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Post by rdhood on May 4, 2015 19:24:16 GMT -5
Should I hone it? See how you can still see the cross hatch marks. I think he put it together and it smoked and thats it. Doesn't look like he ran it that way.   |
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Post by lain on May 4, 2015 21:13:13 GMT -5
I've asked the same exact question under even less usage, the answer is yes, hone it if you can. I got a hone tool on ebay for 99 cents with free shipping, worked great for me. I borrowed a drill from a friend, didn't hand my card to any shops. I don't currently see any on ebay for 99 cents again but if you wanna pay for shipping (most likely more than a buck) you can have mine, only used once. PM me if you want it, or info on it.
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Post by rdhood on May 7, 2015 20:06:04 GMT -5
I have the rings, I have a loaner cylinder hone from O'Reilly auto parts, and I will rebuild this weekend!
update: I couldn't wait. Cylinder is honed. I spent about 60 seconds with a low speed hand drill. It erased the vertical marks that you can see in the pic. I washed it down good with soap and water afterwords. Now I get to install the new rings and reassemble.
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Post by rdhood on May 8, 2015 17:00:13 GMT -5
Okay, I have installed and clocked the rings. I never took the piston off of the engine. Am I going to have trouble sliding the cylinder head over the piston/rings? Am I going to need a piston ring compressor? Should I simply go ahead and remove the piston , put in cylinder, and then slide the whole thing on and reattach the piston? What is the best way to go about this?
Edit: nevermind. It's on! Kept hanging on the last oil ring for most of the last hour. I tried a dozen ways to compress that ring. Finally, I took the cylinder off, re-seated and clocked the oil rings. The thing is: the sandwich WILL fit in the piston with almost nothing sticking out and should slide pretty much right into the edge taper of the cylinder. If it is hanging for any reason on those rings, something is wrong and the sandwich needs to be reseated. The top rings are easy enough to compress and wiggle on by hand.
2nd Edit: Holy crap! I didn't realize that some rings have markings on them that should be turned up. I took off the cylinder, checked the top two rings. No marks. put it all back together. I am getting good at it now... only took me about a minute to get it on!
3rd Edit: 7:52-10:30 - about 2 and a half hours to put it all back together. I've changed clutches, CV joints, dropped an engine. But I have never taken the head off something or re-ringed it. I felt like the guys in the car shows or OCC... wondering what was going to happen when I turned the key. It cranked ride up and idles! I let it run for no more than about 10 seconds.
Barring the adventures in rings, it took a total of about three and a half hours. Doing it a second time, I think I could do it in about two.
Now the question: how do I break this in? If I have done everything correctly, how do I get the rings to seat properly and seal for long life?
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Post by rdhood on May 9, 2015 13:38:09 GMT -5
Latest scooter find: the transmission drain bolt hole is stripped. There were only a few tablespoons of oil in there. I'm going to tap it out to the next size up SAE to avoid having to drill it out to the next size metric.
Someone... at some point... really did a number on this scoot.
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Post by lain on May 9, 2015 13:56:34 GMT -5
Break it in with "normal use." Do not go full throttle too long till 100 miles. Do an oil change at 100 miles or less to clean out the oil from breakin of the rings.
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Post by geh3333 on May 11, 2015 16:27:36 GMT -5
Latest scooter find: the transmission drain bolt hole is stripped. There were only a few tablespoons of oil in there. I'm going to tap it out to the next size up SAE to avoid having to drill it out to the next size metric. Someone... at some point... really did a number on this scoot. Tba , if your use to working on cars , then start working on one of these scoots, its really easy to strip just about every thread on these cases. The metals is very soft . I've learned to use loctite on just about every nut and bolt . this way you don't really have to crank it down to be sure its not going to vibrate loose. |
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Post by rdhood on May 11, 2015 16:53:19 GMT -5
Latest scooter find: the transmission drain bolt hole is stripped. There were only a few tablespoons of oil in there. I'm going to tap it out to the next size up SAE to avoid having to drill it out to the next size metric. Someone... at some point... really did a number on this scoot. Tba , if your use to working on cars , then start working on one of these scoots, its really easy to strip just about every thread on these cases. The metals is very soft . I've learned to use loctite on just about every nut and bolt . this way you don't really have to crank it down to be sure its not going to vibrate loose. I believe it. I ended up purchasing an m8x1.25 Helicoil kit. It will be here in a week. In the meantime, I'm getting together all the nut bolts and screws to reassemble the body.I'm not going to run the engine again till I can give it a real half-to-hour long run. Since I can do the helicoil with the bike assembled, I'm assembling it now.in a couple weeks, I'll be able to give it a real test run and assess what I have. |
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Post by geh3333 on May 11, 2015 17:03:48 GMT -5
Can't wait to hear the review !
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Post by rdhood on May 16, 2015 7:18:47 GMT -5
I put the helicoil in and filled the transmission. If I get a chance , Im going to run it today.
Edit: I had the chance. I left it all pretty much apart. My neighborhood has exactly one mile of pavement if you do the whole circuit. That includes one steep .2 mile climb. Since there are no mirrors/lights, I wanted to keep it closer to home. The main road has a 50mph speed limit, and I included .5 miles of that. I let it warm up completely before take off, and kept the rpms low for about 5/10 minutes. I spent about 35 minutes/13 miles of varying from idle to almost WOT, never over revving. During warmup, there was a very small amount of smoke for a minute. I attribute that to whatever lube was left in the cylinder for inserting the rings. Other than that, no smoke at all!
I am going to run it like this for a few more times... till I put about 50 miles on the new rings. Then I'll get a tag and take it out. In the meantime, the back brakes are a joke and I noticed that the handle bar is a little bent like it had been laid down on that side. It seems to be limited to the handlebar as the front end seems to track and turn well. In fact, it rides really good, so I am not sure that I will fix the handlebar. I think some carb tuneup/variator weighting is definitely in order. After warmup, it idles almost too low. It doesn't seem to have has quick a pickup as Scoot #1. After 50 miles or so, I'll give it WOT in the flats and see what it will do and how long it takes to do it. Then I will do some hills and see what it will do.
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Post by rdhood on May 17, 2015 17:13:22 GMT -5
pulled the back wheel off to have a look at the brakes. The shoes look good and have about 1/8" of pad, but the bike just won't stop. In fact, revving the engine will overcome the back brake. Since shoes are cheap, I bought a set and they should be here Wed. In the meantime, I cleaned up the drum... first with 409 then with brake cleaner. I am going to get some 400 grit sand paper and rough the surface of the drum a little bit before putting in new shoes. Hopefully, they will actually work this time. The sparkplug end of the coil looks a little rough... the plastic boot is cracking apart. So I am going to get a new coil , put it on scoot #1 and move that coil to this bike.
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Post by geh3333 on May 17, 2015 18:35:06 GMT -5
pulled the back wheel off to have a look at the brakes. The shoes look good and have about 1/8" of pad, but the bike just won't stop. In fact, revving the engine will overcome the back brake. Since shoes are cheap, I bought a set and they should be here Wed. In the meantime, I cleaned up the drum... first with 409 then with brake cleaner. I am going to get some 400 grit sand paper and rough the surface of the drum a little bit before putting in new shoes. Hopefully, they will actually work this time. The sparkplug end of the coil looks a little rough... the plastic boot is cracking apart. So I am going to get a new coil , put it on scoot #1 and move that coil to this bike. Just buy a new boot . they screw off from the wire . a good NGK boot will do . I got one from the moto shop down the road for like 3 bucks . you can cut maybe 1/2 inch of the coil wire before screwing the new boot on . |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 17, 2015 21:46:07 GMT -5
I put the helicoil in and filled the transmission. If I get a chance , Im going to run it today. Edit: I had the chance. I left it all pretty much apart. My neighborhood has exactly one mile of pavement if you do the whole circuit. That includes one steep .2 mile climb. Since there are no mirrors/lights, I wanted to keep it closer to home. The main road has a 50mph speed limit, and I included .5 miles of that. I let it warm up completely before take off, and kept the rpms low for about 5/10 minutes. I spent about 35 minutes/13 miles of varying from idle to almost WOT, never over revving. During warmup, there was a very small amount of smoke for a minute. I attribute that to whatever lube was left in the cylinder for inserting the rings. Other than that, no smoke at all! I am going to run it like this for a few more times... till I put about 50 miles on the new rings. Then I'll get a tag and take it out. In the meantime, the back brakes are a joke and I noticed that the handle bar is a little bent like it had been laid down on that side. It seems to be limited to the handlebar as the front end seems to track and turn well. In fact, it rides really good, so I am not sure that I will fix the handlebar. I think some carb tuneup/variator weighting is definitely in order. After warmup, it idles almost too low. It doesn't seem to have has quick a pickup as Scoot #1. After 50 miles or so, I'll give it WOT in the flats and see what it will do and how long it takes to do it. Then I will do some hills and see what it will do. Good job on the Build! I just recently finished a build myself, it sure is a good feeling when you hit the key and she fires up for the first time isn't it? Mine did the same as yours, for about the first 2 minutes she smoked, then it started to dissipate and after 5 min, the smoke was completely gone... I was worried and trippin think I clocked my rings wrong or something.... Boy oh boy was I relieved when the smoke let up.... Anyhow, good job on the build and have a bone on me! |
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Post by rdhood on May 22, 2015 21:32:15 GMT -5
Well, I put a new set of shoes on the back, but I swear that the back brakes are as bad as ever. Nonetheless, it takes a load off of my mind knowing that its as good as it can be. I put it all back together and took it for a spin. It seems to be getting stronger. Acceleration and idle are both better. Absolutely no smoke at all today! I've got 20 miles and 50 minutes on the new rings now so I think I'd see smoke if the new rings are not seating properly. I am going to take it easy for a few more days and put a few more miles on . If all goes well, I'll put it back together and get a tag for it next week.
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Post by geh3333 on May 22, 2015 22:52:17 GMT -5
Well, I put a new set of shoes on the back, but I swear that the back brakes are as bad as ever. Nonetheless, it takes a load off of my mind knowing that its as good as it can be. I put it all back together and took it for a spin. It seems to be getting stronger. Acceleration and idle are both better. Absolutely no smoke at all today! I've got 20 miles and 50 minutes on the new rings now so I think I'd see smoke if the new rings are not seating properly. I am going to take it easy for a few more days and put a few more miles on . If all goes well, I'll put it back together and get a tag for it next week. Did you know you can adjust the brake arm on these scoots ? Let's say you tighten the nut all the way " the nut at the rear of the CVT" then u think , man I need to buy new brakes, but when you take the back wheel off , the brakes have a good bit of pad left on them . there is a brass arm that the line runs through . its the arm that tightens when you adjust the nut . you have to take the 5/16 but off the arm , remove the arm from the slotted shaft , reposition it back a little further and then you can put the brake line back into the arm and you have full adjustment of the brakes. If I recall correctly I did this two times and still had brake pad left on my rear shoes. |
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