|
|
fuel line
by: geh3333 - Dec 20, 2014 7:43:37 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Dec 20, 2014 7:43:37 GMT -5
How's it going , I went into town to pick up a couple new clamps for my fuel line and while I was there I decided I was going to run copper fuel line from the tank to the filter and from the filter to the manual shutoff valve. From there I'll keep the rubber fuel line . its about eight inches or so from my manual shutoff to the carb. I'll be able to secure the line to the frame all the way to the shutoff valve . I'm leaving the rubber line because it will have to flex and move as the frame moves up and down with the suspension. The fuel line I got has a much bigger inner diameter then the fuel line I'm using now , not that it will make much of a difference but I'll have greater fuel flow up to the shutoff valve.
Has anyone ever used solid fuel line instead of the usual hose ? I'll post some pics after I'm done .
|
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 20, 2014 10:41:50 GMT -5
I believe a good quality "rubber" fuel line is better, the stiffer the line, the more likely you will get leaks on junctions because of vibration and copper/metal fatigue.
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 20, 2014 18:18:54 GMT -5
I believe a good quality "rubber" fuel line is better, the stiffer the line, the more likely you will get leaks on junctions because of vibration and copper/metal fatigue. That is true , I just wanted to give the copper fuel line a shot , and where my fuel tank output is it runs just about directly into the rear shocks. My fuel line was always rubbing against the shock spring . I was able to bend the copper line around and clear the rear shock. I'll post a pic 2mro . not that its something great but I'll post one. Thanks for the reply |
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 20, 2014 22:25:12 GMT -5
I believe a good quality "rubber" fuel line is better, the stiffer the line, the more likely you will get leaks on junctions because of vibration and copper/metal fatigue. That is true , I just wanted to give the copper fuel line a shot , and where my fuel tank output is it runs just about directly into the rear shocks. My fuel line was always rubbing against the shock spring . I was able to bend the copper line around and clear the rear shock. I'll post a pic 2mro . not that its something great but I'll post one. Thanks for the reply The brake pipes on my Land Rover are made of copper, the last bit that is attached to the wheel cylinders is a rubber hose, that is a good approach that you could use, you have a reliable copper pipe for long distances, and rubber flexibility at the junctions  |
|
|
|
fuel line
by: geh3333 - Dec 20, 2014 23:16:01 GMT -5
via mobile
scooter likes this
Post by geh3333 on Dec 20, 2014 23:16:01 GMT -5
After I changed the fuel line 2day I started the scoot up . my battery was pretty weak so it took a few extra hits of the ignition to get it started " it was also pretty cold 2day" so when it started I got some white smoke out of the exhaust due to the fuel build up . after it started it stalled out after as couple seconds and I noticed a puff of white smoke from around the carb. I noticed one of the vacuum lines I had plugged off with a small bolt " screwed into the end of the rubber vacuum hose " was split in a couple places at the end of the hose and the bolt was just hanging there by the zip tie I used to secure it in place. After cutting and plugging the hose and retuning the carb I started the scoot up . with the engine being very cold I did have to give it some throttle for about 15 seconds , but after that the autochoke worked perfect . the open vacuum line was causing the scoot to stall out after the autochoke closed off . the fix also fixed a small dead spot I had at bottom end as I would start to give the scoot throttle . I even noticed the engine running noticeably stronger then it has been . the funny thing is that I had this dead spot for a while " pretty much all summer" so the vacuum line must have been open for awhile. If i kept on and off the throttle at a stop sign i was able to keep the rpms a little higher so that i would not hit the dead spot on takeoff. But now even the throttle response it so much better. She's back to running like a beast. I can't wait to see how it runs now at all out on a straight run  |
|
|
|
fuel line
by: lain - Dec 21, 2014 14:25:05 GMT -5
Post by lain on Dec 21, 2014 14:25:05 GMT -5
I believe a good quality "rubber" fuel line is better, the stiffer the line, the more likely you will get leaks on junctions because of vibration and copper/metal fatigue. That is true , I just wanted to give the copper fuel line a shot , and where my fuel tank output is it runs just about directly into the rear shocks. My fuel line was always rubbing against the shock spring . I was able to bend the copper line around and clear the rear shock. I'll post a pic 2mro . not that its something great but I'll post one. Thanks for the reply I just use zipties to keep the rubber lines out of the way, I don't tighten them too much. I make it so there is a lot of play available for the line to move when it needs to, but also small enough to protect it from getting in the shocks or anything else. Inside my frame looks like a bunch of ziptie rings holding my lines in place where I want them. |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Dec 22, 2014 23:01:55 GMT -5
I said I'd post a pic so here it is . like I said its nothing great but I did say I'd post a pic.  My scoot really needs cleaned up ! The bolts are starting to rust ! |
|
|
|
fuel line
by: JerryScript - Dec 23, 2014 0:34:32 GMT -5
Post by JerryScript on Dec 23, 2014 0:34:32 GMT -5
You might want to add a bit of plumber's tape from the frame to the copper tube for support, plumber's tape gives much better support than simple zip ties, and is still inexpensive. As the standard fuel lines the copper tube is connected to slowly dry out over time, they tend to split at the connection due to repetitive motion (seen it in many a brake repair job). Adding support will help dampen motion that causes these cracks.
|
|
|
|
fuel line
by: geh3333 - Dec 23, 2014 1:14:39 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Dec 23, 2014 1:14:39 GMT -5
You might want to add a bit of plumber's tape from the frame to the copper tube for support, plumber's tape gives much better support than simple zip ties, and is still inexpensive. As the standard fuel lines the copper tube is connected to slowly dry out over time, they tend to split at the connection due to repetitive motion (seen it in many a brake repair job). Adding support will help dampen motion that causes these cracks. Here is a pic of the the inner diameter of the copper line compared to a pencil " I cant find my tape measure", so you could imagine the size rubber fuel line I had to use to connect it with. The fuel line from the shutoff to the carb isn't much smaller. The line from the tank to the shutoff is very stiff . I figure most of the flexing will be done between the shutoff and the carb. That doesn't mean its not a good idea to tie it up a bit.  |
|
|
|
fuel line
by: geh3333 - Dec 23, 2014 1:23:17 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Dec 23, 2014 1:23:17 GMT -5
I started the scoot today because I didn't ride it yesterday and it started up with the first push of the ignition. That vacuum line being open was really causing some problems. If I wouldn't have changed the fuel line I probably wouldn't have caught it for awhile.
|
|
|
|
fuel line
by: tvnacman - Dec 23, 2014 7:40:18 GMT -5
Post by tvnacman on Dec 23, 2014 7:40:18 GMT -5
nice find , keep your eye on the new pipe .
John
|
|
|
|
fuel line
by: geh3333 - Dec 23, 2014 9:06:39 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Dec 23, 2014 9:06:39 GMT -5
nice find , keep your eye on the new pipe . John I def be keeping an eye on it . |
|
