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Post by honda4life on Apr 18, 2020 13:11:46 GMT -5
Dammit!
ok 2007!
The starter took a dump on me so I ordered a new starter. Put it in and wired it up.
turned the key and click click click from the starter relay. Tested battery and it’s fully charged and good....
ok I don’t have the small square starter relay box Kymco has but I have a brand new starter solenoid.
pulled the 2 large red wires from the stock Kymco plug and wired them to the posts on the solenoid. Took the 2 Kymco starter wires and wired them to the new starter solenoid. Nothing.
So what do I do now? Is the factory Kymco square starter solenoid different from an aftermarket solenoid?
It’s a dc cdi......Would this matter with the solenoid? Maybe that’s why it isn’t working?
The factory one is $50!! Don’t wanna buy another and have it not work.
Thoughts?
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Post by tortoise on Apr 18, 2020 13:38:45 GMT -5
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Post by chewbaca on Apr 18, 2020 20:48:59 GMT -5
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Post by honda4life on Apr 19, 2020 22:23:33 GMT -5
Thanks guys! I’ll report back on what I find out.
I am able to kick start and it starts up and runs fine so my issue is related to the relay/starter.
Starter is supposedly brand new and the relay I bought was a generic aftermarket gy6 relay.
Thanks for the link and your recommendations! I’ll check it out on Wednesday when I am off.😀
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Post by honda4life on May 2, 2020 21:16:23 GMT -5
Ok turns out the battery was shot. I’ve ALWAYS had a problem starting it up.
I’m trying to decide if I have it too rich or too lean. My jets don’t have any numbers on them so I have no idea where to start.
It starts when I roll on the throttle. I get it started and it will idle up a little for a few seconds and then the idle drops down and it won’t stay at idle. I need to get a baseline as far as jets to start with. The scooter has 7,000 miles and runs great. My problem is I change too much at one time.
Another issue which is electrical. The blinkers were blinking for awhile and then started just staying on...
I bought a new flasher relay and hooked it up. Now they ALL just stay on when I flick the switch right or left! Maybe one is grounded out somewhere? What would cause this? Brand new relay just put in.?
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Post by chewbaca on May 3, 2020 0:24:04 GMT -5
at 7000 miles you're almost guaranteed to need your first valve job
tight valves can cause starting issues and the extra cranking is bad for the battery and the starter motor
it's .004 and .005 for intake and exhaust
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Post by honda4life on May 3, 2020 21:46:04 GMT -5
I’ve adjusted the valves before and it runs great-when it’s running... question is should I just buy a new head at this point? They are pretty cheap you know?
I did .004 intake and .005 exhaust.
Compression was 165 with throttle open and 205 when I sprayed oil in the spark plug hole.
Does that mean a new head is next?
I have to give it throttle to get it started and it’s a to start. Once started it runs ok but won’t idle-keeps dying out! That’s sometimes intake manifold leak right?
I have a friend that does heads and valves all the time-maybe I’ll take it to him-he’ll do it for free. But new heads are soo cheap.?
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Post by chewbaca on May 4, 2020 12:18:40 GMT -5
pretty much the only issues with a new head is rolling the dice on the quality and the time it takes to get it. I say order one if you want to, but fix up the old one as well.
After a valve grind the valve is slightly lighter.
If you have good compression it's more likely to be the fuel mix, try stripping off the air cleaner and ducting and give it a crank. If that makes it worse put it all back on and spray the air filter with WD40.
removing the air cleaner will slightly lean the mix, the WD40 will enrich the mix as it evaporates from the filter.
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Post by honda4life on May 4, 2020 21:51:18 GMT -5
I have a little extra cash this month so I pulled the trigger. Big bore, head, piston, and cam ordered today. I got a “better” Taiwanese head if it matters...
I have 3 scooters and this one has always been kinda special to me. Haha.
Gave you a bone man! I’ll let you know how things work out!
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