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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 23:36:47 GMT -5
Can you post some pics with the scoot at tdc . pics of the valves and cam .
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 23:41:11 GMT -5
The problem with doing it the way you usually do is that , for the very first valve adjustment , you would have to do it at tdc. This way when you do it your way , everything will go smooth.
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Post by ital on Jul 10, 2015 0:17:42 GMT -5
Everything up to the oil being allover the place sounded to me like a vacuum leak problem. What kind of intake manifold are you using? Make sure spacer between head and intake manifold is not cracked.
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 10, 2015 9:08:36 GMT -5
I've tried two different intake manifolds, the stock one and a 30mm aluminum one, I did the spray test on the new one without any sign of leaking. the oil is unrelated, just a new problem.
geh- I'll send pictures in a bit once I get it apart.
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 10, 2015 9:09:57 GMT -5
also would a compression test show any indication of excessive pressure enough to blow a seal?
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 10, 2015 16:03:48 GMT -5
    I think that's pretty much as timed as possible on these motors? I mean I checked it over and over and over, as timing being off led me to the complete tear down, didn't want to risk that again. That being said, I think I've found the culprit. That damn orange adjustable cdi box. I put the original back on and it seems to start much quicker and even start when warm, but until the idle enrichment circuit closes off, it idles funny, so it likely just needs tuning. revving to about 6000 rpm it starts choking out with either cdi, i did the kill-the-engine-at-WOT test and the plug is white on the tip. So probably need to up-jet from the 125 that came with it? I don't think this engine parts combo creates much vacuum and therefore needs a bigger fuel port to compensate. But I could be very wrong about that. I'll try a 130 and see if the float is horizontal. Also, while I had the covers off I removed the stator magnet and turns out every bolt needed a bit more torque, like a quarter- to half-turn per bolt, and the oil leak appears to be gone. I assume that's part of the rebuild break-in, but this is new to me and oil on the ground isn't ever a good thing. I'll update if I find anything new. |
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Post by scooter on Jul 10, 2015 16:39:36 GMT -5
also would a compression test show any indication of excessive pressure enough to blow a seal? I don't know what exact number the gauge would show, maybe up in the 190+ range, but yes, a compression test would show that carbon buildup had increased your compression. I have seen oil blown out of a valve cover because of an exhaust valve that was too tight. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 10, 2015 17:27:48 GMT -5
I think that's pretty much as timed as possible on these motors? I mean I checked it over and over and over, as timing being off led me to the complete tear down, didn't want to risk that again. That being said, I think I've found the culprit. That damn orange adjustable cdi box. I put the original back on and it seems to start much quicker and even start when warm, but until the idle enrichment circuit closes off, it idles funny, so it likely just needs tuning. revving to about 6000 rpm it starts choking out with either cdi, i did the kill-the-engine-at-WOT test and the plug is white on the tip. So probably need to up-jet from the 125 that came with it? I don't think this engine parts combo creates much vacuum and therefore needs a bigger fuel port to compensate. But I could be very wrong about that. I'll try a 130 and see if the float is horizontal. Also, while I had the covers off I removed the stator magnet and turns out every bolt needed a bit more torque, like a quarter- to half-turn per bolt, and the oil leak appears to be gone. I assume that's part of the rebuild break-in, but this is new to me and oil on the ground isn't ever a good thing. I'll update if I find anything new. Do you have a gravity fed fuel system ? If so , remove the vaccum petcock, and install a manual shutoff valve. You can also use wider fuel line. This would eliminate all need for any vacuum. |
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 11, 2015 9:02:13 GMT -5
my compression is around 125psi, and I have a manual petcock already. in fact, with the pump carb, I have no vacuum lines at all, everything is internal on that. I seriously think the long bolts holding the crank case together just needed another little turn, I didn't see any oil underneath it yesterday but I may ride it around a bit today and see.
I'm going to try to tune everything with the stock cdi first then if I can get it nice and smooth I'll try to put that orange cdi back on and tune that, hopefully with better results.
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 11, 2015 17:07:05 GMT -5
good news! the stock cdi seems to have resolved the problem. it fires up very quickly, hot or cold. possibly there's a setting on the adjustable one that gets close to this because there seems to be less torque and it doesn't accelerate nearly as quickly, especially once the variator starts adjusting.
tightening the block bolts seems to have cured the oil leak.
thank you to everyone for help diagnosing this. it's all great information!
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 11, 2015 17:22:49 GMT -5
good news! the stock cdi seems to have resolved the problem. it fires up very quickly, hot or cold. possibly there's a setting on the adjustable one that gets close to this because there seems to be less torque and it doesn't accelerate nearly as quickly, especially once the variator starts adjusting. tightening the block bolts seems to have cured the oil leak. thank you to everyone for help diagnosing this. it's all great information! Sounds great !! I hope you have everything figured out so you can now enjoy riding your scoot. |
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 12, 2015 0:37:06 GMT -5
man I hope so too. it's been over a year since owning it, probably 8 months fixing the engine and chassis, it's been awesome learning but I'm ready to ride more!!
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