thinking that if it is rust is there something I could do to lubricate and clean the area so it can move more freely?
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Post by ronnoc923 on Jul 31, 2013 18:23:14 GMT -5
[replyingto=scoots]scoots[/replyingto]I already got a new belt which is Kevlar. And what would you recommend I do if its the variator that is warpped? Just buy a new variator I guess?
I will probably go ahead and order a new clutch bell if it isn't working by friday.
Do you think that maybe the springs are still new so they have to be broken in so they wont stick or something though?
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Post by ronnoc923 on Jul 31, 2013 16:48:03 GMT -5
I have been having trouble with my CVT area because it was overheating a lot. My guess and observation was that maybe the Clutch wasn't catching. So I tried getting break cleaner and sand paper and tried cleaning the pads but that didn't work so I bought a new High performance clutch with with 2k clutch springs and 1.5k Torque Spring.
Now when I start it up and try going I have to pull the throttle about half way for it to start moving and it rev's pretty high for it to slowly start moving. It is still overheating from what I can see. Do you think that maybe the clutch is to small for the clutch bell or that I have to break in the clutch so it will start catching good?
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Post by ronnoc923 on Jul 28, 2013 0:07:35 GMT -5
Ive got about 5000 miles on it but I checked the variator and it seems to look fine and the weights do to just a little burntish. Ill see about getting a new clutch then. Hopefully that fixes it. Do you think I should just get a new clutch or the clutch and new springs? Trying to save as much money as I can. ;p
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Post by ronnoc923 on Jul 27, 2013 23:21:40 GMT -5
I cleaned up my clutch and used brake cleaner on the pads and used sand paper just a little bit to clean it up but my CVT is still over heating and it seems to be making a squeaking noise around 10 to 20 mph.
Also when I am driving for about 10 min's it really seems to start slipping a lot so i can hear my engine or gears revving but I start slowing down so to avoid it overheating I losen up on the throttle until im about 20% throttle until I have to pull over for a min then get going again.
Any suggestions would be great.
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