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Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 25, 2015 13:28:40 GMT -5
I think the best setup for roller weight is what gets you from point A to point B the quickest (besides 1/4 mile racing), depending on hills and how many stops you make, rider weight, and ccs. If you put in heavier roller weights, but can only reach that new top speed on only 1 part in town or a road you don't normally travel, than it probably isn't worth it. Running 9g weights for mostly stop and go travel, is probably lowering your average top speed more than what 7.5-8g would. Top speed goes out the window in stop and go travel, since it takes awhile to reach it, normally.
I basically weigh the stop and go travel and good ol' straightaway country road driving to work, to decide my roller weights. It's basically overall top speed and the time it takes me to get through town or the longer trips to work- and lean a 1/2 gram or so one way or the other.
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Post by lain on Mar 25, 2015 13:32:09 GMT -5
I think the best setup for roller weight is what gets you from point A to point B the quickest (besides 1/4 mile racing), depending on hills and how many stops you make, rider weight, and ccs. If you put in heavier roller weights, but can only reach that new top speed on only 1 part in town or a road you don't normally travel, than it probably isn't worth it. Running 9g weights for mostly stop and go travel, is probably lowering your average top speed more than what 7.5-8g would. Top speed goes out the window in stop and go travel, since it takes awhile to reach it, normally. I basically weigh the stop and go travel and good ol' straightaway country road driving to work, to decide my roller weights. It's basically overall top speed and the time it takes me to get through town or the longer trips to work- and lean a 1/2 gram or so one way or the other. Yeah, I'm probably not going to change the rollers because i have no issues with hills even with passengers and I can reach top speeds immeasurable by my current speedo (50mph max) lol. |
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Post by upfartoolate on Mar 25, 2015 14:54:49 GMT -5
My Dr. Pulley slider core weights:
1 slider - 15.96 grams
4 sliders - 16.01 grams
1 slider - 16.04 grams
I used Liquid Metal to increase their weight:
1 - 18.03 grams
3 - 18.05 grams
2 - 18.06 grams
Don't do that, though... the Liquid Metal broke apart, and I found a zillion little pieces of Liquid Metal when I opened the belt cover.
I'll be ordering a mini-lathe soon, so I can turn my own custom weights (as well as make small parts for the scooter that I can't purchase). I calculated that I can do it for about 75 cents per weight, with the current cost of brass.
Once I become proficient at lathing the weights, I'll offer to do so for others, to recoup the cost of purchasing the lathe.
So if you wanted, say, 15.33 gram weights, or any combination of different weights, you could get them, rather than the set weights that come in packs for purchase.
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Post by upfartoolate on Mar 25, 2015 14:59:53 GMT -5
I also have an idea for a core that allows you to change the weight easily. Gotta get the mini-lathe, turn some proof of concepts, and test them first. If it works, it'll be super easy to change the weight of your cores to whatever you want, without having to purchase additional cores.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 25, 2015 15:09:11 GMT -5
I ordered some 7.7g polini weights awhile back, but my digis only weigh in half grams so I didn't even bother. Normally I weigh each individual roller, then all six at once.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 25, 2015 15:25:03 GMT -5
When I'm street cruising my RPMs stay around 6k. I found the higher RPMs help with a huge hill I have to climb on my route to work. Then I'm probably not at a bad setting. I can climb hills like nothing and it only slows down to about 30mph, or maintains if I had speed before climbing. I just always found it weird that even at WOT downhill it wouldn't go much more than 6500rpm If you decide to toy with the weights, I bet dropping .5g would be perfect, keeping you at the most around 7,000rpm at max speeds. Safely. In my experiences, it really depends on a new belt and rollers. Your rpms will just gradually increase over time anyway. For example, my rpms were just over 7,000 at max speed-- without downhill or tailwind, even more so with those factors. Just changed out the belt and rollers (same weight), now it's between 6500 and 7000. In short time, my rpms will be about right where they want them, after the new belt and rollers wear in. It's something to think about. If I put in new rollers and new belt, but my rpms were at 7500 brand new-- my rpms will be in the danger zone at max speeds in a month probably. |
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Post by scooter on Mar 25, 2015 17:33:51 GMT -5
Could someone confirm for me if I understand rollers correctly. Heavier rollers make take-off harder and makes it harder to go up hills from a stop, but also raise the top speed slightly? Lighter rollers makes the engine able to get to higher revs with less effort, but costs some top speed? What would the minimum for a 50mm "100cc" BBK be? 8? Would it be dangerous o try my 5g rollers? Would it maybe allow the engine to rev TOO high? Just trying to understand a little bit, I'm contemplating going outside on this wonderful 48 degree day to mess with my rollers lol That's the simplified version. Here's the straight dope on weights. You need enough weight to open the variator fully. Any less and you will lose top end. Any more and your bike will gear up at lower RPMs.
If you have good acceleration and you are cruising at high RPMs, you might benefit by adding more weight. If you have poor acceleration, you can drop the weight. Use a tachometer to take readings while accelerating, and a top end. If you are revving too low then drop weight and/or add shims. If you are revving too high then add weight and/or remove shims or shave the boss length. Shims are the answer when you can't find a balance of acceleration and top end RPMs. Shims raise and lower the entire gear "set". Adding shims increases high and low end RPMs. Removing shims decreases high and low end RPMs. If you are using the lightest weights you can, and you still can't reach your target RPMs then add shims. Shims reduce the whole gear set, as said above, but if your engine can't rev high enough at top end then adding shims can actually increase your top speed by allowing your engine to reach max HP. A standard GY6 150 is said to have max torque at 6500 RPM and max HP at 7000. A 125 has max HP at 7000 RPM. A 50cc has max HP at 7500. It's all about RPMs. The "right" RPMs are where your maximum power is, however, it's up to you how high you want to rev during acceleration, cruising, and top end, and the tach is the tool that will tell you if you're where you want to be. |
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Post by geh3333 on Mar 26, 2015 0:28:24 GMT -5
My CVT needs to be tunned perfect to be able to hit my top speed on a straight run. I've been mess in with the CVT and right now I have an 11.5 mixture in and I'm right around 7200 rpms on a straight run with a top speed 64mph . if I put an 11 gram mixture in my rpms go up around 7900 rpms , which is too high for a straight run. So I'm sorta stuck . the only thing I can do is use my dremel to grind the 12 gram weights down to about 11.70 which will give me a mixture of 11.35 if I mix them with 3 - 11 gram weights. Or I can grind the 12's down a little more for a mixture of 11.25 grams. But I first need a new scale .
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