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Post by lain on Jun 9, 2015 12:35:57 GMT -5
Well it smoked after putting some oil on the valves. The chain still seems lubricated, just the top end does not seem lubricated after letting it sit. I have not checked right after running because I do not want to stress the threads and strip one. Do I have to drain the oil before working on the pump? I am checking the manual now, seems it cracks open right under the flywheel basically? The manual does not say anything about oil in this part though. Ask GEH to write up a little tutorial on this - he just did the job a few months back if I remember correctly. Your chain would be getting oil from dipping into the sump and the oil therein, not from the top end oil system. As someone (maybe GEH) suggested, pull the valve cover and turn the engine over by hand. You should see some oil seeping out from the valve carrier. If not, either blocked poil passage or faulty oil pump or no oil in the engine. Does the oil flow up the engine rods? I do not see any other place besides the chain that the oil could come from. Page 22 of the gy6 service manual I got from this forum shows a diagram that kind of looks like it flows up the rods? But the rods are covered by the cam and nuts right? So how would that work?
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Post by lain on Jun 9, 2015 10:44:58 GMT -5
Oil pump is on the side, not the top. Leaking valve can lead to a burned valve, and thus more of a leaky valve. In a severe case, maybe, a leaky exhaust valve could heat up the stem and cause the valve seal to fail, but that would just be evidenced by burning oil (smoke). If your oil pump gave up the ghost it's not related in any way to valves. Well it smoked after putting some oil on the valves. The chain still seems lubricated, just the top end does not seem lubricated after letting it sit. I have not checked right after running because I do not want to stress the threads and strip one. Do I have to drain the oil before working on the pump? I am checking the manual now, seems it cracks open right under the flywheel basically? The manual does not say anything about oil in this part though.
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Post by lain on Jun 9, 2015 9:29:53 GMT -5
Would a leaky valve cause the valves to dry out? I do not have overheating issues, still able to take it for a ride and handle the valve cover right after.
Is it possible to remove the engine casing to get to the oil pump to replace it without removing the top end? If I remove the topend I'd have to get a whole new BBK because I do not feel like dealing with issues from honing and new rings and etc.
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Post by lain on Jun 8, 2015 22:27:07 GMT -5
So this guy came by to fix our gutters, he saw me working on my scoot then decided to bring his scoot over to get me to fix it without telling/asking me. So he comes back and leaves the scoot, hops in his truck then says in his broken english; "You fix thanks" and drives off before I can say no.
So all the rubber is dried out and cracked in big ways. The seals leak out the transmission and flywheel. The intake manifold is in horrible shape. The exhaust valve is destroyed, there is a hole in the head a crack by the exhaust port. Even with a gasket it lets in tons of air. I cleaned out the fuel system and replaced the carb and solenoid and plug and coil. Found the ignition was wired to a new ignition switch that did not fit right, the wires were "isolated" with scotch tape -_- ... The scoot has only 10 miles on it and has not ran since 2005.
I told him all the problems and showed him the cracks and leaking seals and he said "nonono thats how motorcycle is. I take now I fix." I told him "no, you pay me for what I've done so far or pay for the parts and additional work." Then he looks at me baffled "pay? I no pay parts. I fix gutters." I tell him "you got paid, by the landlord, to fix the gutters, I had no say in that, if i did I would have fixed them myself. Then you just dropped off your scooter and drove away before I could tell you I do not run a scooter repair shop, but you have come over multiple times asking me if it is done yet, and I have told you already that I would be charging you for the time. Ontop of that I've already bought parts for you with my own money because you said to go ahead and buy them, where you got the idea I am running a charity shop, I do not know." With his baffled look still; "Oh, I fix, I take." So I tell him, "Okay, you can take it when you have the money to pay for the time and parts I've already replaced, here are the receipts" and I hand him the printouts of all the parts I bought on ebay.
Finally after reading the receipts for 15 minutes he says "okay I take, I fix" then I just firmly tell him "I spent my own time, and my own money working on your scooter, you choose not to pay for the parts and the time okay fine, I take the parts I paid for back and put your old ones back." Then he get's all concerned looking "nonono! I need! I need! You keep old!" I tell him "No, you can keep the old parts, if you want the new ones you pay for them." Then he says "okay I pay parts, I no know I have to pay, I think you buy for free you give me free." I said to him then "No, who gives away thier time and money? Did you do the gutters for free?" He says "no." So I tell him slowly "I spent my time, and money, you pay for those or I keep your scooter. You can call the cops, you can bring me to court, no one will tell you I should have bought you parts and did things for you for free when you ask someone to get parts and do things for you. Maybe they will let you take your scooter, but I won't until you pay me. You have refused to give me your address, you do not have a title or origin, no papers at all, claim you bought it at a yard sale, but it was hotwired and I think you stole it." He then says "okay okay i pay I pay" I then totalled up the receipts, and told him $20 for the time, which was actually a lot of time but I want him and his scoot out of here. He tried to ask me free again, I said no, wrote the number down on a piece of paper and told him "you come back tomorrow with this money?" He then said "okay." and then he left.
Long story, yes I know, though in real life it was all of about 5-10 minutes not counting waiting for him to read the receipts. I am hoping he does come back, if he doesn't I'm honestly just going to drop it off at the station and let them deal with what looks like a hot scooter. I could be wrong, but his reaction did not tell me I was wrong. Since he did not deny it I want it gone even more, I do not want to deal with thieves, especially dumb thieves who think people just give away their time and money.
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Post by lain on Jun 8, 2015 21:20:13 GMT -5
The kickstart is meant for and designed as a backup option to get you going if your battery dies. It will be fine as long as you don't kick it too hard and break it, lol. Make sure your key ignition wires are tight and hard to reach, maybe even tie them with zipties to other wires for support so no one can pull it out and kickstart it, and always lock your steering column.
I would personally get a new battery asap, and remove the kickstart lever and keep it in a backpack you never leave with the scoot.
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Post by lain on Jun 8, 2015 15:51:30 GMT -5
So I have messed with everything at this point but the engine itself. No changes nomatter what I do. I reach about 45, hear this horrible sound, then see my top speed drop by 10-15 until the next day.
I've adjusted the valve gaps, carb, transmission, changed the plug, coil, and cdi, checked everything in and out but have not popped the engine open yet.
These are the concerning symptoms I have:
-Top speed 42, used to be that the speedo would get way past 50 and hit the bottom of the meter and I would still be accelerating faster past the limits of the speedo. -45+ makes the scoot feel like there is some sort of resistance in the engine and if I lay off the throttle for a second then go back up it makes FWAOOOMP noise and jerks and slows, if I do not lay off it dies -Compression seems low compared to an identical engine with the same exact BBK, so low that I can turn my engine by hand easily, the identical engine with all good everything has much higher compression so much that it is impossible to turn by hand -Valves were completely dry this morning when I adjusted them, usually I find oil on the parts and a small pool in the head, but today I found it bone dry. -I put about 20ml of engine oil on the valves and cam before reassembling, when started it burned blue smoke out the muffler for about 2 minutes -Starting always requires revving, and after a long run will not start again for 5-20 minutes, then when starting have to wait till it start sputtering then rev it, but if I rev it before it sputters like I do when the engine is cold it will just not start for longer -Torque seems to have lowered, I can only go uphills at about 15-20, used to be 30-40 easy -Oil seems to burn fast on some long trips, others it does not deplete at all. I fill up about 2 times a month though
I feel I need a new topend. What do you guys gather from this?
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Belt wear
by: lain - Jun 8, 2015 12:41:17 GMT -5
Post by lain on Jun 8, 2015 12:41:17 GMT -5
Couldn't you make a scoop like the flywheel fan cover scoop? Route air in over the entire drive face. Like cut holes around the variator and clutch, put a screen over the variator area on the outside, put a scoop on to catch and force more air into the cvt over the variator, maybe your old scoop from before the crash.
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Post by lain on Jun 8, 2015 12:22:03 GMT -5
I installed thicker fuel line, this time clear. If the fuel in the line will not raise higher than the bowl that is okay? The thinner line would fill up the entire line and filter.
Test on the road soon.
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Post by lain on Jun 8, 2015 9:57:54 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Jun 8, 2015 9:54:45 GMT -5
I was wondering if there was someone that has removed the graphics from their plastic and could tell me the method? As you can see, there is something written that looks like "Whila" ? on the front and both sides in the rear. I would like to remove it! ( At least the front one for sure, could live with the rear ) Vince Have you tried paint remover?
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Post by lain on Jun 8, 2015 9:08:16 GMT -5
So I got my belt rubbing issues resolved, was due to bad dried out belts that stretched too much.
Now I am able to hit 50 again but when I do it bogs and jerks a little bit but sounds like it runs out of fuel till I let go of the throttle and let it catch up, about 2 seconds then I can keep going at about 42 but if I do not let the throttle down it dies out.
I am using a manual petcock with stock fuel lines. No leaks at all. Vent hose good and not kinked.
Should I upgrade to thicker fuel line?
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Belt wear
by: lain - Jun 7, 2015 22:47:22 GMT -5
Post by lain on Jun 7, 2015 22:47:22 GMT -5
I avoid using anything but water. Don't need the belt absorbing soap. Scrubbing always seems to be good for any parts. Just scrub everything lol
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Belt wear
by: lain - Jun 7, 2015 21:22:49 GMT -5
Post by lain on Jun 7, 2015 21:22:49 GMT -5
Just wipe the sides with a rag and a little warm water fast to wear the glaze off. Just did it today myself. The friction rubs the glaze off easy with some force. It's safe enough to not damage the threading or sides.
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Post by lain on Jun 7, 2015 9:36:55 GMT -5
You'll need a relay with a normally closed switch, powered by the stator, which will open when the stator is putting out enough juice to activate it, and will return to the closed state when the stator is not putting out juice. The power for the device hooked up to this relay will come straight from the battery, so no AC components. very very close JerryScript Lain do you have the7 pin regulator? if so the magic is in the white wire and normally closed relay. John I have 4 pin regulators and have a 5pin new regulator and new stator in my parts bin. No 7 pin. I am working on putting the circuit on 50cc scoots.
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Post by lain on Jun 7, 2015 9:32:20 GMT -5
A buddy of mine just bought a 2005 80cc Honda elite at a yard sale for $200. It has 750 miles on it. It sat for about a year or so in a garage , so I had to clear the carb bowl and jets . they were completely clogged . I drained the fuel , filled the tank with new fuel with star tron . the battery was shot , so we jusmp it to see if it would start , and it fired right up, and sounds great. He paid 200 bucks for a scoot that worth close to $1500 . To people like me that is the only way to buy. So far in the past month I've bought 3 old scooters, totalling $250 for all 3. 2 are running around daily, one is in project status for 50 to 150cc conversion.
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