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Post by geh3333 on Apr 18, 2015 18:51:52 GMT -5
Looks like you have to replace the crank again ! I would buy a new variator and drive face while your at it. There has to be a problem In the CVT somewhere . if I were you I would clean out the clutch very good , you said you had a belt break , you may have some debris stuck in the clutch causing the clutch to either not open correctly or have some resistance causing too much tension on the variator .
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 18, 2015 18:59:31 GMT -5
I can tell you what happened...... most likey... One of two things...... One, the belt wasn't down in the clutch far enough when you put the drive face back on, so when you tightened the variator nut, it snugged up against the belt and not the dowel meaning the variator wasn't tight. It might of felt tight, but it wasn't. Two, One of the weights flipped in the variator when the belt broke, or when you were putting it back together. Net results, same thing. The variator nut wasn't tight. Might of felt tight, but it wasn't. Two is probably what happened in your case. Only because you described a rattle. That is a symptom of an out of position weight. Not to mention the lack of top speed, and general misbehaving of the scooter. Good thinking , that def is a possibility. If a slider was out of place , the drive face would be tight at takeoff but as the variator closes the drive face would begin to wobble due to the pressure of the belt and the belt being further up the variator and drive face. I'm a little stumped about why the scoot would suddenly shut down ? He still may have a fuel issue . |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 18, 2015 19:53:30 GMT -5
Thanks urbanmadness. I squeeze the belt to retract the clutch and use an impact wrench so I thought I was doing it right. Is there anything more I can do in the future so I don't repeat this?
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Post by madirishman on Apr 18, 2015 20:06:31 GMT -5
Looks like you have to replace the crank again ! I would buy a new variator and drive face while your at it. There has to be a problem In the CVT somewhere . if I were you I would clean out the clutch very good , you said you had a belt break , you may have some debris stuck in the clutch causing the clutch to either not open correctly or have some resistance causing too much tension on the variator . Thanks geh3333, I will be getting a new crank and I guess a new variator. I plan on upgrading to the 72cc or the 80cc. Any suggestions about parts to get? I have the 1p39qmb. Do I need a heavier crank shaft or anything like that? |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 18, 2015 20:07:56 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 18, 2015 20:44:29 GMT -5
I would just get the standard replacement. The reason I mentioned a new variator was because I was concerned that the splines on the drive face were messed up , and or the variator itself maybe damaged from what happened. You def don't want to have to buy and replace another crankshaft after this one . it becomes a pain if you have to keep replacing and messing them up . |
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Post by bandito2 on Apr 18, 2015 22:19:55 GMT -5
When I change drive belts on my scoots and replace the variator faces, I will rotate the face forward a turn or 2 a few times during the tightening process. That way I make sure I am not just cranking it down pinching the drive belt. But, I don't know if doing that would make a difference if the rollers were keeping the the variator face from its proper place.
I guess testing to see the variator working properly before closing it all the way up might expose the problem early on. It might be a good idea then to note how far onto the shaft it is supposed to be when installed correctly. If it is not where it should be then it would be easier to know to correct it before riding.
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Post by madirishman on Apr 19, 2015 5:32:27 GMT -5
Ordered a new crank shaft, gaskets, 80cc upgrade kit and will check the drive shaft/clutch area for debris. I really do appreciate all the advice and tips. Should have everything by Thursday and will post update then. Thanks.
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2015 12:14:49 GMT -5
Thanks urbanmadness. I squeeze the belt to retract the clutch and use an impact wrench so I thought I was doing it right. Is there anything more I can do in the future so I don't repeat this? Always take the variator apart when you are doing a belt change. Inspect the weights (look for flat spots that indicate wear) then when you put it back on, make sure you hold the back plate and the variator together so nothing shifts when you put it back together. It needs to be slid all the way back on the crank shaft. Once you do that, the weights and everything should stay in position while you put the belt on. If you hear a jingle, jangle anytime you are working with it, take that variator off again, and check the weight positions. Then get that belt down in the rear pulley as far as you can get it to go. The goal is to have a bit of slack around the front pulley (some space between the slide dowel and the belt so it's not tight, this will give the driven face enough room to go on completely), then put the drive face on (it should go on all the way and back up against the slide dowel), then impact the nut down. Lubing and cleaning everything that needs lube, goes without saying. You can guess how I know this... LOL I did the same exact thing you did. I was lucky and didn't hurt the crank. With me, it was the belt pushed the driven plat out just enough so that the nut didn't get tight. |
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2015 12:25:18 GMT -5
I can tell you what happened...... most likey... One of two things...... One, the belt wasn't down in the clutch far enough when you put the drive face back on, so when you tightened the variator nut, it snugged up against the belt and not the dowel meaning the variator wasn't tight. It might of felt tight, but it wasn't. Two, One of the weights flipped in the variator when the belt broke, or when you were putting it back together. Net results, same thing. The variator nut wasn't tight. Might of felt tight, but it wasn't. Two is probably what happened in your case. Only because you described a rattle. That is a symptom of an out of position weight. Not to mention the lack of top speed, and general misbehaving of the scooter. Good thinking , that def is a possibility. If a slider was out of place , the drive face would be tight at takeoff but as the variator closes the drive face would begin to wobble due to the pressure of the belt and the belt being further up the variator and drive face. I'm a little stumped about why the scoot would suddenly shut down ? He still may have a fuel issue . One thing at a time. Lets get the variator worked out, then we will go after the fuel issue. These bikes are a balancing act. If you work it harder because the variator is acting up, a fuel problem arises that would not normally be there. He might be working it WOT and loosing vacuum to the petcock for example but until that variator is sorted, and it's somewhat running, we can't fix the other issue. It might even be a CDI that's bad. By the way, is he using sliders or rollers? and are the guides in good shape (thought just hit me) |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 19, 2015 16:25:59 GMT -5
I use rollers. As I mentioned earlier, I use rollers (currently 4 & 7 gram). I have changed the sizes many times since the belt broke and have a process when I reset the cvt. I squeeze the belt to pull the clutch tight and create slack in the belt, and then I use an impact wrench to tighten the crank shaft nut. Every time I open the cvt cover, I reset the rollers. I'm not sure if something in the clutch caused the damage to the crank shaft or if the drive face or variator were already damaged and caused further damage. I am replacing the variator and the clutch when I put the new crank shaft in and will inspect the drive shaft at the same time. When I get all the parts together, I'll take some photos of the everything and see if more experienced eyes can detect problems before I start it back up. Thanks again for all the help  ? |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 23, 2015 21:25:11 GMT -5
OK, got my parts, and I have the 80cc upgrade installed. Do I need to open the valve clearances? They are currently set at in: .003 out: .005. I will also be working on the cvt tomorrow and will post some pics of the drive shaft and drive to see if everything looks good to y'all. Thanks again.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Apr 23, 2015 21:58:53 GMT -5
OK, got my parts, and I have the 80cc upgrade installed. Do I need to open the valve clearances? They are currently set at in: .003 out: .005. I will also be working on the cvt tomorrow and will post some pics of the drive shaft and drive to see if everything looks good to y'all. Thanks again. You should be fine with those settings. I've been setting both of mine to .003 inches for the last seven years on a 50cc, 63cc, and 72cc(aka 80) engine, with 3-4 different engines. |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 23, 2015 22:10:58 GMT -5
OK, got my parts, and I have the 80cc upgrade installed. Do I need to open the valve clearances? They are currently set at in: .003 out: .005. I will also be working on the cvt tomorrow and will post some pics of the drive shaft and drive to see if everything looks good to y'all. Thanks again. You should be fine with those settings. I've been setting both of mine to .003 inches for the last seven years on a 50cc, 63cc, and 72cc(aka 80) engine, with 3-4 different engines. Cool. Thanks onewheeldrive. |
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