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Post by madirishman on Apr 23, 2015 22:10:58 GMT -5
OK, got my parts, and I have the 80cc upgrade installed. Do I need to open the valve clearances? They are currently set at in: .003 out: .005. I will also be working on the cvt tomorrow and will post some pics of the drive shaft and drive to see if everything looks good to y'all. Thanks again. You should be fine with those settings. I've been setting both of mine to .003 inches for the last seven years on a 50cc, 63cc, and 72cc(aka 80) engine, with 3-4 different engines. Cool. Thanks onewheeldrive. |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 23, 2015 21:25:11 GMT -5
OK, got my parts, and I have the 80cc upgrade installed. Do I need to open the valve clearances? They are currently set at in: .003 out: .005. I will also be working on the cvt tomorrow and will post some pics of the drive shaft and drive to see if everything looks good to y'all. Thanks again.
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Post by madirishman on Apr 19, 2015 16:25:59 GMT -5
I use rollers. As I mentioned earlier, I use rollers (currently 4 & 7 gram). I have changed the sizes many times since the belt broke and have a process when I reset the cvt. I squeeze the belt to pull the clutch tight and create slack in the belt, and then I use an impact wrench to tighten the crank shaft nut. Every time I open the cvt cover, I reset the rollers. I'm not sure if something in the clutch caused the damage to the crank shaft or if the drive face or variator were already damaged and caused further damage. I am replacing the variator and the clutch when I put the new crank shaft in and will inspect the drive shaft at the same time. When I get all the parts together, I'll take some photos of the everything and see if more experienced eyes can detect problems before I start it back up. Thanks again for all the help  ? |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 19, 2015 5:32:27 GMT -5
Ordered a new crank shaft, gaskets, 80cc upgrade kit and will check the drive shaft/clutch area for debris. I really do appreciate all the advice and tips. Should have everything by Thursday and will post update then. Thanks.
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Post by madirishman on Apr 18, 2015 20:07:56 GMT -5
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Post by madirishman on Apr 18, 2015 20:06:31 GMT -5
Looks like you have to replace the crank again ! I would buy a new variator and drive face while your at it. There has to be a problem In the CVT somewhere . if I were you I would clean out the clutch very good , you said you had a belt break , you may have some debris stuck in the clutch causing the clutch to either not open correctly or have some resistance causing too much tension on the variator . Thanks geh3333, I will be getting a new crank and I guess a new variator. I plan on upgrading to the 72cc or the 80cc. Any suggestions about parts to get? I have the 1p39qmb. Do I need a heavier crank shaft or anything like that? |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 18, 2015 19:53:30 GMT -5
Thanks urbanmadness. I squeeze the belt to retract the clutch and use an impact wrench so I thought I was doing it right. Is there anything more I can do in the future so I don't repeat this?
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Post by madirishman on Apr 18, 2015 17:11:43 GMT -5
No idea. Was doing a test run, heard loud grating sound, stopped scooter and when I pulled cvt cover off, that's what I found.
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Post by madirishman on Apr 18, 2015 16:42:17 GMT -5
Scary noise was crank shaft and drive face shredding each other. Crank shaft has groove cut into teeth and inside teeth of face are gone. Going to order new crank shaft, drive face and get the 80cc upgrade while I'm at it. All new innards should fix the problem, right? ?   |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 18, 2015 14:10:06 GMT -5
Update: changed the petcock, still died. Changed fuel filter. Still died. Removed air filter, didn't die, but top speed of only 18mph. Then loud scary noise from trans box. Variator bolt had worked loose. I'm letting it cool off now and will post more soon.
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Post by madirishman on Apr 18, 2015 5:30:59 GMT -5
This sounds really similar to a problem a friend of mine had where he would stall out seemingly randomly while driving. Shortly before he would stall out you could hear clacking/clicking coming from the carb. Turned out his petcock wasn't working right anymore. My theory is the clicking/clacking is the sound of the needle slide moving when not dampened by fuel. I'll change out the petcock and try it again. |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 18, 2015 5:27:11 GMT -5
I wonder , since you say you have a new carb , if when you get up to that speed at 7000 rpms if your carb is running dry , hesitating causing something loose to rattle . does it take a few times of turning the engine over to start again ? And does the scoot hesitate at all while shutting down. Yes, I have to turn full throttle and kick (I shorted out the ignition module while soldering on the tach) a few times to restart. Not sure about the hesitation, it pretty much just dies. |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 17, 2015 23:10:47 GMT -5
No. On the center stand, I can rev up over 10k with no problem. Only with a load over 25mph (7000 rpm)
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Post by madirishman on Apr 17, 2015 18:29:32 GMT -5
Where is the rattle coming from ? Not sure. It goes from 25mph to dead in just a couple of seconds. |
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Post by madirishman on Apr 17, 2015 18:10:06 GMT -5
50cc taotao scooter with new carb, pin at center position, and 89 jet. All else stock. Valves - in .003/out .005. A month ago, the belt blew at top speed (doing about 40) replaced belt, and top speed dropped to 32. Started mixing rollers and I guess I went one to many times, but I stripped the threads on the drive shaft. I replaced the drive shaft, put in new gaskets, reassembled the engine and went on a test drive. Was doing ok, and suddenly rattled, lost power and died. It started back up but did the same thing at about 25mph (7000 rpm). New plug, same results. Valves, variator/clutch/belt, and fuel lines are all ok. What else can be causing this? Also no oil leaking.
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