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Post by geh3333 on Aug 18, 2014 21:46:37 GMT -5
I'll try to make this short . I bought my first Koso about 2.5 yrs ago " no problems " belt traveled all the way down and near the top . I bought a new one at the begini g of the season and the belt started nearly 1/2inch up the variator , I had to but a new one due to clutch issues messin the new one up . And the new one is the same way nearly 1/2inch up the variator is where it starts . I found out why . The new variator is longer " where the boss sits " about 2mm longer causing the space between the variator and drive face to be 2mm thinner which won't let the belt drop all the way down . Here are the pics .  . First and second Koso the third is on the scoot but just like the second with the space at the bottom .  . Very first koso .  . Second and third Koso . |
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 19, 2014 2:10:14 GMT -5
Hey scooter it seems as if the cast may be bad or even meant for a different style scoot . I would grind it down from the back but he c clamp is close to the edge and I'd also have to get it ground down evenly or the variator will spin unevenly until it begins to open.
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 19, 2014 2:14:56 GMT -5
Hey scooter it seems as if the cast may be bad or even meant for a different style scoot . I would grind it down from the back but he c clamp is close to the edge and I'd also have to get it ground down evenly or the variator will spin unevenly until it begins to open. Then again the boss should prevent the variator from spinning unevenly . |
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Post by scooter on Aug 19, 2014 2:48:35 GMT -5
I'll try to make this short . I bought my first Koso about 2.5 yrs ago " no problems " belt traveled all the way down and near the top . I bought a new one at the begini g of the season and the belt started nearly 1/2inch up the variator , I had to but a new one due to clutch issues messin the new one up . And the new one is the same way nearly 1/2inch up the variator is where it starts . I found out why . The new variator is longer " where the boss sits " about 2mm longer causing the space between the variator and drive face to be 2mm thinner which won't let the belt drop all the way down. I am holding my old variator here and I can see several dimensions that will matter. One is the distance of the steel ramp plate, from the back to the surface that is touching the rollers. One could conceivably shave off a little of the back face of that plate to allow the pulleys a little more room to move apart but it would weaken the plate. (The steel plate should not be touching the back of the variator with the rollers installed. It should be sitting only on the rollers.) The next is the distance on the variator sheave, between the point where the rollers touch, and the face of the sheave. One could conceivably shave off a little of the face of the belt driving surface to allow the pulleys more room to move apart. The next is the length of the "boss" as I call it, that round thing the variator pulley rides on. Making it a little longer, or adding a small spacer between it and the steel ramp plate would allow more room for the pulleys to move apart. You mentioned caution in not pushing the drive face off the splines, and I agree, however this seems to be a standard way to adjust the variator. I'm guessing as little as 1/2 mm could make a difference. I think the sheaves are 15 degrees each? So for every 1mm (.039") wider, according to this online calculator, the belt should drop 3.73mm toward the center, if that's correct. Everyone should do their own math to avoid problems. So that would move the belt down about 9/64 of an inch. A little over an 1/8" down. This method leaves the variator ramp sheave face in its original position, presumably in line with the clutch rear sheave. In my case, an 1/8" down would probably be good. In yours, maybe not. If it's 1/2" high then you'd need almost 3 1/2 mm of spacer or over 1/8" wide. 2mm would drop the belt down almost 7.5mm (.294") or almost 5/16" down. It's early and I'm being lazy so there may be errors. |
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 19, 2014 2:59:13 GMT -5
I'm gonna have to measure the new variator " the one that's actually on the scoot just to be sure how high the belt is dropping " or not dropping " . I didn't measure the new one but it seems to have the same amount of space left .Where did you find those spacers ? I never knew they made such a thing . I did think of adding a thin washer " which I'm sure is the same , but I wasn't aware they actually sold them for that reason . I guess I learned something new .
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Post by scooter on Aug 19, 2014 3:09:31 GMT -5
I'm gonna have to measure the new variator " the one that's actually on the scoot just to be sure how high the belt is dropping " or not dropping " . I didn't measure the new one but it seems to have the same amount of space left .Where did you find those spacers ? I never knew they made such a thing . I did think of adding a thin washer " which I'm sure is the same , but I wasn't aware they actually sold them for that reason . I guess I learned something new . I searched google for "variator spacer kit" and an ad popped up for Malossi spacers. I need to know my boss O.D. and shaft O.D. before I order anything. |
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 19, 2014 6:21:08 GMT -5
I'll try to make this short . I bought my first Koso about 2.5 yrs ago " no problems " belt traveled all the way down and near the top . I bought a new one at the begini g of the season and the belt started nearly 1/2inch up the variator , I had to but a new one due to clutch issues messin the new one up . And the new one is the same way nearly 1/2inch up the variator is where it starts . I found out why . The new variator is longer " where the boss sits " about 2mm longer causing the space between the variator and drive face to be 2mm thinner which won't let the belt drop all the way down . Here are the pics . . First and second Koso the third is on the scoot but just like the second with the space at the bottom . . Very first koso . . Second and third Koso . Gee thanks for pointing this out I will check my inventory . Did you get the variators from me ? John |
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 19, 2014 6:51:22 GMT -5
I'll try to make this short . I bought my first Koso about 2.5 yrs ago " no problems " belt traveled all the way down and near the top . I bought a new one at the begini g of the season and the belt started nearly 1/2inch up the variator , I had to but a new one due to clutch issues messin the new one up . And the new one is the same way nearly 1/2inch up the variator is where it starts . I found out why . The new variator is longer " where the boss sits " about 2mm longer causing the space between the variator and drive face to be 2mm thinner which won't let the belt drop all the way down . Here are the pics . . First and second Koso the third is on the scoot but just like the second with the space at the bottom . . Very first koso . . Second and third Koso . Gee thanks for pointing this out I will check my inventory . Did you get the variators from me ? John [/quote My eBay Id is akhuseman2929 , I ordered from giant_wave from Memphis Tennessee . |
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 19, 2014 6:53:43 GMT -5
Let me know the measurements on your koso's , if they are normal I'll order from you . Also what your price on the Koso variator ? I'd like to get a new one and keep the other one as a backup . Thanks a lot .
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 19, 2014 7:29:26 GMT -5
I have about 15 of them in inventory , I will check them in the evening . Then post my results .
John
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 19, 2014 9:28:27 GMT -5
Thanks a lot , I'd like to be able to get the full use outt of my cvt .
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 19, 2014 15:35:20 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 19, 2014 16:02:28 GMT -5
How's it goin alley , what are your thoughts on these shims and what do you think would be to far out to push the drive face on the shaft teeth " splines " . I do have the ncy fanless drive face |
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 19, 2014 16:19:42 GMT -5
I mentioned the ncy drive finless " or fanless " because if I'm correct the ncy drive face is made from a better quality steel and may hold up better then a stock drive face ." That is the teeth /splines "
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 19, 2014 16:37:57 GMT -5
I would not try putting any shims unless your current fan when on has a little of the crank spline protruding that you need a washer or a couple of washer to cover the protruding splines so that the variator nut tightens on the variator and not the splines. If you do not need a washer behind the nut to tighten on the variator then do not add any shims.
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. First and second Koso the third is on the scoot but just like the second with the space at the bottom . 
. Very first koso . 
. Second and third Koso .
..BAD TO THE BONE..