Post by rdhood on Sept 27, 2019 16:45:59 GMT -5
Okay guys, lots prevented me from running the scoot the last couple of years. Got back to it two weeks ago and (you guessed it) the thing wouldnt start. If I sat there with a can of starting fluid, it would crank and run every time... until out of fluid. I had never pulled a carb or opened one before, but since rebuilding the engine on my other scoot, I figured . I pulled the carb. first thing that happened is ALL of the screws stripped holding the bowl on.ARG. I took a dremel and turned them into something I could spin with a screw driver. With the bowl opened, much became apparent. The blue-green goo covered the bottom of the bowl. I had my way with a can of carb cleaner and a toothbrush. But when I got to the pilot jet, I found my problem. There was no daylight there! Try as I might, I could not get something thin enough and stiff enough to clean that thing out. I also tried boiling, heating,etc. So, off to Amazon...
Amazon has SETS of pilot jets. I need a 35, and the want to sell sets. A set is ten bucks. A cheap Yerfdog carburetor is $17.25 shipped. So I bought the Yerf dog carb. If figured that if the carb didnt work, I could pull the pilot jet and put it in my old carb, and get on the road. I also went out to ebay and bought a half dozen pilot jets at $1.50 each to put in the toolbox. They are on a slow boat from China. Anyway, I put the carburetor in and turned it over and it cranked the first time. HOOYA! So, I put it all back together, and went on a lengthy ride. It ran great!... for 30 minutes.... and 20 miles... until I was about 300 yards from home at full power and it bogged and died. Damn! On attempting to restart, it was a tough crank. it started, but it didnt want to. I ran it into my subdivision and took it to the high point and it cut out again. So I took it home. Now, when looking at what might cause the bogging while hot, I guessed that it might be 1) valves (i had never adjusted them) 2) the sensor beside the flywheel 3) an air leak or 4) a vacuum leak. So I 1) adjusted the valves 2) have the sensor but have not replaced, 3) double checked the fit on the intake end of the carb. it was on crooked and I couldnt get a clear view of the backside so I just generally shoved it all the way on this time. and finally, I pushed all of the vacuum lines on all the way and clamped them.
I took it for a 40 mile ride just an hour ago and all seems well. It did NOT die, it idles , runs about 58 mph on the flats and 40mph up steep hills, and all seems great. They say you have to become a scooter mechanic to ride one of these, and its true. But it is still cheap enough to try just about anything yourself.
If you go out and look for the carb on Amazon, there will be a review with pictures posted in the next day or two. While cheap, I did NOT have the problems that some others have had, though it did have some manufacturing flaws that dont seem to affect performance.
My next project is an 11 pole stator/ new 7 pin regulator/put the headlights on DC controlled by a relay. I just finished researching that. I could not believe that after 10 years since the first attempts, no one has written up something concise enough to read and just do it. I am going to try. It really is very simple, does NOT require a new harness, and the solution to put the headlights on DC via a relay to come on when the bike starts was someone else's (really great) idea.
Amazon has SETS of pilot jets. I need a 35, and the want to sell sets. A set is ten bucks. A cheap Yerfdog carburetor is $17.25 shipped. So I bought the Yerf dog carb. If figured that if the carb didnt work, I could pull the pilot jet and put it in my old carb, and get on the road. I also went out to ebay and bought a half dozen pilot jets at $1.50 each to put in the toolbox. They are on a slow boat from China. Anyway, I put the carburetor in and turned it over and it cranked the first time. HOOYA! So, I put it all back together, and went on a lengthy ride. It ran great!... for 30 minutes.... and 20 miles... until I was about 300 yards from home at full power and it bogged and died. Damn! On attempting to restart, it was a tough crank. it started, but it didnt want to. I ran it into my subdivision and took it to the high point and it cut out again. So I took it home. Now, when looking at what might cause the bogging while hot, I guessed that it might be 1) valves (i had never adjusted them) 2) the sensor beside the flywheel 3) an air leak or 4) a vacuum leak. So I 1) adjusted the valves 2) have the sensor but have not replaced, 3) double checked the fit on the intake end of the carb. it was on crooked and I couldnt get a clear view of the backside so I just generally shoved it all the way on this time. and finally, I pushed all of the vacuum lines on all the way and clamped them.
I took it for a 40 mile ride just an hour ago and all seems well. It did NOT die, it idles , runs about 58 mph on the flats and 40mph up steep hills, and all seems great. They say you have to become a scooter mechanic to ride one of these, and its true. But it is still cheap enough to try just about anything yourself.
If you go out and look for the carb on Amazon, there will be a review with pictures posted in the next day or two. While cheap, I did NOT have the problems that some others have had, though it did have some manufacturing flaws that dont seem to affect performance.
My next project is an 11 pole stator/ new 7 pin regulator/put the headlights on DC controlled by a relay. I just finished researching that. I could not believe that after 10 years since the first attempts, no one has written up something concise enough to read and just do it. I am going to try. It really is very simple, does NOT require a new harness, and the solution to put the headlights on DC via a relay to come on when the bike starts was someone else's (really great) idea.
