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Post by JR on Mar 4, 2013 14:35:14 GMT -5
Jr he stated he has .32vac for pulse , that looks to be on the low end . He has also mentioned a pop , I was looking to see if he poped the capactor in the cdi or if the ignition coil has arced internally . It is a wait and see here . John We don't know how fast the engine was turning over on this test and a 50cc will fire with as little as 0.10. JR |
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 4, 2013 19:08:42 GMT -5
Just got home and went to check out the kill switch/key switch. Hooked up the multimeter to the the green wire in the 2 wire connector in the cdi and the opposite end to the positive cable of the battery. With the key switch off, engine run switch to run, the multimeter reads "O/L" essentially no continuity between these. When the key is on, we get a small amount of resistance, indicating continuity. I believe this is right.
JR I followed that green wire on the ignition coil and that goes presumably into the middle row of pins, the green one specifically in the cdi. I checked the continuity of that, and it had continuity between that green w/spade connector and the middle green pin on the cdi.
What should I be checking next?
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 4, 2013 19:11:05 GMT -5
I should also note when I was checking the key switch for continuity I checked the kill switch too with the key in the on position and it didn't affect the continuity between these two, which logically I would think it should/would.
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Post by tvnacman on Mar 4, 2013 19:42:37 GMT -5
Just got home and went to check out the kill switch/key switch. Hooked up the multimeter to the the green wire in the 2 wire connector in the cdi and the opposite end to the positive cable of the battery. With the key switch off, engine run switch to run, the multimeter reads "O/L" essentially no continuity between these. When the key is on, we get a small amount of resistance, indicating continuity. I believe this is right. JR I followed that green wire on the ignition coil and that goes presumably into the middle row of pins, the green one specifically in the cdi. I checked the continuity of that, and it had continuity between that green w/spade connector and the middle green pin on the cdi. The first check on tne positive battery , you should have been reading dcv not resistance . John What should I be checking next? |
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Post by tvnacman on Mar 4, 2013 19:47:28 GMT -5
I butchered that quote .
Be with the key switch in the off position , kill switch in the run position . You should ge battery voltage . This is important . I would check that meter you may have poped the internal fuse .
When you put one lead on the batt and the other on the greeen with the key off 12vdc , then turn the key on you should loose the 12v .
John
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 4, 2013 22:18:30 GMT -5
I didn't try voltage, just continuity. I can try that as well. Need to charge up the battery, although does it need to be 12v, it should measure simply battery voltage right?
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 4, 2013 22:21:11 GMT -5
Yes, and after the charge it should read 12.5 or higher usually 12.7.
Alleyoop
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Post by JR on Mar 4, 2013 22:36:45 GMT -5
I should also note when I was checking the key switch for continuity I checked the kill switch too with the key in the on position and it didn't affect the continuity between these two, which logically I would think it should/would. On this scooter the key switch and engine kill switch are separate and both need to be tested, one can be bad while the other is good and the scooter will not have spark. JR |
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 4, 2013 22:48:34 GMT -5
JR how should I go about doing this? Shouldn't the same procedure be done, but with the black wire from the 2 pin plug
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 5, 2013 13:54:15 GMT -5
I'll try to get the battery charged up.. Older battery so we'll see how this goes. Before it didn't want to hold much of a charge. Need to get a new one, the battery is a XTAX7A-BS. You guys have any recommendations for this if I can't get it charged?
Plan tonight is to check out the kill switch, as I think I have determined the key switch to be good.
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Post by scoot315 on Mar 6, 2013 21:13:35 GMT -5
UPDATE:
So I picked up a new battery today and a couple of mini blade 10 Amp fuses. Hooked everything up and turned the key on and the lights came on! Must have been a bad fuse, replaced it prior but who knows. Checked to make sure it was getting spark and it is. All is looking good.
What size fuse should be in here? I just guess at 10A. Also when I re-did the test of the key switch, went from the 2 plug green wire to the positive side of battery and got 12V+ with and without the key on... Contradicts my previous testing. Ideas?
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..BAD TO THE BONE..