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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 8, 2015 13:23:40 GMT -5
yes i do
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 8, 2015 13:12:16 GMT -5
Just got it up to 55!  Its max speed. So, all good! |
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 8, 2015 8:45:10 GMT -5
i adjusted the a/f screw and it went richer to get to the highest idle then i backed it off 1/8 of a turn the other way. I even put in the original pilot jet and same result... I will keep an eye on it till this coming weekend when a friend is going to look at it for me. Ill keep you posted for sure!
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 7, 2015 18:29:32 GMT -5
..the light just fixed itself.. feel free to close the thread.. thanx everyone! what are bones btw?
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 6, 2015 21:39:32 GMT -5
I'm gonna wait on the belt, as it looks like the frame is slightly in the way and I read of people having to actually break off metal on the case to get it off without dropping the whole engine. Oh well. Now only that pesky brake light!...
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 6, 2015 19:15:14 GMT -5
Well, after adjusting the a/f screw and then the idle...again... it bogged at @5k again so I took blue painters tape and blocked half the inlet and took it to get PREMIUM gas and it got up to 40 on a 35 road no problem at all! Id go faster but i was already speeding... Tomorrow ill try to hit 50 and see if i'm back to good. Now to install that Gates belt...
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 5, 2015 14:54:12 GMT -5
full fuel system flush is way more than i wanna or know how to get into.. funny, but this actually was the only time it had regular in it cause i was in a pinch and took some of my friends gas out of a can to work on it. but it didn't sit for more that 2 days ever even with it not being ride-able. i try to let it run 10 to 20 minutes a day with it sitting in the 40 degree garage all winter if i cant take it out. and thanks for the welcome! guitar is my therapy. self taught by ear so i know i could use some work there too, but that's another forum...
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 5, 2015 14:40:00 GMT -5
just adjusted to .004, .004 and it started fine, idled fine, but again at @5k this time, the bogging.. Also, same issue with the inlet. (fully open, bogging, fully restricted, bogging, half restricted, better but bogging, quick on-and-off of the inlet, vrooOOMMM!!!!) I didnt adjust the a/f screw yet though as its 30 degrees where im working so i can only do it in short bursts. ill update in a little bit after i adjust the screw and TRY to take it a mile away to get gas. Wish me luck
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 4, 2015 13:33:26 GMT -5
... I am 99% sure that I am adjusting the valves correctly. I have not touched anything else that might have affected anything I am almost sure.
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 4, 2015 13:23:44 GMT -5
 Stupid question.. If when I only partially block the inlet, it revs up, but not totally restricted or unrestricted, would it be OK to just fix something over half of the inlet and see how it runs on the road? All the cables and connections are good and tight... 1drv.ms/1uYiXjR (the pic didn't show up for some reason on my page so there is the link) |
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 4, 2015 13:03:43 GMT -5
I will do that now. I just took off the air box completely and checked all hoses and plastic for cracks. I sprayed carb cleaner all around and no change in idle speed. Only when I cap it on and off with my sleeve. If I just hold my sleve over the intake it still WILL NOT rev all the way up. ONLY if I do the on and off thing will it rev without bogging. Does that make sense? Ill go get those pics...
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 4, 2015 11:51:16 GMT -5
By the way, as soon as it cools down in 2 hours ill make them both .004 instead and see what that does. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 4, 2015 11:32:26 GMT -5
I get to step #4 in the tuning guide but can not get to #5..
I noticed last night that the connection to my coil was sparking but i tightened that up a small amount and its no longer lose and doesnt spark. I bought a new coil but the stock one I have gas 1 circular tip and one prong. The new one has 2 prongs so I can't even test that at the moment. I have tried a new CDI as well as the old one. I have even tried taking my main jet out of the carb I recently replaced and swapped it with the new, unmarked one figuring it USED to run fine even without the carb.
Thanks a LOT for working with me here! I'll fallow your directions 1-by-1 and have hope we will get these small kinks ironed out and I can get it back in the wind.
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 3, 2015 18:36:35 GMT -5
I'm in Jersey too! Mercer.. My carb is brand new so I don't think that's it, but I am a computer guy so what do I know!? I'll get back out there in the morning and see what I can come up with. To be continued......
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 3, 2015 17:08:40 GMT -5
So..... after a few days and trying different settings and the suggested settings over and over, it's still not there. Here's what the end results have been so far; if it starts fine, revs fine, and idles fine, I have NO power when I actually try to ride it... as in can't get out the driveway. After adjusting the gap smaller it will start fine with a little sputter during idle and will not rev past 3k without bogging out. If i cover the air inlet on the box the revs go SLIGHTLY up while I have the throttle open but heres where I get confused.... if I take my hand on and off the inlet in 1 second intervals, after 2 or 3 times the rpm shoot WAY up fast as lightning!?!... I just went back to the .004, .005 and it started up, idled for about 5 minutes, then stalled and wont start back up for the last 10 minutes. I thought this would be an in-and-out kinda job. Why would it be giving me soo much trouble? I really thought I was 98% there untill the no power thing, and even then I figured a simple adjustment of the A/F screw would dial me in. No such luck!
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