Post by rcq92130 on Jun 16, 2016 1:39:00 GMT -5
Yep.
There are only 2 generic forms of O2 sensors. The one i used was a discard from my BMW - it no longer switched fast enough to allow the engine computer to pass smog, but is blinding fast for our needs. Needle on the gauge fluctuates VERY fast to changes in throttle.
The one thing you need to avoid (with the gauge I showed) are "wideband sensors", the more modern kind that give output voltages ranging from a few tenths NEGATIVE volt to a few tenths positive, depending on the O2 content. These do NOT work properly with that kind of gauge.
The older, more traditional sensor (used on most cars up until 10 years ago or so, gave output from about 0.2 volts (super lean) to 0.8 volts (super rich). The meter properly and accurately interprets this signal. So - get a cheap, NON-wideband O2 sensor ... and get one that is used and considered no good for a car so the price is cheap or maybe even zero. Should work fine.
A note: sensors generally have 4 wires - 2 pairs. One pair is for the heater element (sensor needs to get hot). These connect to +12v and -12v, no particular order. The other pair is the sensor output you will connect to the gauge. The gauge I used had a +12v and a -12v wire (ground), and only 1 sensor output wire. So, I connected one sensor output wire to it and the other sensor output wire to ground.
It's very interesting to see air/fuel at mid-range, then WOT, then as the throttle is closed. I think with some thought you can really zone in on the best combination of low end jet - and mixture at idle thru mid range, and also main jet (for mid range and wot). You just need to ride, watch, and think through what is happening at different engine settings and what can move it all into a "slightly rich" result under all conditions.
There are only 2 generic forms of O2 sensors. The one i used was a discard from my BMW - it no longer switched fast enough to allow the engine computer to pass smog, but is blinding fast for our needs. Needle on the gauge fluctuates VERY fast to changes in throttle.
The one thing you need to avoid (with the gauge I showed) are "wideband sensors", the more modern kind that give output voltages ranging from a few tenths NEGATIVE volt to a few tenths positive, depending on the O2 content. These do NOT work properly with that kind of gauge.
The older, more traditional sensor (used on most cars up until 10 years ago or so, gave output from about 0.2 volts (super lean) to 0.8 volts (super rich). The meter properly and accurately interprets this signal. So - get a cheap, NON-wideband O2 sensor ... and get one that is used and considered no good for a car so the price is cheap or maybe even zero. Should work fine.
A note: sensors generally have 4 wires - 2 pairs. One pair is for the heater element (sensor needs to get hot). These connect to +12v and -12v, no particular order. The other pair is the sensor output you will connect to the gauge. The gauge I used had a +12v and a -12v wire (ground), and only 1 sensor output wire. So, I connected one sensor output wire to it and the other sensor output wire to ground.
It's very interesting to see air/fuel at mid-range, then WOT, then as the throttle is closed. I think with some thought you can really zone in on the best combination of low end jet - and mixture at idle thru mid range, and also main jet (for mid range and wot). You just need to ride, watch, and think through what is happening at different engine settings and what can move it all into a "slightly rich" result under all conditions.
on that there hi-fi