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Post by rich on Dec 27, 2015 11:49:44 GMT -5
Unplugged stator plug, cranked at idle: green to white = 18vac Yellow to white = 3 vac White to green = 16vac Volts increased with rpms. Did notice stator plug was really loose so I tightened up the metal contacts in the plug and made sure they made a good connection, now the highest volt reading I can get out of headlights, is around 25-28 vac when reving. Go back to the stator unplug it, get voltage measurements with the engine revved up 3 4000rpm. yellow to white, yellow to green, white to green. this is very important. We need to see the output of the stator with no load. John Will do this in a few and get back to you
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Post by rich on Dec 27, 2015 11:49:12 GMT -5
correct me if i'm wrong, but doesn't some of these 50cc jobs headlights run directly off the stator? luckily my scoot doesn't use AC for anything except input to the R/R. i believe my old 50cc had AC lights because they would get brighter and dimmer according to the RPM of the engine. replaced regulator and bulbs, and yes the headlights do brighten when throttle is given.
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Post by rich on Dec 15, 2015 18:41:49 GMT -5
Unplugged stator plug, cranked at idle: green to white = 18vac Yellow to white = 3 vac White to green = 16vac Volts increased with rpms. Did notice stator plug was really loose so I tightened up the metal contacts in the plug and made sure they made a good connection, now the highest volt reading I can get out of headlights, is around 25-28 vac when reving. Go back to the stator unplug it, get voltage measurements with the engine revved up 3 4000rpm. yellow to white, yellow to green, white to green. this is very important. We need to see the output of the stator with no load. John I have no way of telling how many rpms I'm running at.
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Post by rich on Dec 15, 2015 16:34:42 GMT -5
The 100vac at the head light is troubling me. Where is it coming from? Take some readings at the stator plug , unpluged green to white, yellow to white, white to green . at idle and at 3000 rpm. John Unplugged stator plug, cranked at idle: green to white = 18vac Yellow to white = 3 vac White to green = 16vac Volts increased with rpms. Did notice stator plug was really loose so I tightened up the metal contacts in the plug and made sure they made a good connection, now the highest volt reading I can get out of headlights, is around 25-28 vac when reving.
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Post by rich on Dec 15, 2015 10:11:05 GMT -5
from one of your own threads: I bought different colors of 16g wire, and manually ran all the wire from the stator, to the regulator, CDI, etc. itistheride.boards.net/thread/8944/spark-plug-stator-all-replaced if you run AC to the CDI then the CDI must be AC fired, not DC. it sounds as if you might need to rip it all out and start over. personally i would forget about "keeping it original". IOW, go with a strictly DC bike. the only possible problem with this is the autochoke, they might not make a DC autochoke for your ride. in this case you need to tap off one of the stator wires for the choke. one other thing to keep in mind, don't "twist and tape". twisting wires together, then taping them is a temporary solution only. i've rewired my bike, so i can offer some tips and help in this regard. that wasn't my quote. I didn't do any of that.
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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 19:22:21 GMT -5
looks like its getting hot, here is where it gets tricky. You need the proper load to check the voltage. That means you need a good bulb lit while your checking the voltage. Post a pic of your meter and I can tell you the details on how to get a reading. John 100vac when you rev it up, something is wrong I suspect everything connected to that ac circuit is blown. That means you have no load on the system. Be careful.How long ago did you replace the stator (whats the history)? John well...i replaced the stator a few weeks ago when i found out it wasn't pulling any ohms, remember showing me where to get the stator here?: itistheride.boards.net/thread/8927/150cc-stator-plug?page=1&scrollTo=105445but then after replacing stator and still getting no spark I found out the right multifunction switch was bad here: itistheride.boards.net/thread/8944/spark-plug-stator-all-replaced could the regulator be the reason all this crazy voltage is burning everything up?
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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 18:31:05 GMT -5
Well, without bulbs in the sockets, while cranked, I have between 14-16 volts and when I click the high beam switch voltage drops to 4volts (not sure it matters) but again, this is without bulbs installed. Voltage goes through the roof when I give it gas. Up to 100volts
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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 18:19:01 GMT -5
3 clicks to the right, one probe to the white and one to the green (black or red make no difference). So into these green and white going to headlamp harness, while cranked correct?
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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 17:13:57 GMT -5
Here: Plugs for the coil look brown too.
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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 15:40:32 GMT -5
Ok. Bulbs are blown now, and plugs are burned. Is this caused by a bad regulator?
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Post by rich on Dec 14, 2015 15:25:01 GMT -5
Headlights have gone out for a second time now. I already replaced the switch once, but now that there is all new stator, coil, CDI, etc I'm sure something else had to go wrong. Looking passed the obvious fact that these scooters have voltage issues and continuously burn out components, switches, etc What is the quickest way to track down my head light issue with my multimeter?
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Post by rich on Nov 29, 2015 19:53:16 GMT -5
It's nuts just how many electrical issues this thing runs into... You have not seen anything yet. John Jeez. What trips me out is how A is fine until you Fix B then C and A go bad. It's like wack a mole with these electrical systems and components!
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Post by rich on Nov 29, 2015 15:47:54 GMT -5
Ended up being my right hand switch. Pulled it off and apart to look at lead solders on the plastic inside and a green had been shorting down to a black lead at the solder. Scrapped and cleaned jumped solder and now she sparks. Amazing.
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Post by rich on Nov 29, 2015 14:45:49 GMT -5
Still ordered a new multifunction switch for that side but for now, I cleaned this one up and scraped away where solder had jumped over. Now she scoots down the road. It's nuts just how many electrical issues this thing runs into...
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Post by rich on Nov 29, 2015 12:43:45 GMT -5
Ok. That's definitely the issue. I left the multimeter probe on continuity setting, seated in the #5 wire plug to CDI and began moving the harness around. Once the beeping stopped. I plugged it back in and she cranked again. So...yeah, looks like I'll be stripping the harness down and inspecting the entire thing. Joy joy found it! It was the switch after all. Removed it to look inside (even though the kill works) and bam. Now to find a replacement, get it running and run into more problems in another week or so I just wanna ride!!!
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