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Post by tweberis on Jun 19, 2016 12:23:29 GMT -5
Chain looks great actually and oil comes out nice, used but no fragments of any kind.
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Post by tweberis on Jun 18, 2016 13:01:55 GMT -5
Circlips are already out, this thing just won't budge, keeping after it. Wasn't going to replace crank since it does crank just fine.
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Post by tweberis on Jun 18, 2016 2:01:23 GMT -5
Engine oil done twice a year in my service records, shell rotella t 15w-40, coolant done every 2 years. Brake lines not flushed/serviced ever, usually do that with my pad replacement which has never been done, prefer engine braking.
Kinda stuck at the moment, cannot get the wrist pin out of the piston any tips? it moves freely around the wrist pin and doesn't appear to be keyed to the circlip notch in any way....
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Post by tweberis on Jun 16, 2016 8:31:17 GMT -5
The day I bought it back in 2008 it ran hot when riding it home and I pulled over and towed it back to my dealer who fixed it. Said their was a clog in the water pump (I read the factory coolant is bad and has an additive that can do that) Currently has 6496 miles on it. No spark plug issues, (pic in link) and great spark. Not sure if linhai will warranty, where can I find out?
Can you tell me where the oil pimp drive is?
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Post by tweberis on Jun 16, 2016 1:17:13 GMT -5
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Post by tweberis on Jun 16, 2016 1:13:35 GMT -5
Hi all, sorry it's been a bit. I just haven;t had much time as of late to tackle this thing. Anyhow, I have the cylinder head off and cylinder off with some photos hereThe cylinder wall is definitely damaged as well as the piston. Planning on lapping the valves anyway while I'm this far in and should be able to make sure everything is pressed nice and square upon reassembly. Let me know what you guys think. Also, is there an easy way to get that wrist pin out of the piston? I have the circlips out but that pin won't budge....
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Post by tweberis on Jun 10, 2016 22:57:59 GMT -5
Okay. It's safe to say at this point I can pull it apart and get some photos up here for some more experienced eyes to look at. Will get going on that. Thanks
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Post by tweberis on Jun 10, 2016 21:42:16 GMT -5
Very cool.. wet compression test got me to 80 PSI within seconds (guessing oil started pushing through under pressure, wouldn't go any higher)...based on your suggestion this is just a ring problem and should I procure a piston and rings, rings only, or the entire ensemble (cylinder, cylinder head, piston rings, etc)?
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Post by tweberis on Jun 10, 2016 1:02:36 GMT -5
Thanks, will give this a try tomorrow night and report back.
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Post by tweberis on Jun 9, 2016 21:08:18 GMT -5
Okay, first guage was bad (no reading) but second guage is good and it reads 30PSI (Throttle wide open and cranked for 2 minutes)... looking at a top end tear down then? Any reason why it would be sudden with no oil loss that I can detect?
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Post by tweberis on Jun 8, 2016 4:01:50 GMT -5
Just thought I would follow this up. After going though this I separated the nose from the dash and found my plug on the ignition had partially come out. Fired right up after fixing that.
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Post by tweberis on Jun 8, 2016 4:00:38 GMT -5
Valves were done quite some time ago, went ahead and checked them tonight. Intake was at .0025 and now set back to .004, exhaust was at .006 and now back to .005. Compression I need to confirm the actual numbers (my adapter is too big for this plug hole) and will get that checked in the next day. Plugging the hole with my thumb it does feel like solid compression but numbers are better
Checked the gas, shook the tank up real nice and siphoned a quart size mason jar out, no water in the gas and looks to be good. Filled my 4-wheel rig up from the same place not long after and have been using the same gas location for about 8 years now.
With regard to the fuel pump, should this thing kick on as soon as the key is turned to on? I have cranked and cranked and rarely get that thing to kick on. Other times I can tap the starter twice and then hear it go for about 2 minutes before it stops
Lastly, from some other users I made the jump to the orange aluminum safe coolant after a proper flush. Any problems with that or green recommended?
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Post by tweberis on Jun 6, 2016 21:04:05 GMT -5
Also while I have it apart, I am replacing the thermostat, water pump (won't drain for service) and the temp sending unit. Flushed everything and new qualtiy 50/50 mix put in.
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Post by tweberis on Jun 6, 2016 21:02:18 GMT -5
Hello everyone, It's been quite some time since I have posted but only because I do so much riding. I have a new problem that unfortunately crept up at 330AM on the freeway. Just filled the scoot up with premium gas and hopped on the freeway, about 2 miles down the road, scoot died and wouldn't refire. Got it home and here's the symptoms: I have power, lights, horn, turn signals etc. Last year replaced with Shorai Lithium battery rated up to 14Ah and 210 CCA It cranks and I have spark. I replaced my coil about 2 months ago with another stock coil. The original coil was still good, just wanted to have a backup. Verified spark by hold to body to watch for arc. Using an NGK iridium spark plug as recommended on these forums. I have it all apart now so things are easier to troubleshoot. Replaced the fuel filter, was pretty gnarly at this point. Blew through the fuel pump, no clogs there. All lines attached. I can hear the pump sometimes after cranking, not always, but the pump doesn't seem to pull much if any through the filter (shouldn't it be full?), does it run all the time or should it be fairly slow? Perhaps bad electric pump? Can I test this with a 9 volt by jumping wires (which ones?)? Changed the oil, fresh 15w40 Rotella T last month and it's been doing great. Been running since I got the scoot in 08, only have 6500 miles on it. Did gear oil earlier in the season, all looks good. I did find a wire off the bottom of the carb, crimped a bit more to make it tighter and cleaned, put back on but same thing. Thinking this may have come off during disassembly. Kickstand switch is good, lubed it just in case and can hear the switch go on/off while working the plunger. I have it out of the way for now. I have read that it could be the CDI, checked a few tutorials and my CDI appears good. If I have to replace it I am going to go with this Hi Rev CDI (9000RPM)My problems seem very similar to this thread, cannot find a bad ground anywhere yet and all wiring looks good. His ended up being a battery, but mine is good (swapped with another bat for good measure) Any help is greatly appreciated. On the cusp of summer, amazing weather and I'm down a scoot.
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Post by tweberis on Oct 8, 2014 22:47:25 GMT -5
Hi all,
Got a small issue with my Aeolus 300 that I'm racking my brain about. The scooter will just die while riding and after some time wiggling the ignition switch around it will crank. It will die in the middle of a ride.
Some background on the scoot:
Early October replaced the battery with a new Lithium battery Later October a buddy borrowed it for a few weeks, dropped/slid it and has had this problem since. It went for a right side slide of about 10' after hitting the brakes and locking up at about 20mph (rider is fine, my scooter is dinged up)
Have made sure the battery has a full charge, still cannot get to crank all time. Any place i should start looking? Again, seems to fire after wiggling the ignition switch a bit. Maybe it took some damage on the fall? No visible damage on that unit there. Thanks!
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