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Post by rlg23 on Sept 30, 2014 1:39:22 GMT -5
Hey Guys, I just purchased a TaoTao ATM50-A1 scooter and am hoping to get some help with the issues it is having. I assembled it today but I am unable to get the scooter to start using the electric starter. More specifically:
- The scooter has been assembled according to the manufactures instructions. - I am unable to start the scooter using the electric starter. - When turning the key to the on position no lights come on (noting seems to change at all). - When pressing the starter button nothing happens (with the kill switch on, the kickstand up, and either/both breaks held in).
- I am able to kick start the scooter (but I need to be holding one of the breaks). - After kick starting the headlight comes on and can be toggled between low and high beams. - When high beams are selected the indicator light on the panel comes on. - No other indicators on the instrument panel work (fuel gauge/back-light) when the scooter is off or on. - No other lights come on when the scooter is running after the kick start (running lights). - The break lights do not come on when either break is pulled when the scooter is off or on. - Neither blinker works when the scooter is off or on. - Both flipping the kill switch or turning the key to the off position shuts off the scooter.
I am not sure how many of these issues would be related to something being broken in the electric starter system because I would think that the electronics should still all work after the scooter has been kick started.
I have swapped out the battery with that of a friends and nothing changes. I have removed all body panels in order to check that all of the connections are tight. There is a stray pair of wires ending in a wire connector located approximately behind the battery box. I recall having seen these types of stray wires in a PDI video and I am not sure if they are unused or not. Mechanically, the engine sounds fine though I have not been able to take it out for a ride with these issues. I am going to get a multimeter in the next day or so and start checking around and will probably disassemble the wiring harness to make sure there aren't any broken wires I cannot see.
I am going to get in contact with the seller (KillerMotorsports) in the morning about this problem but I don't know how much sellers are willing to assist with these types of problems. Hence any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated. I will keep this post updated with any new information I come across as I work on it this week.
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 30, 2014 12:32:57 GMT -5
The problem is your FUSE it is on the RED THIN WIRE connected to the POSITIVE POST on the battery. There may not be a fuse in the holder or it is bad. That red wire with the fuse feeds the KEY IGNITION 12Volts all the time and when you turn the KEY ON it connects to a black wire that then feeds anything that needs 12volts.
That is why nothing works when you turn on the key WHICH, some things should work just by turning on the key and here are what should work with just the KEY ON motor not running.
1. HORN 2. ALL GAUGES 3. BRAKE LIGHTS 4. SOLENOID to Electric Start the motor 5. Running Lights Alleyoop
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New Rider
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Post by rlg23 on Sept 30, 2014 13:56:54 GMT -5
alleyoop: Thanks for the suggestion. I did check that last night by swapping out the fuse with the spare. However, there is a non-neglable chance I did not have something else hooked up correctly. I will double check this evening. The fuse really does seem like the most likely case. I will update after trying tonight.
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 30, 2014 14:34:40 GMT -5
Yes if you have a 12V light tester or a multi meter CHECK BOTH SIDES of the FUSE HOLDER to make sure voltage is coming in and going out. Alleyoop Harbor Freight: 6.00 bucks Hardware store: Couple bucks INDISPENSABLE on scoots to check if something that should get voltage is not:
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Post by rlg23 on Sept 30, 2014 22:20:52 GMT -5
After pokeing around a bit with a multimeter, I came to find out the one of the pins in the wire connector going to the starter button was bent. In particular, it was the pin connecting with the wire running to the fuse confirming what alleyoop suggested. Realigning the pin using a flathead screwdriver fixed everything. I guessed a learned a good lesson: if you're going to check that the connections are good, use a multimeter. alleyoop: Thanks for the help!
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Post by mftic on Sept 30, 2014 22:25:08 GMT -5
Feels good gettin it goin huh?
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 30, 2014 22:29:01 GMT -5
Yea if you feel like it I would change out the Tube Type fuse for a blade type with a cover. Those tube type fuses can cause problems just by going over bumps and vibration. You auto parts stores carry them. Alleyoop
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