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Post by rockynv on Aug 19, 2016 22:13:51 GMT -5
I use a vacuum bleeder myself and have never had a problem. Some find that if they completely drain the system that they introduce air pockets/bubbles into the system which as you have found are very difficult to get out afterwards. A big mistake that too many make is too vigorously pumping the brake lever or shaking the container of brake fluid which also introduces air into the system and note that this will be a bigger issue if you are using one of the newer full synthetic brake fluid instead of a glycol based DOT3 or DOT4 because while the glycol based fluids are hydroscopic absorbing water the Full Synthetic brake fluids will absorb air causing a spongy or unbled feel with greatly reduced braking.
On technique if your hand pumping the brake, once you get pressure at the brake lever you have to hold it there and then just crack the bleeder open without venting all the pressure or air can find its way back in unless you install directional speed bleeders with check valves and sealing compound already on their treads.
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 19, 2016 23:05:18 GMT -5
Reverse bleeding is so easy on a bike, not sure why it would be done any other way.
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Sophomore Rider
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Post by dyoung1167 on Aug 21, 2016 7:25:26 GMT -5
the easiest and cheapest way is to use a clear piece of tubing, such as fuel line. the whole idea behind loosen tighten loosen of the bleeder is because if it's open when you release the brake it will suck air back in. put the tube on the bleeder and make it long enough to go up a few inches and then down to hang lower than the brake caliper (preferably) into a catch can. you will be able to see any and all air bubbles as they exit and once they are a little ways from the bleeder there is enough fluid that the bubbles will not travel far enough backwards when releasing the brake lever to be reintroduced to the system. extremely easy and can also be used too make bleeding car breaks a one man job also.
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Post by ricardoguitars on Aug 21, 2016 9:11:33 GMT -5
Get a cattle syringe and a fuel hose, attach the hose to the syringe and to the bleeding valve, fill the syringe with brake fluid, open the master cylinder top and the bleeding valve, squeeze the syringe gently and use a towel to absorb the excess of fluid on the master cylinder, do this until there are no more bubbles coming out of the master cylinder, and the fluid is clean. As Jerry said, reverse bleeding is so easy that it makes no sense doing it other way.
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Post by lain on Aug 21, 2016 15:59:47 GMT -5
Well the problem resolved itself over a short amount of time. I will have to replace the pads though, they seem to be worn to the plates.
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Post by crawford on Aug 21, 2016 18:35:52 GMT -5
what your saying is gravity bleed that will work to a point but never run out of brake fluid. You will still need to bleed it should work as long as all air is removed.
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Post by crawford on Aug 21, 2016 18:37:41 GMT -5
what your saying is gravity bleed that will work to a point but never run out of brake fluid. You will still need to bleed it should work as long as all air is removed.
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Post by lain on Sept 15, 2016 14:42:51 GMT -5
Used a reverse bleeder and turkey baster today to fill new brakes and lines.... NEVER GOING BACK. 'Nuf said.
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