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Post by bille on Apr 29, 2014 9:19:01 GMT -5
To eliminate the gas tank issue simply run it without the cap. If the gas level is low enough and there are no major cracks in the road you should be good spillage wise. If it runs good then drill a small hole in the gas cap for ventilation. On the other hand if your idle randomly increased you have a vacuum leak and air is gettin in somehow. I just ran it without the gas cap and it was pretty much the same thing, after it warmed up the back tire kept spinning and it sounds like it might be surging slightly. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 9:47:33 GMT -5
Yea, i'm pretty sure you have an air leak somewhere. take the tubes off the intake manifold one by one and suck on the to see if air is getting through. If it it is inspect and replace the hose.
If not air is getting through, make sure your carb is fastened on the bike tightly and the manifold if secure and not cracked. The extra air should be making your spark plug lean, check it and its gunna be white.
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Post by bille on Apr 29, 2014 10:17:39 GMT -5
Yea, i'm pretty sure you have an air leak somewhere. take the tubes off the intake manifold one by one and suck on the to see if air is getting through. If it it is inspect and replace the hose. If not air is getting through, make sure your carb is fastened on the bike tightly and the manifold if secure and not cracked. The extra air should be making your spark plug lean, check it and its gunna be white. There are two hoses going into the intake manifold. If you are standing from the back of the bike facing the handlebars one is on the right one on the left. The one on the left (goes to a T which goes to the carb) I wasn't able to suck air. The one on the right (goes to a T which goes back towards the gas tank) I was able to suck air. |
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Post by bille on Apr 29, 2014 10:45:49 GMT -5
Yea, i'm pretty sure you have an air leak somewhere. take the tubes off the intake manifold one by one and suck on the to see if air is getting through. If it it is inspect and replace the hose. If not air is getting through, make sure your carb is fastened on the bike tightly and the manifold if secure and not cracked. The extra air should be making your spark plug lean, check it and its gunna be white. There are two hoses going into the intake manifold. If you are standing from the back of the bike facing the handlebars one is on the right one on the left. The one on the left (goes to a T which goes to the carb) I wasn't able to suck air. The one on the right (goes to a T which goes back towards the gas tank) I was able to suck air. I traced the right hose back and it goes to a black plastic cylinder thing with a bunch of hoses going into it. The reason I can suck air is because on the one side of it there are two hose connections without hoses. One of them is labeled "air drain" and if I cover them with my fingers I can no longer suck air. Is that how it's supposed to be or is something wrong there? |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 12:07:26 GMT -5
The one on the left if for your fuel petcock. It sucks air on the line and releases a diaphragm to let gas pass, when vacuum stops, the diaphragm drops and blocks off the gas passage.
Something is wrong, that canister looking this the scooter's emission witch is notorious for having problem like this.
Its just a fancy way of adding air to the exhaust to dilate emissions for California standards
Its not supposed to suck air through, not even the tiniest bit.
It should not have ANY ports without hoses connected to it.
There should be 1 big hose that connects to the valve cover at the bottom under the silver pipe looking thing
1 more big pipe that connects to nothing and 1 vacuum hose that connects to the intake manifold.
If there are any open ports either the hoses are unplugged or were never attached. If thats the case just go back to the dealer or buy the hoses for under 10 bucks.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 12:18:15 GMT -5
Has your bike backfired at all on de-accel? Vacuum leaks cause the bike to run extremely lean and will overheat the bike witch in turn makes metal expand and will quickly damage the piston ring and cylinder and make you bike run like its been owned for a year and oil gets dirty faster due to blowby. Check your spark to make sure its not on the verge of seizing. Ive had a bike that was too lean and I was going through plugs in a week and a half. They wouldn't die on my just the bike would run rough and eat more gas than usual. After a new plug I got a little faster accel and easier starts and quiet idles.
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Post by bille on Apr 29, 2014 13:27:28 GMT -5
Has your bike backfired at all on de-accel? Vacuum leaks cause the bike to run extremely lean and will overheat the bike witch in turn makes metal expand and will quickly damage the piston ring and cylinder and make you bike run like its been owned for a year and oil gets dirty faster due to blowby. Check your spark to make sure its not on the verge of seizing. Ive had a bike that was too lean and I was going through plugs in a week and a half. They wouldn't die on my just the bike would run rough and eat more gas than usual. After a new plug I got a little faster accel and easier starts and quiet idles. No backfires. I made some videos to show better what I see: video 1 shows what I've done, the bike starting and idling fine. video 2 shows the engine revving during idling and spinning the tire, this happens a minute or two after I end video 1, I guess once the engine gets hot. video 3 attempts to show the factory spark plug I removed from it. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Apr 29, 2014 14:31:51 GMT -5
From video 1:  1. There are two screws under it holding it on circled in black Once everything is off you should be able to slide it off. I've never seen those bars blocking it. They look unnecessary, like they try to make engine service harder. 2. Circled in blue is where there should be a tube connected to from that black canister.  That screw is your idle adjustment screw. Turning that is the equivalent of turning the throttle only it holds it in place. If you look closely the screw is on the throttle and sets the lower limit. And your bike sound and revs fine to me. If you were able to suck air through the 1 tube than there is a problem with the whole canister setup. A vacuum leak not only adds extra air to your air/fuel mix, it lowers vacuum levels too. At high rpm your vacuum level drops a significant amount and at idle its strongest. Sounds like your running the carb dry with high gas demand and not enough vacuum to let the fuel pump supply it. Your spark plug looked decent. If you had checked it after it died out before running it again it would probably be white. |
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Post by bille on Apr 29, 2014 19:20:01 GMT -5
Wait one second, that hose you circled in blue, I traced it back and it goes to a different black cylinder that was hidden under the fuel tank. The line I can suck air on, also goes to that hidden black cylinder (I think it's a petcock?) after the T split.
So I have two black cylinders and one of them has nothing connected on one side and is where my air comes from.....
Does all of that make sense or do you need pictures/video of the lines?
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Post by alleyoop on Apr 29, 2014 19:57:54 GMT -5
Ok Bille, The canister that has two connectors on the bottom with no hoses is your EVAP system, one of the connectors on the bottom is the VENT and the Other connector is the Drain(in case you overfill the gas tank and gas gets into the vent hose line going to the canister). that is all good there should be a VACUUM line going to the TOP of that canister all is good. The Other canister that you found is your PAIR system that has a hose coming from the CURVED chrome piping in front of the Valve Cover and goes into the VALVE attached to the Valve cover. That hose goes to a canister from the Canister you will see another hose OPEN to the AIR nothing attached probably just hanging. Then you will also see a VACUUM hose connected to the canister AGAIN that is all good. Many folks just take all those emissions off and have less hoses and less possible air leaks and block off the Vacuum hoses going to the canisters. The motor sounds really good and revs up nice and strong, the wheel JUST moving a little wanting to spin very SLOWLY is nothing. NOW if it was spinning so fast that with you on it you have to hold the brake on so it would not move then it is spinning to fast and either the IDLE is set to high or something is not right in the CVT that has the CLUTCH engaged at those low rpms. From the plug it looks like it is running just a little Lean which would cause a hickup now and then at idle. You can probably turn the Fuel Ratio Mixture Screw Counter Clockwise 1/4 turn. If that 1/4 turn clockwise raises your idle lower the idle using the SCREW on the right side with the spring on it. Turning that screw a hair makes a big difference it does not take much to lower or raise the idle with a 1/32 turn in either direction. But all in all it is running very good I have to say. If you want to see and read about all the possible Emissions on a scoot I put this together on Doc: scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/9153Alleyoop |
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Post by bille on Apr 30, 2014 17:54:06 GMT -5
It's been raining here for days and won't being stopping until friday so I will need to wait till then to see if the valve changes fixed the stalling. I will report back once I know.
Thanks to everyone for all the help!
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..BAD TO THE BONE..