|
|
Post by rockynv on Aug 3, 2016 11:43:02 GMT -5
Speed doesn't matter when breaking in a CVT based engine. It has no relationship to the engine speed. According to the owners manuals on the last 4 I looked at it does. That was 2 different Chinese scooters, an Aprilia and a Piaggio. |
|
|
|
Post by ghcoe on Aug 3, 2016 12:06:37 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Aug 3, 2016 12:16:17 GMT -5
Speed doesn't matter when breaking in a CVT based engine. It has no relationship to the engine speed. According to the owners manuals on the last 4 I looked at it does. That was 2 different Chinese scooters, an Aprilia and a Piaggio. Use a little common sense. You can red line at 20mph with a CVT, so why would mph matter? |
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on Aug 4, 2016 4:26:53 GMT -5
According to the owners manuals on the last 4 I looked at it does. That was 2 different Chinese scooters, an Aprilia and a Piaggio. Use a little common sense. You can red line at 20mph with a CVT, so why would mph matter? Never have seen that unless you break the other rules for all CVT bikes regardless of being in the break in period however many still rock on and off the throttle driving the belt down lower than it should be in the drive sheave which can cause red lining the engine and sometime jamming up the belt so that the rear wheel locks up or the belt breaks or put in excessively light rollers. You have to follow all the rules. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Aug 4, 2016 7:36:06 GMT -5
You are missing the point. Engine speed and MPH are not correlated on a CVT, it is designed to maintain constant engine speed, so bike speed is not a good metric to use when breaking in. Much better to concentrate on attempting to vary the engine speed during break in, that will help assure a good ring set.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Aug 4, 2016 13:55:53 GMT -5
Have you tried checking the fuel and vacuum lines? Sometimes the problem is a loose end, could just cut it shorter by a quarter inch each end. Could also be hardened vacuum petcock, my old petcock on my 92cc before moving to manual did the same thing and for a long time I thought it was tuning issues and bought SOOO many jets...
Tears in the line are pretty easy to check, cover the end and blow on the other end, see if air flows even though it is blocked off. Minor tears/leaks can cause these issues like people said with low vacuum at high rpm. High RPM is the point when your engine has the least amount of vacuum power (yeah sounds backwards right?), so that's the point most likely to experience the issues with minor leaks.
Then again could be somethign else, we are just looking at it through our imaginations really.
|
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on Aug 5, 2016 21:55:42 GMT -5
You are missing the point. Engine speed and MPH are not correlated on a CVT, it is designed to maintain constant engine speed, so bike speed is not a good metric to use when breaking in. Much better to concentrate on attempting to vary the engine speed during break in, that will help assure a good ring set. A more constant speed would be more accurate and it does vary from an low idle to full red-line when you have the throttle pegged. You have to read all the words in the manual relevant to run-in or break-in and not just the poorly written translations from Chinese. CVT scooters have been around for many years now and the break-in rules were vetted out by Piaggio quite some time ago. Constant speed such as pegged at 55 during break-in has always been prohibited. No full throttle running except for brief bursts to set rings, no rocking the throttle and no operation at over 2/3 max speed is what it generally works out to in practical application or you have tight cylinders that are not broken in binding along with lean run overheating and potential soft seize conditions developing. On a 150 that equates to keeping the speed below 35 or 40 mph during the break-in period while on a 250 your looking at around 55 mph tops during the break-in. It is generally also accepted that max speed capability will gradually increase after the break-in period is over as parts wear in. It is not realistic to expect to ride a bike with a max published speed rating of 55 mph at a constant 55 mph until after the break-in and wear-in period has completed which can take a few thousand miles depending on the engine. This can make the difference too in getting only 8,000 miles before having to re-build a scooter engine and going 25,000 to 50,000 miles instead. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Aug 5, 2016 22:29:26 GMT -5
Pretty sure that's what I said, just a lot less words.
|
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on Aug 8, 2016 4:13:45 GMT -5
Pretty sure that's what I said, just a lot less words. Nothing close. Speed does matter as the bike goes from Idle to RedLine at Max Speed as set up from the factory. Yes if you break the rules you can force RedLine early however you are warned not to do that in the owners manual. In normal operation when riding the bike as per whats specified in the owners manual you should never see RedLine at anything but Max Speed unless there is something wrong or the bike has been modded with extremely light rollers. |
|
