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Post by delraykid on Nov 18, 2014 10:52:37 GMT -5
With the old regulator it cranks and starts. I had a blown bulb (one of two) in the tail-light running light section...and replaced both.
Those particular bulbs receive their voltage via a brown wire...however now they are not lighting up...and when I put 12v on that wire they light up.
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 18, 2014 11:52:41 GMT -5
ok you have 4 wires on your ignition switch , red black green black/white .
the brown is switched power when your kill switch is in the run position and the key switch is in the run position , are you getting any lights ?
here is the deal fuse off the battery + red wire splits to the regulators red and the ignition switch red , when the key is in the run position , the power crosses from the red to the black(could be brown) the black dips into the harness and will connect to brown .
Check the the voltage at the plug by the harness , it will be a larger plug (ground ,running brake left and right turn signal ) do you have a licence plate light or a clear lens area under the tail light ?
When you fed 12vdc to the brown did anything come alive ?
I assume that because you have a 3 phase system your not using acv off a yellow from the stator to power anything . We need to be sure of this ohm all 3 yellows to ground with the regulator unplugged .
I know I'm all over the place here try to answer all the questions as best as you can , working without a diagram here .
John
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Post by delraykid on Nov 18, 2014 13:25:29 GMT -5
John,
Ok...for the ignition switch I have this:
ignition switch:
switch wiring harness
green-------------------->green
red---------------------->red
black-------------------->black
black with white stripe-->pink
When I turn on the ignition switch the black wire is powered up with 12v (I use that to operate the relay for my HID).
When I turn on the ignition switch I believe I should have running lights (tail light and license plate)...I do not have any lights when I turn on the ignition.
When I feed power onto the brown wire...my running lights come on.
I checked all three yellow wires from the harness without the regulator plugged in...they all read "open" to ground.
I think that covers it!
Thanks!!
Steve
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 18, 2014 13:44:51 GMT -5
ok , I need some details here , when you used the black wire to power the relay (tell me what you did) ?
John
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Post by delraykid on Nov 18, 2014 14:09:29 GMT -5
John,
I just used a wire tap to get 12v off of the black wire to operate my relay for the HID's...then I wired in the light switch to control the HID's.
And also disconnected the existing wire plug that went into the dash light switch....(with white, black, dark green and blue wires) so this got me thinking...when I originally wired in the HID (about a year ago) and used the light switch to just switch on the HID I probably had to short a couple of wires out to get the running lights to operate.
So at this point I believe I shorted out a couple of the wires in the light switch plug to get the running lights to come on with the ignition...and perhaps that wonderful piece of work I did came out and therefore...no running lights.
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 18, 2014 14:14:37 GMT -5
John, I just used a wire tap to get 12v off of the black wire to operate my relay for the HID's...then I wired in the light switch to control the HID's. And also disconnected the existing wire plug that went into the dash light switch....(with white, black, dark green and blue wires) so this got me thinking...when I originally wired in the HID (about a year ago) and used the light switch to just switch on the HID I probably had to short a couple of wires out to get the running lights to operate. So at this point I believe I shorted out a couple of the wires in the light switch plug to get the running lights to come on with the ignition...and perhaps that wonderful piece of work I did came out and therefore...no running lights. I would agree , you seem to be on your toes with the wiring . I think we together could make some changes to you wiring and replace your regulator to a more standard and common regulator . John |
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Post by delraykid on Nov 18, 2014 14:21:29 GMT -5
" I think we together could make some changes to you wiring and replace your regulator to a more standard and common regulator ."
That would be awesome! Even if the existing regulator is not bad...it would be nice to get a more standard device put in...therefore if I do have an issue in the future...it will be an easy replacement.
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 18, 2014 15:56:46 GMT -5
this is what I had in mind . use the white to trigger the relay work the auto enrchener and running lights . This way you have all power from the battery for start up . Being the white wire only puts out 12vdc when the engine is running . youe that to control the relay . If you wanted to use a switch to keep the relay out after you start up or before you shut down for a little extra for the battery . How many watts is your HID ? John
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Post by delraykid on Nov 19, 2014 6:40:09 GMT -5
I currently use a relay with a built in 10 second delay to power my HIDs, which are 35watts each. www.ebay.com/itm/HID-Relay-Time-Delay-SPDT-10-second-delay-/181265677069?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123I use the black wire to trigger the relay...and the 10 second delay allows me to use all of the battery power to start the scoot...works perfect. For now the first thing I need to do is sort out the issue I have with the wrong part being shipped to me. Second thing will be to wire up the running lights to the aforementioned relay output....which will turn on the HID's and running lights on after the scoot is already running...I think that should work. After all of that I will take a very close look at your suggestion to wire up another regulator/rectifier to a more standard issue model. Thanks for your help with this issue!  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Nov 29, 2014 3:28:28 GMT -5
Hey John, is the 11-pole upgrade kit you sell AC or DC?
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Post by geh3333 on Nov 29, 2014 7:19:55 GMT -5
Hey John, is the 11-pole upgrade kit you sell AC or DC? If I'm not mistaken the 11 pole stators are DC. But I could be wrong . |
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 29, 2014 10:01:06 GMT -5
here is the mind blower : it is what you want it to be ! Bashin on doc did a full write up with illustration (I can't find the link) his scooter was a dc ignition system , he changed the stator and now can choose ac or dc cdi .
He got several parts from me did a before and after . I will send him a message see if he can find it .
John
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Post by dmartin95 on Nov 29, 2014 15:15:25 GMT -5
here is the mind blower : it is what you want it to be ! Bashin on doc did a full write up with illustration (I can't find the link) his scooter was a dc ignition system , he changed the stator and now can choose ac or dc cdi . He got several parts from me did a before and after . I will send him a message see if he can find it . John John, thanks, however I'm not interested in converting this scooter. All stators produce A/C, so yes it's possible, but the wiring for this scooter is setup for A/C. It currently uses an A/C CDI, so I need an 11 pole A/C stator kit. NOT a D/C stator and not one I have to convert. An A/C system powers the lights and they are activated the R/R, If I converted it, I would have to re-wire a bunch of extra stuff and add unnecessary work. If you don't know if it's A/C or D/C, that's fine.. But I am only interested in an A/C setup. D/C statorA/C stator
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 29, 2014 17:10:59 GMT -5
here is the mind blower : it is what you want it to be ! Bashin on doc did a full write up with illustration (I can't find the link) his scooter was a dc ignition system , he changed the stator and now can choose ac or dc cdi . He got several parts from me did a before and after . I will send him a message see if he can find it . John John, thanks, however I'm not interested in converting this scooter. All stators produce A/C, so yes it's possible, but the wiring for this scooter is setup for A/C. It currently uses an A/C CDI, so I need an 11 pole A/C stator kit. NOT a D/C stator and not one I have to convert. An A/C system powers the lights and they are activated the R/R, If I converted it, I would have to re-wire a bunch of extra stuff and add unnecessary work. If you don't know if it's A/C or D/C, that's fine.. But I am only interested in an A/C setup. D/C statorA/C stator
Take a closer look at the pics in the link , they are the same stator just photographed in a different position . You might want to ask the vendor to confirm that . AC/DCJohn |
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Post by bashan on Nov 29, 2014 22:13:37 GMT -5
John knows full well the difference between AC and DC systems. The man is an electrician for New York City. Now, you want a pure AC system? It doesn't exist. The closest you can get is the standard GY6 GYW stator that produces AC for the CDI and lights, and AC for the R/R to convert to DC for the battery. John has the three phase 11 coil stator with the magneto coil you can use for an AC CDI while using the three phase for DC power. It's a nice system, I've used it. Or, you can not use the magneto coil and use the three phase DC output for ignition and lights. I did that too and it worked great. So I'm not sure what you're looking for, if you want AC powered lights you must use a GY6 GYW stator and tap the yellow wire. If you want the extra power of a three phase stator you will have to run the three yellows through a R/R and end up with DC voltage. In those cases you have a feed to the battery and a black wire off of the R/R that is 12v DC with the ignition switch. If you have a magneto coil you can have an AC CDI. Here is the thread John was referring to.
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