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Post by junkman on Apr 19, 2017 15:33:38 GMT -5
Thanks for your input everyone, I'm in the UK, a quick google seems to suggest cancelling the reg is not a thing here. I went the safe route and called the insurer, they made a 'notification' of the theft, because I didn't want to claim, and also didn't want to cancel the insurance in case the bike turned up (the rest of the year I'd paid was non-refundable). They assured me there would be no issue if the thief decided to ram my bike into some poor third party's car or something similar.
Anyway, this turned out to be a relatively smart move as today the bike turned up. It is not as I remember it (it needs a new front mudguard, new speedo cable, new reg. plate, new ignition barrel, and home-made repairs to the mountings of the front and rear lights - that's just to get it road worthy again, there's cosmetic damage/bits missing too). Paid 150 bones for the privilege of the haulage company giving it back to me so I could push it 2 miles home, when if they'd just called me when it was found I'd have only had to push it half a mile, and not pay them anything. Bunch of savages in this town.
(And I did consider the write-off route, but decided that for all the hassle, this will still come out more economical)
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Post by junkman on Apr 17, 2017 15:20:07 GMT -5
Hi all, so my scoot is gone and probs not coming back. Don't want to get into the whole story here - what I'm wondering is, do I have to tell my insurers? There's no benefit to me in telling them as far as I can see - the excess payable is greater than the value of the bike, and telling them it was nicked will just make them up my premiums if I use them in future.
What if I ring them and tell them it was stolen but that I won't be making a claim - would that be a workaround? Would I avoid losing my no-claims bonus that way? I've never been forcibly rendered the ex-owner of a bike before, this is all new to me, so thanks for any help.
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Post by junkman on Jan 26, 2017 11:05:06 GMT -5
Right, final update - it now runs! I'm not sure why, or why it wasn't before, which is slightly unsettling. Basically I tried cranking it for 10 seconds and got nothing, waited 15 seconds, did it again and got a few kicks, waited another 15, tried again and it ran (this is with the kill switch reconnected too) It doesn't usually need that sort of faffing about, and now seems to have gone back to starting straight away as before. Odd! Anyway, thanks again to everyone who chipped in!
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Post by junkman on Jan 26, 2017 8:01:27 GMT -5
Ok kill switch bypassed, i checked to make sure I still have a spark - but still won't start!
Thanks to everyone who has replied so far, any more ideas?
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Post by junkman on Jan 23, 2017 12:06:35 GMT -5
I have compression - did the finger-pop test.
Not sure which light you mean, I have no immobiliser - I'm getting the correct lights on the dash (red oil indicator and the green headlamp indicator).
Further development - I've found my kill switch is a bit dodgy. With multimeter probes inserted across the wires you can see that the kill switch only works properly in a certain sweet spot. But the bike still won't start even with the switch in that spot
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Post by junkman on Jan 22, 2017 15:48:24 GMT -5
Hi all, riding an Aprilia Mojito Custom '07, 125. So the problem:
-A bunch of electrics went out - headlight, rear light, fuel gauge etc. So I took off the apron, and eventually found there was a bad connection around one of the fuses. Cleaned that up, and now all the electrics were back on, only...
-Now it won't run! I can turn the key for 15 seconds and it might weakly kick once or twice. This was only hours after having last ridden it, and before all this it was starting straight away. I'm getting a spark, can clearly smell fuel on turn-over, spark plug comes out wet afterwards.
-I thought maybe I broke some other weak connection somewhere while unplugging stuff to diagnose the first problem - in particular I saw that one of the other fuses leads to the automatic choke. But there is current going to the choke (8-9v DC - I also checked the resistance across the terminals for good measure - 25 ohms), so that doesn't seem to be the issue.
Thanks for reading!
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