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Post by jjt on Aug 17, 2017 23:58:10 GMT -5
This weekend I'll be trying to tune the zuma. I'm changing the exhaust so as soon as I get the afr correct I'm going to tune the cvt. I'm installing a dr pulley variator, new clutch and bell and new torque spring. Also have 1000,1500 and 2000 clutch springs. I'm switching to dr pulley sliders but I only have a few different weights to play with.11gr 13gr and 15gr. I also only have a 1000 and 1500 torque spring
My plan is to record the time it takes to accelerate from 0mph-30mph, 0-40, 0-45, and max speed.
also going to measure 10mph-30mph,10-40, 10-45 and 10-max speed.
It should be a fun weekend and I'll post results if anyone is interested.
I plan on trying as many different combinations as I can
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 18, 2017 6:48:08 GMT -5
Oh Man when I saw the Topic I thought we were going to discuss your Torque and HP Numbers on a Dyno Chart.  Joking aside, please post your data. |
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Post by jjt on Aug 18, 2017 7:51:55 GMT -5
I'm not real sure the best way to do that with the cvt. Anyone familiar with doing dyno runs on a scooter? This will be new for me, I've never done dyno runs on something that doesn't have gears. That's the reason I figured I would just do everything timed from a starting mph to a stopping mph. (Dyno automatically starts and stops at a preset speed)
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 18, 2017 10:36:23 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 18, 2017 10:39:01 GMT -5
Be no different running a Scoot on a Dyno with a CVT trans
On a geared machine if you looked at a dyne chart in First Gear will be a Extremely Short Chart to Look at thats why we pull 5 or 6 gear gives us a long Chart to loo at, On a CVT the Reading will just show you s nice long chart with the CVT Maxed out as in the Video above.
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Post by jjt on Aug 19, 2017 9:15:52 GMT -5
True I guess I could start the dyno once it goes into high gear. If I start it low I get a quick rise on the chart then it starts dropping as it goes in to high gear.
I got the variator, clutch, bell and torque spring put on last night. I used the 13g sliders, yellow torque spring and blue clutch springs. Acceleration on the road improved but I'm having an issue with top speed because it don't want to rev much over 7000 rpm. It doesn't matter if I'm on a long straight or going down hill. I have a couple guesses on this but not sure any of them make sense.
1) I didn't get the exhaust done so would the stock muffler be so restrictive it's stopping the engine from revving any higher?
2) is it running to lean and not letting it rev out? Haven't checked it on the dyno but plug looks lean
3) are 13g sliders to heavy to let it rev? The stock weights were 14g
4) would the stock zuma cdi be limited to around 7000? It's an 02 50cc cdi
Also I thought the stock belt would be 842 since it is the long case but it has an 835. Do you think that would be to short to let the variator close all the way? There is a decent size gap between the top and where the belt is going to.
I'm not sure if I should keep testing or not. I'm afraid of taking the clutch apart again because the threads on the big nut didn't look good when I took it apart. It went back together fine and tightened up good but I don't have an extra if it strips.
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Post by cyborg55 on Aug 20, 2017 9:50:39 GMT -5
I'm not sure I'd be comfortable running one of these over 7g's anyways,,,but if it is limited you'd know it because when the engine bumps into the ceiling it shuts off till the rpms drop below the limit ,,,the engines firing breaks up abruptly so you'd know if you were at the limit
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Post by jjt on Aug 20, 2017 22:50:03 GMT -5
Ahh gotcha. I wasn't aware of that. I've read a lot of people revving them to 8500 and up to 9500. My brother in laws scooter is a completely stock gy6 and his is revving 8300.
In stock form I was getting 7.2hp sae corrected
With the dr pulley variator , 13g sliders and new clutch it went to 7.5hp sae corrected
It is much more pleasant to ride now. Cruising at 35 to 45 is a lot less effort on the throttle and it seems way smoother.
I want to work on the take off. I'd love to have a stronger take off from lights and stop signs.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 21, 2017 10:38:44 GMT -5
We would love to see some pics of the Dyno runs. and especially the Dyno Chart, post up some pics.
At what rpm did you get your hp numbers from?
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 21, 2017 11:05:39 GMT -5
True I guess I could start the dyno once it goes into high gear. If I start it low I get a quick rise on the chart then it starts dropping as it goes in to high gear. I got the variator, clutch, bell and torque spring put on last night. I used the 13g sliders, yellow torque spring and blue clutch springs. Acceleration on the road improved but I'm having an issue with top speed because it don't want to rev much over 7000 rpm. It doesn't matter if I'm on a long straight or going down hill. I have a couple guesses on this but not sure any of them make sense. 1) I didn't get the exhaust done so would the stock muffler be so restrictive it's stopping the engine from revving any higher? 2) is it running to lean and not letting it rev out? Haven't checked it on the dyno but plug looks lean 3) are 13g sliders to heavy to let it rev? The stock weights were 14g 4) would the stock zuma cdi be limited to around 7000? It's an 02 50cc cdi Also I thought the stock belt would be 842 since it is the long case but it has an 835. Do you think that would be to short to let the variator close all the way? There is a decent size gap between the top and where the belt is going to. I'm not sure if I should keep testing or not. I'm afraid of taking the clutch apart again because the threads on the big nut didn't look good when I took it apart. It went back together fine and tightened up good but I don't have an extra if it strips. Stock Headpipe Pics. www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/81-150cc-stock-head-pipe-woes/This was my Headpipe. They Welded the Flange on incorrect then left the Flashing and a Goober of Weld behind. The Stock Headpipe is Smaller than your Exhaust Port. The First mod I would recommend would be a Proper Pipe then Uni Filter, and jet the Stock Carb. Also Check your Belt Climb, Draw a line with a Sharpie and see if our using al the Vari face available. |
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Post by jjt on Aug 23, 2017 7:17:58 GMT -5
I'll take pics of the chart today and see if I can figure out how to post them. I was making a muffler but haven't had time to finish it but after reading your last post I ordered a new exhaust with a new head pipe. It's the ssp-g 2nd gen stainless exhaust with a round muffler. I'm hoping it's a decent exhaust. I'm guessing it will be heavy. I already have a single pod style air filter on it because when I swapped the 2stroke 50cc motor for the gy6 150cc I had to come up with something. It's a pretty crappy looking cheap set up but it works and I'll make something nicer looking this winter. I drilled the jets that are currently in the carb but I ordered a jet assortment and it came in yesterday. I'm hoping when the exhaust comes the muffler is open enough to put a sniffer in so I can get it jetted. If it's not I'll have to weld an o2 bung in it.
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Post by jjt on Aug 24, 2017 23:22:41 GMT -5
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 25, 2017 19:05:54 GMT -5
You don't want to run a heavier torque spring unless you've got belt slipping.
You don't have the horse power waste on excessive belt tension
Just use liter than stock veriator sliders
It does the same thing but with more power to the wheel
Try to get your clutch to grab just before or the same RPM as the veriator starts to climb and that should be at a about 6000 RPM for best launch
Using light weight sliders does NOT reduce top speed.
But worn out belts and veriators do
Light weight sliders do however use more gas until the variator maxed out but then it's all the same
You know when your veriator is maxed out as RPM will start to climb
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Post by jjt on Aug 25, 2017 19:14:11 GMT -5
I have the 13g sliders in now. Was thinking about trying the 11g to see the difference
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 25, 2017 19:54:28 GMT -5
You don't want to run a heavier torque spring unless you've got belt slipping. You don't have the horse power waste on excessive belt tension Just use liter than stock veriator sliders It does the same thing but with more power to the wheel Try to get your clutch to grab just before or the same RPM as the veriator starts to climb and that should be at a about 6000 RPM for best launch Using light weight sliders does NOT reduce top speed. But worn out belts and veriators do Light weight sliders do however use more gas until the variator maxed out but then it's all the same You know when your veriator is maxed out as RPM will start to climb  Chewy's right on the $$$$ here. Mine is set up to launch at around 6,200....... |
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