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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 8, 2015 18:41:32 GMT -5
something went wrong. oil is all over the ground underneath it. won't barely start at all now. when it does it idles bad.
ugghhhhhh
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 7, 2015 13:37:39 GMT -5
I'm getting to a point where I'm running out of things to fix. it wasn't hard to start this morning, but did take about 10 seconds, then it kept wanting to cut off, especially when I gave it throttle. after a couple of minutes it idled ok. I messed with the cdi, turning it to the left (counterclockwise) made it idle higher, to the right idle lower. I'm assuming left is advance? I dunno I may pop the oem back on to see if it's right. after messing with that and the idle screws, I'd turn it off and it was hesitant to start again, then after about a half hour of messing it just shut off. so i said some unholy things at it and we went our separate ways. it didn't go anywhere actually, it wouldn't start. I went my own way, which is right here apparently.
there was some light smoke coming out of the pcv breather when it was idling at one point. probably normal right? I noticed there is a couple small chunks missing from my shroud near the spark plug, could that be allowing it to get too hot and not want to crank?
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 6, 2015 23:02:27 GMT -5
well I drove it hard to the store a mile or more so away, uphill downhill stop lights etc., it got plenty warm and crankrd when I left the store (5 minutes tops?) then I got back and drove it around the neighborhood, it stalled again at my driveway and was really hard to start again but eventually did. I'm wondering if my orange adjustable cdi is set wrong now. might pop in the stock one and see tomorrow. but progress!! it wouldn't start at the store with the 24 or after a trip around the neighborhood. I'll fiddle with the carb and swap the cdi and report.
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 6, 2015 16:53:12 GMT -5
ok so I think I've solved it. I installed the 30mm pumper carb and let it warm up, one I dialed in the screws it seemed to want to restart. I'll test it when it's a bit cooler this evening and report back.
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Jet cracked
by: stellarfoxy - Jul 2, 2015 17:57:41 GMT -5
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 2, 2015 17:57:41 GMT -5
I had that happen with an ebay idle jet except the whole side broke off. it ran ok but too rich so to remove it I hammered a small Phillips head screwdriver into the hole and just unscrewed it.
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Chinese tachs
by: stellarfoxy - Jul 2, 2015 17:54:12 GMT -5
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 2, 2015 17:54:12 GMT -5
I know my speedometer is way off. it said I was going 70+ mph at 5500ish rpm. the speed limit was 45, I was behind a car. I think my whole cluster is messed up.
any chance that at low rpm the tach misses some signals and can read low but once it's revved the signals are stronger and it reads more correctly?
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Chinese tachs
by: stellarfoxy - Jul 1, 2015 21:53:37 GMT -5
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 1, 2015 21:53:37 GMT -5
this might help the discussion. at times during the video my tach says it's idling as low as 500 rpm (closer to the beginning and very end). this apparently isn't possible. but upon revving it will go easily to/past 7000. it obviously isn't going 14000, so mines not reading half, yet...
so what's up with my tach? also this is the first thing I've ever shot/edited/uploaded entirely on a cell phone, sorry for the poor quality.
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Chinese tachs
by: stellarfoxy - Jul 1, 2015 9:01:50 GMT -5
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jul 1, 2015 9:01:50 GMT -5
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jun 30, 2015 23:08:53 GMT -5
after riding today about 5 miles up and down hill with stop lights, traffic, etc. it stalled at a light about 4.7 miles into the trip at a stoplight. I was able to safely walk it to a bus stop and adjusted the idle screw and it fired up fairly quickly, set it to 1800rpm, and went the rest of the way just fine. on the return trip about 3 hours later, it drove like a champ all the way. i had to rush back out so I didn't get to try and start it again but a couple hours later I took it to the gas station to fill it up from empty ($2.30 whaaaat) and had to do the idle thing again to get it started but again no issues after that. got it home and tried to restart it but it won't fire until I drop the idle then one it's started set the screw again. any ideas? or do I just wait for the better carb to get here?
also it didn't want to pull much past 5500rpm, which I assume is around 50mph with 13g sliders on stock clutch judging by traffic. maybe I need a longer run or something but woo 50ish feels zippy on this thing
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jun 30, 2015 8:32:15 GMT -5
I just ordered the best-looking Chinese knockoff carb I could find on ebay. with the current jets in the carb I have it's not turning white but still impossible to start right after driving it around. it's got something to do with the idle screw because even when it's cold if I raise the idle to run smooth it won't start once it's off. I need to mess with it more I suppose.
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jun 29, 2015 8:45:59 GMT -5
yeah I didn't realize it until you were saying 130 was too big but my 125 was reading a little lean lol. thank you so much for the help, I was just hoping to narrow up the places I'm looking. you've all been incredibly helpful! I'll update if anything gets fixed!
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jun 28, 2015 20:58:14 GMT -5
that's where it is. it was a little low before I think, the tab was pointed upward.
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jun 28, 2015 19:33:49 GMT -5
hello again! I finally got some time to mess with it again, dropped the main jet to the one labeled 115 and the idle to the smallest non-stock one. after going from the 130 to 125, it seemed to lose some torque. seemed even weaker with the 115 and the plug was white after riding. starting it after it was warm was still not possible, but cool-down was around 20 minutes instead of whatever it was before (longer). I think I may have the idle closer now, but the main should be larger than 115. I also doubt my jets are even remotely labeled correctly. that's ok I guess, as long as it runs well and doesn't cook itself.
I've lost more of this tank of gas draining the bowl than driving ):
also I adjusted the float lower and it wouldn't start at all. so... oops. I ended up setting the little metal tab almost flush to the surrounding plastic and it did just fine.
I'm also starting to wonder if my clutch is the problem with it shutting off after giving it gas, it's extremely grabby and I think it's momentarily stopping the engine on initial engagement once it gets any heat in it. either way it sounds like the whole rear end is falling off when I take off from a stop after about 10 minutes of riding.
I may have it in me to take everything off and remove the carb again tonight to put the bigger jet back in and check it out. still no progress on why it isn't cranking when hot.
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jun 27, 2015 8:22:15 GMT -5
yeah a lot of visual inspection was done before insatlling anything. i needed options more than exact numbers lol
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Post by stellarfoxy on Jun 26, 2015 18:16:30 GMT -5
steve- I've messed with the valves and got them where they consistently read .004 intake and .006 exhaust when cold. i though it might be that at first and was disappointed to find it wasn't ):
geh- i need to figure out the quote system. i bought a 26mm carb first and a 24mm later, they were both the same size. go figure.
also, my primary jet was tiny and some holes weren't there, the ones that were there were all different sizes. in the kit i got, the one labeled 35 was biggest and 42 smallest, though it looked the same as the 40. they were stamped with the keihin logo but i seriously doubt they are legit. the 38 broke when i installed it. i guess it's gonna be down to tuning with the plug at this point? i was really just looking for a direction, the concensus seems to be carb tuning. i definitely can fiddle with that until results improve. I'm glad it didn't seem to be blown rings or burnt valves to anyone. I'll probably get on it tonight and give her a go.
thanks to everyone so far, your help has been invaluable.
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