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Post by tvnacman on Jan 2, 2016 15:30:34 GMT -5
You should have full battery voltage at the red wire on the ignition switch (Key off) . I think the fuse might be a problem or the wire from the fuse to the ignition switch. Check the voltage at the regulator (red wire). The regulator and ignition red wire come off the fuse. A short in the regulator can give you bad voltage readings, see if the voltage comes up if you unplug the regulator ( after you checked the fuse).
John
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Post by username on Jan 2, 2016 15:46:06 GMT -5
Key off 3v across fuse
Key on 9v across fuse
Will check with regulator out now
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Post by username on Jan 2, 2016 15:52:46 GMT -5
Red wire on regulator getting 9v
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Post by username on Jan 2, 2016 16:10:45 GMT -5
Regulator plugged in key off 3v
Regulator plugged in key on 10v just about
Regulator plugged out same results as above for key on and off
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Post by username on Jan 2, 2016 16:21:07 GMT -5
Ok I assume it is the fuse confirm if this is a correct test please. With black probe on the negative battery terminal if I put the red prob on the side of the fuse closest the battery I get the full 12v if I put it on the other I only get 3v
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Post by username on Jan 2, 2016 17:08:06 GMT -5
Ok I'm missing something here without the fuse in everything works fine. Indicators horn etc with it in they stop working now there is 1 large red wire coming from the battery to the solenoid and 1 small red wire this is what has the fuse on and like you said that goes to the ignition and regulator. Now the confusing part is with no fuse so no power going to the ignition and regulator is still get power now a full 12v if I put the probe on the negative battery terminal and put it on each side of the connector where the fuse sits I get a full 12 v if I put the fuse in and put a probe on each side of it I get nothing a cross the fuse but with 1 probe on negative battery terminal and red on fuse holder I get 12v at both sides... Anyway seems like it is the fuse so I'm not going to start it up till that's replaced to avoid blowing something.
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 2, 2016 17:58:19 GMT -5
OK you must be missing something here. Trace the heavy wire off the positive battery to the solenoid sometimes they make connections there .
John
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Post by username on Jan 4, 2016 11:29:57 GMT -5
Quick question and I think I already know the answer is no but I have been reading up on fuses I have ordered some 12v 15a fuses to replace the faulty one, I have read a few posts saying its is the amperage that blows a fuse not the volts so I was wondering if temporarily I can put a 250v 15a fuse in place till the new ones arrive in 2 days or even better to get me to my local parts store to get one.
Thanks
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 4, 2016 12:41:23 GMT -5
I would use it.
John
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Post by username on Jan 7, 2016 17:39:17 GMT -5
Yep ran a standard 250v 13a cartridge fuse for a few days worked fine. Got issues with it stalling out every time I decelerate or let it idle for a few seconds even with the idle screw quite high to the point of it spinning the wheel it will after a few seconds die out, I tried adjusting the fuel air screw. I'm guessing seeing as I replaced to stock air box that was stolen with a k&n air filter with plastic cover it may be getting too much air now. It would make sence as if I try to start it it really struggles but if I pump the throttle a few times to get some gas in first it fires up straight away but as soon as that extra gas is burnt it dies off within a few seconds again. I'm guessing I need a bigger idle jet if I'm to stick with the k&n filter?
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 7, 2016 19:52:11 GMT -5
Yep ran a standard 250v 13a cartridge fuse for a few days worked fine. Got issues with it stalling out every time I decelerate or let it idle for a few seconds even with the idle screw quite high to the point of it spinning the wheel it will after a few seconds die out, I tried adjusting the fuel air screw. I'm guessing seeing as I replaced to stock air box that was stolen with a k&n air filter with plastic cover it may be getting too much air now. It would make sence as if I try to start it it really struggles but if I pump the throttle a few times to get some gas in first it fires up straight away but as soon as that extra gas is burnt it dies off within a few seconds again. I'm guessing I need a bigger idle jet if I'm to stick with the k&n filter? I think you're on the right track, upjetting should help. |
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 7, 2016 20:06:58 GMT -5
what about a sock over the filter
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Post by username on Jan 16, 2016 10:12:02 GMT -5
i replaced the carb for a grand total of £16 and that resolved the issue.
i have an issue with just my indicators now if anyone can help? they very rarely work...
if i am at full revs and i mean full they will start to work and work fine, and on very rare occasions they will work on idle for a few seconds before going out but this is rare. i dont even get the lights on my dash coming on. now i thought it might be the flasher but if i press my alarm on my fob the indicators work perfectly fine with that. so that would indicate the flasher is fine?
the indicators used to work with the power on but engine not running, im assuming that means they are part of the AC system?
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