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Post by rockynv on Nov 19, 2016 9:16:11 GMT -5
Thanks rockynv. I sure hope it works! One can hope however it may still be in your best interests to get a set of feeler gauges and check the valve adjustment yourself. Depending on where it was stored there is also the potential for there to be some rust on the exhaust valve. Was there a lot of water vapor coming out the exhaust when you first got it and what's the condition of the muffler? Bikes stored outside if not done properly tend to end up with a muffler full of water which can mess up the exhaust valve and cylinder especially on a horizontal engine like the 257.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 19, 2016 10:24:00 GMT -5
I just got back from my test ride.
I put 1.7 ounces of the zMAx fuel treatment in 1/2 full gas tank. I let it warm up until the cooling fan came on. I then put 2.4 ounces in my oil. I filled my gas tank with 1 gallon of premium gas.
When I left for my test ride it was just like before. Didn't have enough get up and go to carry me down the street. Died 6-9 times and needed to be restarted. Eventually I could get it to carry me without dying.
I drove it roughly 30 minutes and 10 miles.
As much as I hoped for it I saw no real change in the engine's operation.
What next?
RockyNV do you still think I should get feeler gauges and check the exhaust valve adjustment myself? Are my symptoms those of an exhaust valve not in adjustment? Most of its life it was stored outside in a dry part of Texas under a covered shading in a parking lot . I don't remember water vapor coming out of the exhaust pipe. The muffler seems functional. The center pipe doesn't move at all when I try to move it.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 19, 2016 10:42:04 GMT -5
If it helps to diagnose the issue it has been stored indoors in a warm humid part of Texas for the last year.
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Post by rockynv on Nov 20, 2016 9:35:08 GMT -5
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 20, 2016 10:44:16 GMT -5
Any advice from those who have done this before I start? Are these the best steps to follow? Is there any way remove less stuff (the seat, the covers,....) www.itistheride.com/Help_257cc_valve_adjustment_tutorial.pdfAre theses the correct settings? The intake valve is .004" and the exhaust is .005". Off to harbor freight to buy a feeler gauge and a valve adjustment tool. Just in case the valve adjustment doesn't get my compression up I ordered this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/9803664832/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Hopefully it works as good as the one RockyNV pointed out. It is more money but is in the US and I can have it before the long weekend when I will have lots of time and good weather to work on this.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 20, 2016 19:29:56 GMT -5
So I have followed these instructions up to page 6. www.itistheride.com/Help_257cc_valve_adjustment_tutorial.pdfWhen I line up the mark on the sprocket with the timing chain with the one on the housing at the hole just above the oil plug I can't ever make the triangle on the flywheel line up with the mark on this housing. I have rotated it counter clockwise one revolution 7 times until the marks on the sprocket align again and I can't ever get them to line up in the hole above the oil fill plug. The only two things I can think of trying are: 1) I could line up the marks on the timing chain sprocket then put a plastic zip tie in the spark plug hole and measure the length in the cylinder. Rotate the variator nut one revolution until the marks line up again. Then repeat this several times until I found the one with the shortest measurement or top dead center. 2) I could try to rotate the variator nut a bit at a time until I can find the triangle on the flywheel. Does anyone else have any advice how to solve this?
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Post by rockynv on Nov 22, 2016 9:38:53 GMT -5
Listed as out of stock though so I am not sure how long it will be before you get it. If you can't get the timing marks to line up when the piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke that is a problem. Is it off about one link in the chain? If so then you may need to remove the timing gear and reset it to the correct position as it may have skipped a tooth. The mechanic should have seen this and corrected it when he adjusted the valves knowing he was doing the job due to performance issues. You will need to remove the timing chain tensioner before adjusting the timing and will need to reset the tensioner before reinstalling it. On the feeler gauges I found this $6.99 set at Cycle Gear to be better for bike engines than the HF set. Having 2 Cycle Gear stores close to me makes it easy: www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-feeler-gauge
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 22, 2016 10:20:14 GMT -5
I should have the camera by tomorrow. Maybe I got the last one.
I will go to Cycle Gear and get their feeler gauges since I haven't opened the ones from HF yet I can return them.
This is my first time doing this. What are the steps I need to follow to get the issue with the timing chain correct?
1) Drain oil 2) Remove timing chain cover. 3) Loosen then remove timing chain tensioner 4) Remove timing chain 5) Find top dead center. How? Does having the marker seen in the hole above the oil file plug lined up do this? 6) Set the intake and exhaust valve clearances. Are the correct settings intake valve is .004" and the exhaust is .005"? 7) Put the engine covers back on. 8) Put oil in the engine. 9) Put the spark plug back in 10) Connect the battery 11) Check compression 12) If the compression is good put everything back together. 13) If the compression is bad use the camera to inspect the cylinder/valves through the spark plug hole.
Thanks for everyone's help with this.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 22, 2016 10:30:18 GMT -5
One last question. If the timing chain did jump a cog on the sprocket, what is likely to have caused that and do I need to fix it? For example the tensioner is worn out, the tensioner spring is weak,...
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Post by tortoise on Nov 22, 2016 11:06:20 GMT -5
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 22, 2016 14:24:39 GMT -5
I have a Haynes Scooter manual. While it doesn't have the specific steps for a Linhai 257 cc it does have the steps in general to remove from a 4 stoke scooter engine the cam chain tensioner, the chain and the sprockets and how to reassemble them (sections 2B8 and 2B9). I have scanned them and they are attached as pictures. Can you look them over and confirm that in general these are he steps I need to follow? What do I need to do differently for a Linhai 257 cc? Obviously I wouldn't remove the seals or the sprockets like they suggest, just move the chain 1 sprocket cog. Can I disconnect the chain at the open cover using a connecting link (like a regular chain) and move it one way or the other so I don't need to pull everything apart? Thanks a lot.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 22, 2016 14:30:53 GMT -5
Good one Tortoise! I should phrased that differently.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 23, 2016 12:08:00 GMT -5
Rockynv.
Are these the correct steps?
I have the Cycle gear feeler gauge and the camera should get here tonight.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 23, 2016 21:16:39 GMT -5
Here is the latest. I'd appreciate feedback on if I am thinking about this correctly. I am planning to start this tomorrow morning.
If the chain skipped a tooth on the sprocket it is likely either a problem with the chain tensioner or the chain is stretched.
These are the steps I will follow:
1) Remove the cover over the rocker arm. 2) Feel the chain tension to see if it is loose. 3) Remove the chain tensioner to see if I can see any issues with it. If there are replace the tensioner. If not continue down this list. 4) Loosen the rocker arms so that I can loosen the chain enough to slip in one tooth. (this video is close to the next few steps: 5) Slip the chain one tooth. 6) Tighten the rocker arms lightly. 7) Make sure that the timing marks on the cam sprocket is aligned with the mark on the housing. Check if in the hole above the oil fill plug the triangle mark on the flywheel is aligned with the mark on the housing. If not repeat steps 4 through 7 until both sets of marks are aligned. 8) Tighten the rocker arm bolts to the correct torque. 9) Check the intake valve clearance. If not correct adjust. 10) Check the exhaust valve clearance. If not correct adjust. 11) Put the chain tensioner back on. 12) Put the rocker arm cover back on. 13) Put the cam cover back on. 14) Put the cover on the hole just above the oil fill plug. 15) Use camera to inspect whether internal damage happened due the issue, cylinder, rings,.... 16) Put the compression tester in the spark plug hole. 17) Put the battery back. 18) Test the compression.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 24, 2016 19:18:58 GMT -5
Any words of advice before I turn it over to test the compression? Anything I can do to prevent spaghetti valves I want to.
I pulled the chain tensioner and it looked fine. With the tensioner loose I could move the chain around on the top sprocket. I slide it until marks on the sprocket lined up with the one on the housing at the same time as one in the hole above the oil fill plug were lined up. I rotated the variator nut clockwise to tighten the chain. I put the tensioner back on
I then made sure that the marks on the cam sprocket (top) matched up with the one on the housing at the same time the one on the other slide just above the oil plug was lined up with the one on its housing. I then checked both valves. Exhaust at 0.005 inches and intake at 0.004 inches. With the alignment marks in the correct position both valves were set correctly and did not need to be adjusted.
I then put all the covers back on the engine.
I did not have time to take pictures inside the cylinder. The camera arrived, but I wasn't able to get it working yet.
What should I double check before trying a compression test?
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