|
|
Post by alleyoop on Dec 17, 2013 22:00:19 GMT -5
The thing is with the ENRICHER feeding extra fuel IT SHOULD NOT idle that high, maybe 2000 rpms or so. Then once the ENRICHER EXTENDS the idle should drop to around 1500 or wherever you set your idle at. So Something else is causing the rpms to go to 3500-4000. When you cleaned or took the carb off maybe you put something back wrong. Let me go through some of the important things that may cause this if put back wrong or left out. 1. The SPRING in the DIAPHGRAM if not in will cause the needle to rise without to much air pressure.  2. The Needle Guide should extend about 1/8 into the Venturi.  Alleyoop |
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
Joined: Dec 16, 2013 19:00:05 GMT -5
|
Post by sk8almost44 on Dec 19, 2013 20:07:52 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Dec 19, 2013 20:45:06 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by tvnacman on Dec 19, 2013 20:54:20 GMT -5
your clutch bell looks overheated , while your in there pull the clutch . Post pictures of the clutch bell , inside and out .
John
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
Joined: Dec 16, 2013 19:00:05 GMT -5
|
Post by sk8almost44 on Dec 19, 2013 21:08:00 GMT -5
I posted a video if that does better justice than the pictures. dang I HATE pulling those two off but I'll get to it tomorrow! Thanks again everyone for your help and input! I also posted a video of my scooter running so if you see anything wrong or any input/opinions please let me know! I do not have a throttle handle yet because my old one broke when I took it apart.. Wire throttle cable stripped the plastic tube you loop the end of the cable through, and the clamp that holds the handle in place broke (one end you screw in, the other is a hook.. the hook part broke). Here is the new throttle handle I ordered: r.ebay.com/kKSbQ6 Then I can just put my old handle grip over it. |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Dec 19, 2013 21:30:26 GMT -5
I think the reason the clutch bell is blueish(OVERHEATED) is it was probably ridden when the rpms were really high and at stops it was engaged and using the brake to stop it from moving. What happens then is the clutch pads start slipping still engaged and heats up the bell. If you take the bell off I will bet the Clutch Pads are all nice and GLAZED smooth as a babies butt.
But now that you got the idle down and wheel not turning get some fine sandpaper and take the glaze off the pads provided there is still enough material on the pads, which from the Video seems the pads have material left.
Alleyoop
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
Joined: Dec 16, 2013 19:00:05 GMT -5
|
Post by sk8almost44 on Dec 20, 2013 14:36:08 GMT -5
Well got all the gears in place via the pictures you posted, and added some grease and applied some WD40 and the kickstart is working like new again!
I will get to the clutch when I can afford the tools to take the two nuts off for the flywheel and clutch/clutch bell. :/
Still on my to-do list: adjust A/F screw with my idle screw, adjust my valves, Gas gauge and connecting the killswitch! Not in too much of a rush I'm still waiting on the throttle handle to come in the mail along with a new sparkplug. I still need to switch out the oil too because I doubt it was ever done... What else should I check before I get this thing running in the spring?
Also what is the average speed (top speed flat ground) for a 150cc chinese scooter? No BBK, performance exhaust, sliders, etc..
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Dec 20, 2013 16:04:21 GMT -5
Nice going , glad the pictures helped you align and get your kickstarter working. The rest appears to be now just minor stuff but at least now you can ride and it is running pretty good.
Alleyoop
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
Joined: Dec 16, 2013 19:00:05 GMT -5
|
Post by sk8almost44 on Dec 20, 2013 21:20:03 GMT -5
the fuel gauge you will have to take out the sending unit and check if the arm with the float is stuck in the down position or the float does not exist anymore, or the arm is to tight in which case you just have to loosen it up by moving the push on washer out a little. Sorry to sound stupid but I couldn't figure out how to get to the arm inside the tank. :/ What does it look like? Thank you |
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 163
Likes: 15
Joined: Aug 20, 2013 13:54:34 GMT -5
|
Post by phssthpok on Dec 20, 2013 22:51:55 GMT -5
Sorry to sound stupid but I couldn't figure out how to get to the arm inside the tank. :/ What does it look like? Thank you is a photo of the tank (removed from the chassis). The opening on the left is the filler neck. The opening on the right (with the three 'ridges' around it) is where the sending unit fits in. (looks like a 'twist-lock' to me...not screws.) You will have to remove the seat-tub to access the sending unit assembly. HERE is a photo of the fuel sending unit/float arm assembly (removed from the tank). The arm (metal wire thingummy) should move freely up and down. The float (black 'cylinder' at the end of the arm should be intact (if I'm not mistaken it's closed cell foam and shouldn't suffer from leaking internally, or saturation). |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Dec 21, 2013 14:52:48 GMT -5
Nice pics Phsstpok,
The Float unfortunately is made of very thin cheap plastic and hollow. They are known to leak and or deteriorate and or fall right off the wire holder.
Alleyoop
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
Joined: Dec 16, 2013 19:00:05 GMT -5
|
Post by sk8almost44 on Dec 21, 2013 20:25:14 GMT -5
Has anyone switched out their stock petcock? I think mine is struggling to get fuel to the fuel filter..  |
|
..BAD TO THE BONE..
