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Post by urbanmadness on May 20, 2014 12:38:40 GMT -5
I think I'd have to air brush it with an "Iron Man" motif....
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Post by urbanmadness on May 20, 2014 12:24:02 GMT -5
I agree with OCG.... "You call that a knief, mate?"
so I beg to ask... Chuck Norris or Crocidile Dunn Dee?
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Post by urbanmadness on May 20, 2014 11:36:56 GMT -5
Did the bike break the chain when it was running? If so, check the valves and make sure it didn't bend them when it broke.
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Post by urbanmadness on May 20, 2014 11:32:31 GMT -5
I wiegh 300lbs and rode a 150. I put over 6000 miles on it in a year and it held up just fine. Stock it would do 53 or so, according to the GPS. I put a 115mm variator and 12 gram wieghts and it made a huge difference. The stock ones were 14 gram. With the larger variator, it was good for 58mph, according to the GPS. And I rode it with a pretty heavy hand.
I also have a 250. It's not much quicker, it just don't work quite as hard. The 150 was more dependable tho and it was a much more fun bike.
The 150 was even more fun then my 500.
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"Real bike"
by: urbanmadness - May 19, 2014 17:04:47 GMT -5
Post by urbanmadness on May 19, 2014 17:04:47 GMT -5
I've owned three scoots so far, and all of them were real bikes. All needed respect in their own ways. All three had there own riding challenges. The Aprillia I ride now, is capable of plus mph. Is it a real bike? You bet your fur. Even my 150 was able to do almost 60mph (gps not indicated).... Isn't that faster then a lot of the "real" bikes from the 60's and 70's? My 250.... it's good for a solid 65mph.... I think it's a real bike as well.
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Post by urbanmadness on May 19, 2014 14:00:55 GMT -5
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Post by urbanmadness on May 19, 2014 13:23:41 GMT -5
Ok... do this... go all the way back to stock jet then if it runs like it did, then go to the bigger jet (start with the 110).... The variator won't cause sputtering, and stuttering. My money is on one of two things... The carb round slider isn't moving, (stuck), it's over jetted (115 is a bit big for stock, try the 110), or plug boot (see below). Since you already have the jets, checking these three things won't cost you a dime, just a little time. If you suspect a spark problem, check the plug boot before you do anything. They do go bad and unclip from the spark plug. Always make sure it's pressed all the way on any time you do a valve adjustment, because that's when you are trying to work in that tight space with them big hands and sometimes you will brush up against it and not even know it getting it just loose enough on the end of the spark plug. As a matter of fact, after I had three different bikes end up with this problem, I decided that when I do the first valve adjustment on a bike (and I work on all my buddies bikes), I change the plug boot with a quality one (about 5bucks from the scooter shop). They just twist onto the plug wire. To check the carb slide, pull the airbox snorkle off the carb, start the bike, and then see if the slide lifts when you give it a little gas. Be patiant, one way or another we'll make it an awesome scooter... Alley, what do you think?
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Post by urbanmadness on May 19, 2014 12:21:39 GMT -5
Jet's are just screwed in. If you have ever messed with car carborators, you will find these scoot carbs a joy... they are brain dead simple!
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CVT problem?
by: urbanmadness - May 19, 2014 12:11:34 GMT -5
Post by urbanmadness on May 19, 2014 12:11:34 GMT -5
I'm betting a roller wieght has fallen out of position. Provided it hasn't run like that for two long, the variator faces aren't scored up, or the clutch isn't glazed and the wieghs are seviceable, it may be a simple as pulling it apart and putting it back together correctly.
Believe it or not, it would cuase what's he's describing too. With the varitor, closed up like that, it's going to spin the clutch faster, and that's going to at least partially engage it. When trying to ride it, it will act like a car trying to take off in 4th gear...
The question is of course, why did it happen in the first place... either the bike was dumped and it jarred the weights, a new belt was installed, and the variator was allowed to "relax" letting a wieght fall out, or the weights are worn.
inspect the weights, make sure there are not excessive flat spots.... if there are, replace 'em.
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Post by urbanmadness on May 19, 2014 11:59:39 GMT -5
You have pictures of the bike? We may be able to help you (just need to see what engine etc it has)... If it's like a cf moto type engine, scrappy dawgs may have what you need.... And they are just in Las Vagas.
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Post by urbanmadness on May 19, 2014 11:41:52 GMT -5
I belive the 115jet is way too big... try the 110. Also where is the pin set at in the diaphram body, start with the middle notch. Make sure the diaphram isn't torn and slides up and down it's bore smoothly. (could be a stuck diaphram)... Make sure that carb is seated into the intake manafold... you should hear a nice thunk sound when you install it. Set the A/F screw (find allly's tutorial on it, it's awesome).
Get the engine running right before we play with the variator. 12 gram weights are a good ball park to start at. My 150 had 14 gram, stock... went to a 115mm variator with 12 gram wieghts and gained about 5mph on the top and had way better pick up but I also weigh 300lbs and that makes a huge difference. The object of the game is to have the scooter stay in the power band as much as possible, shoot for 7500rpms. Don't worry about top speed, as you get the variator tuned right, it will come. But first the engine needs to be running correctly so it's making enough torque to thow the wieghts out.
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Post by urbanmadness on May 19, 2014 11:29:09 GMT -5
If I remember right the term for the engine was "over stressed" That's how the Helix could run WOT all day long and not break down. You mean "under stressed" Opps, you corrected it... as I replied... LOL
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Post by urbanmadness on May 19, 2014 11:23:22 GMT -5
Might just need a little valve adjustment.... so easy on that engine, it's scary.... Didn't the reflex have that weird two stage variator that everyone hates? My 250 has the clone or the 244cc it in, very smooth running engine. It's smoother then my Aprillia 500cc. That smoothness is sometimes mistaken for sluggishness... It's the same basic engine that was used in the legendary Helix as well. Very long lived, and very over engineered. Keep in mind, use only Honda coolant, or silica free coolant in that engine. If you don't, the silica will eat the waterpump seals. (it's a Honda thing, you just wouldn't understand)
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Post by urbanmadness on May 19, 2014 10:30:25 GMT -5
and Leno don't want ... hahahahah...
It might of been worth 20k if he hadn't painted it and it was complete... even if it had some patina on it...
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Post by urbanmadness on May 16, 2014 17:12:50 GMT -5
becuase the pump needs pulsed vacume. A vac can, gets rid of the pulse and just makes it a vacumme.
think puff puff puff (what your scooter needs), instead of hisss.
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