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Post by wilds on Nov 6, 2013 0:34:32 GMT -5
It could be and leak between the carb and the cylinder (easy to check with starter fluid), debris in the carb, main jet a bit to small. I would also re-check the valve setting...
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Post by wilds on Nov 2, 2013 8:13:37 GMT -5
Me   |
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Post by wilds on Nov 2, 2013 4:06:58 GMT -5
These are the cc I get when I calculate with a original storke of 57,8mm:
60mm cylinder with original crank: 163cc
60mm cylinder with 6mm stroker crank: 180cc
61mm cylinder with original crank: 168cc
61mm cylinder with 6mm stroker crank: 186cc
62mm cylinder with original crank: 174cc
62mm cylinder with 6mm stroker crank: 192cc
63mm cylinder with original crank: 180cc
63mm cylinder with 6mm stroker crank: 198cc
I also see in your profile that you already have a 60mm cylinder mounted.
If you would put the 6mm stroker crank on your engine as it is you would get 180cc.
And if you buy a 61mm kit it would only give you 6cc more, is it worth the money?
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Post by wilds on Nov 1, 2013 0:56:56 GMT -5
My case is 62.5mm will be a very small amount to remove if any Great, then there want be any major problems fitting the cylinder. Just remember to grind down a little material for the stroker crank. |
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Post by wilds on Oct 31, 2013 12:59:17 GMT -5
Just gonna do the taida 61mm forged kit and see how it does I think you will need to bore the case anyway  The 61mm Taida kit has an outer diameter of 62,7mm. All of the cases with 54mm stud spacing I've tried is just a fraction over 61mm... Before you buy anything I would suggest that you messure your engine case. Just so you know if you need to bore the engine case or not and what parts to buy... |
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Post by wilds on Oct 30, 2013 8:04:00 GMT -5
and get an fuel injection.
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Post by wilds on Oct 30, 2013 2:18:36 GMT -5
Figured it would be fairly simple to bore with the crank out and case split easy clean up too If you plan on a 180cc cylinder I believe the outer diameter of the sleeve is 65,1mm. That will not leave much material to the cylinder bolts and the wall between the cylinder and cam chain. Here's a picture on how much material there will be left after it's bored out.  You also need to remove some material on the right engine case for the crank. On this picture you also see how deep you have to bore into the case...  After you have bored out the case, there is a risk that the oil passage in the block isn't properly aligned with the oil passage in the cylinder. Also check so the holes in the gasket aligns.   |
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Post by wilds on Oct 22, 2013 23:28:32 GMT -5
Yeah, that sounds like my seller too. Every time something goes wrong on my scooter I told him about it and they send me free parts :-) Did you buy your scooter from Powersports Max? I'm really sorry about that case though. Only 900 miles and it's already cracked No, I didn't buy it at Powersports Max... I live in Sweden!  |
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Post by wilds on Oct 22, 2013 0:03:04 GMT -5
The seller has been really good before about warranty but the warranty on the crank is no longer valid. It would also be a bit difficult for me to prove that there were material errors. You know, sometimes s**t happens. |
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Post by wilds on Oct 21, 2013 23:45:37 GMT -5
How did you blow and crack the engine? Were you just riding extremely hard on it, or was it a large bump? What is the cause of that cracked engine? I am very curious to know. I wasn't pushing the engine that hard and there wasn't any bump or anything. I suspect that there was some material defects in the connecting rod and that it was only a matter of time until it would brake... The reason for the cracked engine case is that the crank is still spinning after it broke and since the connecting rod isn't attached to the piston it smashes into the engine case. |
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Post by wilds on Oct 21, 2013 23:30:33 GMT -5
How many miles on the stroker? About 900 miles |
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Post by wilds on Oct 19, 2013 12:17:38 GMT -5
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Post by wilds on Oct 19, 2013 11:47:36 GMT -5
Well the reson I don't tend to ask so much for help is that I know quite a bit about engines... I used to play with V8s a lot when I was "young", a GY6 engine is much easier to work with but a lot harder to tune than a V8. The tune effects shows a lot better on a V8... I would suspect that reson for the crank to brake down was some kind of material defects. It snapped right off at the red mark.  I was doing about 68 mph when it broke down. Luckily nothing else happened, I just rolled to a complete stop and pushed it off the road. After work I rented a trailer and got it back home and saw the damage. |
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Post by wilds on Oct 19, 2013 1:24:21 GMT -5
W ow - that doesnt make my engine look so bad... im sorry for you. You must be gutted. Wanna sell your engine shroud to a fellow broken engine owner?? There's nothing left that can be used on that engine. I'm gonna drop at the dump. It was a lot of money that went up in smoke there... At least I know how far I can take a 125 cc engine case |
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Post by wilds on Oct 18, 2013 15:19:37 GMT -5
The only thing I could keep was the variator, flywheel, stator and the cylinder head. The rest went into the bin. I don't think the 125cc engine cases are built for 183cc with high compression, 30mm intake valve 26 mm exhaust valve heads, fuel injection, a really good exhaust system, tuned for 180 cc.  But it was a fast scooter til it died.  For the next engine I will try to get my hands on a B-case. Those are hard to find here in Sweden. Speaking of exhaust, I developed a really good exhaust with Akunar in Thailand, they even namned the exhaust after my nickname "Wilds" GY6 Wilds EditionHere's a picture of it when it's mounted on the scoot:  Made my own bracket for it  |
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