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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 9, 2013 11:33:15 GMT -5
Or is it just signal-or-no-signal? Ive been pulling my hair out over this thing, and have tried/tested everything including a brand new carb. Whatever is happening, it will re-create the symptoms fine while it runs on the stand, then will magically clear up and run as good as ever, for no apparent reason. When it acts up, it doesn't want to rev up, and if you try it will stall, then not want to restart for a bit. According to my tach (and a spark test) I have spark as soon as I can crank it after it shuts off - I have no indication of loss of spark, unless it comes back that quick. It acts the same with the blue CDI and the stock one. I put the stock coil wire back on and have all but abused it trying to make it act up, and it doesn't Then on the other hand (this is well after it's warmed up) it will randomly run and rev up fine after doing/touching nothing. It revs just as good as ever, and sure enough if I shut it down when it is 'good', it will start right back up just fine. Then about the time I think about putting it back together to go for a ride - it won't rev up anymore, after doing nothing. Its got fresh gas that's been running fine in my mower - no vacuum leaks - valves are spot on - compression pumps up to almost 200psi. There is plenty of fuel flowing into the carb. So, if I have spark, fuel, and compression, all that leaves is timing, right? It behaves exactly the same with the new carb as the old one. I was able the get the a/f screw and idle set while it was 'good' It sort of makes sense in my head... ignition needs to advance when it revs up, right? So if it doesn't, or if timing is way off, the fuel wont burn, loading it up and making it extra rich? maybe making it flood out? When it is 'bad' and shuts off, it does act like a carb thats flooded, it takes a little time and nursing the throttle to start it back up. I have a replacement trigger on the way, but I'm not looking forward to replacing it, since one of my fan bolts has a head rounded off....
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Post by sailracer on Aug 9, 2013 11:50:57 GMT -5
The pickup is just signal/no signal. Looks like you have an electrical "gremlin in there. You tried a new cdi, just a shot in the dark, but try disconnecting the wire from the stator to the regulator.(assuming it's an a.c. system) just use the HV wire to the cdi. and double check all grounds.also, if you have an auto choke or an electrical enricher, disconnect it Attachments:
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Sophomore Rider
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Post by jeffery5568 on Aug 9, 2013 14:09:22 GMT -5
I done this and checked my timing with a timing light and it moved it up a lot but only use one nut two advances to much and it will kick back when you start it. I used super glue and it holds fine. And if you don't like it just take something and knock it off. Attachments:
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Post by sailracer on Aug 9, 2013 18:04:54 GMT -5
[replyingto=jeffery5568]jeffery5568[/replyingto]If I were you, I would atleast put a small bead of weld there. I don't trust superglue for the long-haul. Especially on an application like that! If that nut comes loose at 8,500 rpm, it's gonna be like a bullet.
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Post by jeffery5568 on Aug 9, 2013 18:32:43 GMT -5
Ya I need to put something stronger on mine its just been to hot to do anything outside I don't just have to.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 9, 2013 20:37:22 GMT -5
A failing ignition pickup can cause a signal that builds too slowly and retards timing when they start to fail. They can seem fine when you open up the bucket due to the increased air flow allowing things to cool off but once you start putting everything back together it overheats again and fails.
A advanced timing key for the flywheel is the safer and better approach to advancing timing without upgrading the CDI.
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 9, 2013 21:22:05 GMT -5
If I were you, I would atleast put a small bead of weld there. I don't trust superglue for the long-haul. Especially on an application like that! If that nut comes loose at 8,500 rpm, it's gonna be like a bullet. I agree with this . John
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 10, 2013 9:08:10 GMT -5
A failing ignition pickup can cause a signal that builds too slowly and retards timing when they start to fail. They can seem fine when you open up the bucket due to the increased air flow allowing things to cool off but once you start putting everything back together it overheats again and fails. Excellent - this is what I was wanting to hear, and is the only thing that makes sense in my head. I'm going to peel the rear body off when the new one arrives so I can get a good look at all the wiring too.
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Post by ltdhpp on Aug 10, 2013 9:12:39 GMT -5
just a shot in the dark, but try disconnecting the wire from the stator to the regulator.(assuming it's an a.c. system) just use the HV wire to the cdi. What does this accomplish for testing purposes? Rather, what should I look for and suspect if something changes? I'm guessing it eliminates any other electrical (headlights, battery re-charge) from the picture, in case a problem with them is affecting the ignition circuit? And thanks for the diagram! I'm going to keep a printout of that in the scooter... lol
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Post by sailracer on Aug 10, 2013 9:36:55 GMT -5
[replyingto=ltdhpp]ltdhpp[/replyingto]Exactly right, It eliminates everything but the firing circuit. It's possible that a heavy load or intermittent short could exist.If it doesn't die out, Its not the trigger pickup. If it does, it probably is ;D
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