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Post by lonestarcruzer on Jan 27, 2017 14:39:37 GMT -5
Well, the Gy6 bike has been put aside for a moment until I finish painting the fairings. I have it idling with the new carb and high-flow pod filter. It is idling a bit high for what I'm used to working on motorcycle engines, and the wheel will spin up on the center stand. I don't have the seat mounted and haven't taken it for a ride, and haven't hooked up the gauges yet. What RPM is normal for Gy6 engines to idle at? 1000-1250 is what I shoot for on most bikes. I remember reading somewhere that 1700 is what to tune the carb/idle for, I think that's around where I have it tuned to, turning the throttle screw back any stalls the bike even with idle fuel adjustment.
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Post by lonestarcruzer on Jan 18, 2017 14:53:36 GMT -5
So, I have the wiring harness hooked back up and the bike is about 80% put back together. I'm trying to get her fired up, I was having issues keeping her idling with the stock carb and figured it needed fuel/air mix adjusted since I went to a pod filter (if I held my hand over the air intake it would start and idle but once I took my hand away it would die). I got a new carb, and it already is more willing to start up but it just won't. If I put a little starting fluid in her and crank her up, she'll stay running as long as I have the throttle open a bit. I'm assuming this means she's running rich. Before I go off messing with the adjustment screw I wanted y'alls opinion, and also advice on which way turning the screw leans out and enriches the mixture.
It's a 150cc gy6.
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Post by lonestarcruzer on Jan 14, 2017 15:44:43 GMT -5
So, my friend saw the bike and wanted it for his first bike. I'd rather have him learn to ride on it than make it share ride time with 2 or 3 other bikes in my garage. He's getting it as kind of a present after he gets his class M endorsement, and I'm gussying her up something fierce.  So far, I've eliminated the unnecessary emissions parts, restored and painted the engine, 11-pole stator upgrade, new CDI, new battery, new coil+wire+plug, new hoses/lines, plastic engine shroud delete, replaced all rusted bolts with grade 8 american steel, every piece cleaned, and oh yea, probably  % of the bike got repainted black/orange. I still need to wire in the new rectifier/regulator and finish up the plastics. Also thinking about changing out the exhaust, but I don't want to drop much more money on the bike, after everything is said and done I'll only have $500 into the bike (and about 60 hours) including the purchase price. |
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Post by lonestarcruzer on Dec 17, 2016 11:23:35 GMT -5
this is one of the major advantages of getting a twist and go bike in the first place. another advantage is that both brake levers are on the handlebars. getting a gearbox would negate both of those. the CVT is really simple to service, the only piece that is difficult to service is the clutch, and it can be replaced as a unit. It's a habit thing for me. I've been riding motorcycles for 13 years, and everything is muscle memory when I'm in that riding position (my scoot is the super hornet, which is a motorcycle profile). I haven't been able to ride it yet, still getting the gremlins from sitting 2 years out of it and upgrading to 11 pole stator and 12V lighting (LED) before I go cruise around on it. It could be a non-issue, or I could mangle my right leg when I need to hard brake. I'll probably do a rear brake conversion at some point just to keep from developing bad habits (if I keep it). |
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Post by lonestarcruzer on Dec 16, 2016 13:13:14 GMT -5
Yea, I got a 'kit' off amazon with an orange CDI and wire and plug, but the plug didn't fit either the stock or aftermarket wire and the wire was broken at the spark plug boot. The CDI DID allow the old wire and plug to make spark, but it still didn't fire up. I'm going to be changing out all the fuel lines and putting new gas in next... hmm, now that I'm typing this, maybe the fact that I removed the stock air box and haven't hooked any vacuum lines back up could be causing an issue too.
So now that I know it's the CDI, has anyone had any experience with the adjustable CDI? Seems like it would be nice for tuning, but it could just be a gimmick.
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Post by lonestarcruzer on Dec 14, 2016 12:55:31 GMT -5
Pleasure to meet y'all.
I recently purchased a Roma 150 'super hornet' with an LK157QMJ (a 157QMJ with bottom mount). She's got less than 1k miles on it, and picked it up for $300. I'm just south of Dallas Texas and frequently fix and flip motorcycles. My daily driver right now is a Kawasaki ZG1000. I had a Grom for about a year, and I started missing it, so I picked up the Roma.
What I know is wrong with the scoot right now; it cranks but gets no spark, new CDI plug and wire on the way. The ignition switch is a bit finicky, going to get it running before messing with that. Cheap Chinese fuel and vacuum lines are cracking and need replacing. Some lines are just flat out disconnected from where they should be.
Plans for the scoot; black and metallic deep orange paint (unless I just don't like the scoot, then it's getting pink and green and going to my friend), 30mm flat-side carb, rear brake relocate, BBK if I can find a reputable machine shop near me, velocity stack pod filter, custom exhaust. I'd love to get rid of the CVT and get a gearbox but that doesn't seem realistic for the cost/benefit.
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% of the bike got repainted black/orange. I still need to wire in the new rectifier/regulator and finish up the plastics. Also thinking about changing out the exhaust, but I don't want to drop much more money on the bike, after everything is said and done I'll only have $500 into the bike (and about 60 hours) including the purchase price.