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Post by dcustriker on Oct 5, 2014 22:40:53 GMT -5
I guess I'll have to wait until it does it again. Just rode it back home from work with zero issues. Although I'm going to watch my gas consumption because the gauge seemed to be reading a little less than I was expecting, but that could just be me rather than any issue with the scooter.
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 5, 2014 22:53:21 GMT -5
When does this happen when it is warmer outside or colder? If you just came home from work and it ran fine what was the temp ? Temp swings of 20+ effect the way a motor runs it will either run LEAN or RICH depending on how you currently have it set for.
Alleyoop
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Post by dcustriker on Oct 5, 2014 23:37:36 GMT -5
It was definitely cooler outside when it was working good. Probably a good 15 degrees cooler max I would say.
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 6, 2014 0:00:52 GMT -5
So it is currently set to lean and needs a little more fuel for when temps are a little warmer. So you can turn the fuel ratio mixture screw 1/4 -1/2 turn counter clockwise and see if that fixs it. Or you can wait until it happens and Back off the throttle 1/8-1/4 like I mentioned before and that will definitely tell you what the motor needs. That trick of the trade is very accurate and works at any throttle position and takes the guessing out of it.
Alleyoop
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 6, 2014 4:38:35 GMT -5
my scooter use to take a few tries at 50 degree and would not start 35 degrees even 40 was a lot of work . I put in a 40 pilot and all is good . it will start in the 20's .
John
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Post by dcustriker on Oct 6, 2014 10:47:30 GMT -5
I drove it again this morning and noticed a sort of pulsing when I was stopped and idling. Like the engine was slightly pushing forward just a little at times. But the scoot never died or seemed like it did yesterday. Temperatures were similar to last night this morning though at about 60. Will be about 73 when going to work.
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 6, 2014 12:51:39 GMT -5
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Post by dcustriker on Oct 6, 2014 18:05:57 GMT -5
Ok here is what happened when i let off the throttle when it was having problems. It was 70 degrees outside, I left of the throttle and it loses power (engine not dead) and kinda pushes me forward like an engine brake type thing? If that makes sense. After I notice the loss of power, I hit the throttle again with no change, the scooter still slows down until I come to a stop and the engine then cuts off. A few times the engine seems to start back up, other times (more commonly) it takes a few seconds of cranking and pulling the throttle to get it up. I also noticed the absence of the clicking sound that usually accompanies the kill switch when I shut off when I got to work. I'll take notice of the temperature when I leave and how she is riding.
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Post by dcustriker on Oct 10, 2014 15:57:56 GMT -5
So now the issue has changed a bit. Now I can't get the scooter to start regardless of the weather. It was doing it's normal thing when riding it to work, dying, restarting, etc., However, now it will start up then immediately die. I've played around with the air/fuel mixture to try and see if that would get to work, but I get the same result regardless of where the screw is positioned. I looked at the spark plug...it showed obvious signs of getting way to much fuel as it was almost entirely black. I put the old chinese plug back in to see if i could get the thing figured out, but nothing. Sometimes it will stay on for a few seconds, but the engine kinda starts dying then picks up repeatedly until it dies off. I'm thinking it may be a problem with the carburetor. Any thoughts?
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 10, 2014 16:13:55 GMT -5
Check you AIR FILTER maybe it is soaked with oil. Turn the fuel mixture clockwise until it stops and turn it out 2 to 2 1/2 turns that should allow it to start and actually run pretty good IF EVERYTHING IS OK.
What I think is you are not following the carb adjustment procedure because of the surging that you mentioned and or dieing that procedure and testing would have caught that while still on the center stand and you were adjusting and testing it on the center stand. I think you are rushing it and overdoing the adjustment and or not doing it right. All that you say is happening is due to a bad adjusted carb is all.
So follow the carb adjustment procedure AFTER it starts and warms up for at least FIVE mintues and TAKE YOUR TIME 1/4 to 1/2 to much in either direction makes a big difference in starting and running at high higher speeds.
ALSO to check for AIR LEAKS get a spray bottle of water let it warm up and then spray individual areas, where the INTAKE MANIFOLD connects to the motor then where the carb connects to the INTAKE MANIFOLD and then by the AIR filter side or if you see any connectors on the air box or air tubing open plug them up. The fuel system delivery is a closed system and only the AIR FILTER should be feeding air any extra air from some other place will cause problems. Also Vacuum Leaks from any of the VACUUM hoses will cause problems.
Alleyoop
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Post by dcustriker on Oct 10, 2014 21:49:58 GMT -5
 When the scooter shuts down, I've noticed a buzzing noise. Exactly like air escaping from a tight space. It seems to be coming from around the thing I included a pic of the object I seem to be hearing the noise from. Is this normal for the bike to do during shut off? I'll try and redo the air/fuel mixture. Only thing is, the start up and shut off thing began before I even got the bronze cap off the carburetor to touch the air/fuel mixture screw. |
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 10, 2014 22:01:35 GMT -5
That canister is a charcoal canister and that is your GAS TANK VENT(EVAP SYSTEM). It could be leaking Vacuum and or clogged and that would cause your fuel delivery problem.
I usually tell folks to take that crap off. And here is how:
1. On that canister is a hose going to the gas tank, take that hose off the canister and if you have a spare fuel filter put it on the end of it and zip tie it higher than where it is coming off the top of the gas tank.
2. On the canister is a VACUUM hose take it off and PLUG the Vacuum hose at it's ORIGIN.
3. If there is a HOSE from that canister going to a connector on the AIR TUBING or AIR BOX pull it off and PLUG the CONNECTOR either on the AIR TUBING or AIR BOX.
Now you can take the canister completly out and any hoses connected to it.
Alleyoop
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Post by dcustriker on Oct 11, 2014 17:43:54 GMT -5
Okay. I redid the carb adjustment by turning it all the way in then 2.25 turns counterclockwise. I put some fuel directly into the carburetor and after a little while of starting, she fired up. When she fired up, she started revving up and started turning the wheel like she was off to the races. After a few seconds she would slow down then die. Sometimes she would continue running, but would have some hesitations until she died. Does this say anything about the adjusting? I pulled the fuel line off the carb just to make sure she was getting flowi and gas was coming out. I even tried to loosen up the idle screw and she seems to run the same regardless.
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 11, 2014 18:12:19 GMT -5
When they first start cold they usually will idle a little higher due to the ENRICHER feeding extra fuel. Then once the ENRICHER shuts off the extra fuel it should come down to IDLE around 1500-1800 rpms(WHERE EVER YOU SET THE IDLE TO).
Try this take the gas cap off the tank and start it up again and see if it still dies after a few minutes of idling. This will test if the EVAP system is clogged and not allowing the fuel to flow to the carb.
Can you get a VIDEO of it starting up and running .
Alleyoop
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Post by dcustriker on Oct 12, 2014 10:19:48 GMT -5
Yea I'll try to take a video of it later today. I need to run the battery up to autozone for recharging. Someone suggested to me that it could be the choke.
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
