New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 10, 2013 15:19:00 GMT -5
|
Post by drtitus on Mar 11, 2013 20:24:27 GMT -5
Solved with a Motobatt!  Just needed a new battery  The battery compartment is such that the battery is mounted on its side - SLA batteries don't seem to like this, and the clock drain can't have helped the battery's charge - it was probably not right from the beginning. This new Motobatt fired it up straight away with full force, and I rode home with a huge grin. When I got home I couldn't believe how well it worked. I waited an hour, then went outside and started my bike 10 times in a row, giving no gas, just to hear the battery doing an awesome job. This was unthinkable before. I couldn't notice any slowdown or audible difference after 10, and I stopped just so I didn't annoy the neighbours. I'm in such a better mood today from just being able to "start anywhere" - I'm a Motobatt convert! Thanks for the help guys. After explaining the situation it did seem like a power problem, I just didn't realise how much better a different type of battery was going to be. I thought I'd be killing batteries until I replaced the right part   |
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 10, 2013 15:19:00 GMT -5
|
Post by drtitus on Mar 10, 2013 23:35:54 GMT -5
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 10, 2013 15:19:00 GMT -5
|
Post by drtitus on Mar 10, 2013 23:35:11 GMT -5
I just got home and I realised I have misinformed you. My engine code is LP1P58MJ (not the one I originally posted, that was from memory). I also have a different manual to the one you posted, though it's also a CFMOTO one. It's the manual for the e-Jewel not the e-Charm. "CF150T(E-Jewel) Maintenance Manual.pdf" - mine isn't fuel injected, it's got a carburetor.
I've organised to pick up a new Motobatt battery tomorrow which has a 24 month warranty. How shall I test the charging system? Putting an ammeter in series with a battery lead once the bike is running? I've seen that it reads 14.5V across the battery when going, and doesn't go above this.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 10, 2013 15:19:00 GMT -5
|
Post by drtitus on Mar 10, 2013 20:12:00 GMT -5
tvnacmac: Not sure of the exact RPM sorry, it's high enough to be outputting 14.4V, but not high enough to be turning the back wheel once the auto choke has done its thing. JR: Yup, that's the manual I found online. I figured the battery is dead, so I will need to get a new one now anyway. I was planning on getting a Motobatt - their marketing looks good  I will probably get a Motobatt charger with it so I can be sure not to void the warranty with improper care. I realise that jumping a scooter isn't good for the battery, but with no kick start, there are not many options. Do these performance CDIs actually make starting any easier? Should I invest in one at the same time? Would it be worth getting a new starter motor as well just in case, or are they either going or not? |
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 10, 2013 15:19:00 GMT -5
|
Post by drtitus on Mar 10, 2013 19:02:53 GMT -5
tvnacman: It's a standard air filter, though I usually have it off when I'm having starting problems. It is even harder to start with the air filter still on. Everything is standard as far as I know, apart from my valve adjustments. I have tweaked the air/fuel screw to get a peak idle, though after doing the valves again I haven't repeated it. I know where the CDI is. Do you want me to take measurements?
Alleyoop: Thanks for the suggestions. The cable from the positive terminal to the solenoid is looking a bit rusty and could probably be better, but it does seem to operate. I measured it with an ohmmeter to see if it was significantly resistive but it didn't register as anything but a short. If I short the terminals of the solenoid, it clicks and the starter turns as its supposed to. Obviously with a low battery it doesn't turn much, but with a fresh one everything appears normal.
It does actually run fine, and with a lot of power it starts first pop, but it doesn't want to start with much less than a perfect battery. I just spent an hour with it on charge and trying to start it every 10 mins or so, finally got it going. Towards the end I heard the occasional pop while turning over. I feel like I need either an extreme battery, or a starter motor that doesn't take much to turn (or a friggin kick start!).
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 10, 2013 15:19:00 GMT -5
|
Post by drtitus on Mar 10, 2013 15:56:43 GMT -5
Hey everyone,
I've been following the GY6 threads from the old scootdawg forum, and been really tearing my hair out trying to get my Torpedo starting reliably.
It is an Italjet Torpedo 150, which uses a water cooled 1P57QMJ. It starts mostly fine from a fresh/new battery, or from a weak battery and a car battery charger. If it sits for more than about 45 minutes it won't start again. It'll turn over and sound like everything's good but the engine doesn't fire. The thing which makes it really annoying is that it doesn't have a kick start! It means if I don't start my bike soon enough, or it doesn't fire within the first 7 seconds or so, I have to charge my battery again, or be near a mains outlet and jump it.
I have read all the stuff about the valve adjustment, and I tried setting my valves to 0.04 and 0.05 or whatever for the standard GY6. It maybe changed the way my engine ran ever so slightly, but the starting problem wasn't fixed. I then realised I had the "2 bolt valve cover" and identified my engine as the CFMOTO 1P57QMJ. I found the service manual on-line and it specified IN: 0.05mm and EX: 0.20mm which I've also tried. I like the way it runs now, but still, the starting problem is there.
I thought my other battery was dead, so I bought a new one and I found that the LCD clock was broken and constantly draining 11mA whether the key was on or not. I removed that from the circuit, and I thought I had solved it (easy starting with a new battery), but given one hard to start moment (whether it be a morning or cold) the engine won't fire. It drains the battery to a point it won't start unassisted.
I have been putting it on charge with a car battery to try and start it, and even then I have to leave it charging for 15 minutes or so to "top up" the battery before it'll start the bike. The battery has now swollen, and I suspect is performing badly. I don't want to get another just yet, until I know my bike will start well - it's very much a chicken and egg situation!
When starting the bike, the starter motor doesn't always turn, it sounds like it is "stuck" but this could just be because the battery is low in power. I haven't yet removed and checked the starter for dirt - it does seem to turn fine with a fresh battery. Do starter motors become electrically harder to turn as they age? Will a fresh starter motor be easier on my battery?
I have read that the CDIs are AC powered, and what it "feels like" to me is that it's not turning over fast enough to generate a good amount of power to run the CDI properly. (At this point I have the air filter off, and I can smell fuel) I have tried testing the spark plug against the frame, with both another plug in the engine to give compression, and without one, and under both circumstances it gives a spark. With a spark plug providing compression the spark is yellower - can a weak spark cause starting problems?
Should I get a new starter motor? I've put in new plugs, different plugs, changed the gap, adjusted the valves, put in a new battery.. I am starting to think it just needs lots of power!
It's driving me nuts, I'm almost tempted to put a solar panel and a dual battery setup into it, just to know I've always got enough juice to start, but I'd really like a more "elegant" solution. I've ordered replacement CDI and coil - do I need a performance CDI? Are they worth getting?
Should I just shell out for a good quality 9AH battery to replace the shitty swollen 7AH Poweroad that my bike just ate? What would you do next?
|
|
The battery compartment is such that the battery is mounted on its side - SLA batteries don't seem to like this, and the clock drain can't have helped the battery's charge - it was probably not right from the beginning. This new Motobatt fired it up straight away with full force, and I rode home with a huge grin. When I got home I couldn't believe how well it worked. I waited an hour, then went outside and started my bike 10 times in a row, giving no gas, just to hear the battery doing an awesome job. This was unthinkable before. I couldn't notice any slowdown or audible difference after 10, and I stopped just so I didn't annoy the neighbours.