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Post by flatland2d on Aug 15, 2014 22:45:45 GMT -5
Just wanted to update to say the it started up fine this morning after sitting for 10 or 11 hours, so I think I can say this issue is gone. Thanks to everyone for pointing me in the right direction!
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Post by flatland2d on Aug 15, 2014 12:46:21 GMT -5
Wrong post.
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Post by flatland2d on Aug 14, 2014 23:13:03 GMT -5
Just went out to check since it has been sitting for a few hours and was cold again. Sure enough, it started right up. I'll wait until tomorrow to say it's definitely fixed, but this was a very good sign. It must have been something wonky with the enricher or I was leaking gas out the drain tube.
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Post by flatland2d on Aug 14, 2014 20:42:20 GMT -5
So I may have fixed the problem, but I don't know exactly what did it.
I started with the enricher. When I took it off (cold) it was in the retracted position which would be correct. The pins were far into the connector and close together so I wasn't able to put voltage on it. I may take it off again after the next time I ride to see it in the extended position, but I feel like I can rule out it being stuck since it was already retracted.
I cleaned out all the holes where the enricher goes and removed the header piece that attaches the enricher to the carb. I cleaned it out just to be sure. The carb is only about two months old so everything still looked pretty new.
In the process of cleaning the enricher, I sprayed a lot of carb cleaner into the holes in the carb. I didn't know if this would mess with the gas in the bowl, so I drained it out a few times with the drain tube. I noticed the screw at the end of the tube felt a little loose when I opened it. Maybe it was loose enough for gas to leak out over time? Anyway, when I put it all back together, it started up fine.
I don't know if messing with the carb by filling and draining it helped it to start cold, but I will know tomorrow when I go to try to start it again.
Thanks for the input!
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Post by flatland2d on Aug 13, 2014 22:42:14 GMT -5
I just had a problem pop up seemingly at random, not after messing around with anything. The carb needs to be primed in order to start after sitting for a while.
I use the overflow tube at the top of the carb to put a little gas inside and it will start right up after that. But cold starting will just crank with without firing.
Today I thoroughly cleaned out the carb and rechecked the idle air mixture screw. It's about 2.5 turns out. The carb bowl seemed to be full of gas when I took the carb off. It starts up when warm with just a blip of the starter button but just won't start on its own if it's been sitting.
Any ideas?
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Post by flatland2d on Aug 13, 2014 22:33:50 GMT -5
The new starter came in today (I love Amazon Prime, and it was only $20). Got it installed and was able to get it started. The new starter sounds different than the older one. The old one was louder and had somewhat of a screeching sound to it. Maybe that's why it died. The new one just sounds more powerful but quieter starting up.
I now have a different problem, but I'll make another thread for that.
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Post by flatland2d on Aug 11, 2014 21:20:43 GMT -5
Unfortunately I can't answer that because I left the kick-starter off last time I took the crankcase cover off. I've been planning to put it back together but haven't gotten around to it yet. I suppose I could turn the engine at the 17 mm bolt, but I'm 99% sure the engine is turning freely.
I may just order a starter and see what happens.
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Post by flatland2d on Aug 11, 2014 20:50:15 GMT -5
I'm trying to diagnose a problem I'm having with my 150cc GY6. When trying to crank the engine, it feels like the battery is dead. After spending the day on the charger, the battery still sounded weak. I tried a different battery that I know is good and it did the same thing. It's to the point where the engine won't even turn over. You just hear the brushes buzzing inside the starter.
What I'm wondering is, could this be a symptom of a failing starter? I removed the starter and jumpered power across the terminals and it did turn, but I couldn't gauge how much torque it had behind it. I checked the wiring in the scooter and everything was fine. Before removing the starter, I jumpered 12 V straight to the starter and had the same symptom of it sounding weak. The battery reads 12.8 V with no load and 12.0 V with the starter buzzing and not turning. Does this sound right? Can a failing starter have the same symptoms (weak cranking) as a dead battery?
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Post by flatland2d on Jul 30, 2014 21:40:15 GMT -5
I got the new clutch in today and installed it. The process went very smooth once I got the belt off by compressing the clutch spring with my hands. I have a pneumatic ratchet that makes quick work of the CVT cover (I don't tighten with it to avoid stripping). The new clutch was an identical replacement for the one I had. Got everything put back together and went for a ride. Everything is back to normal again and no vibrations. Thanks for all the help!
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Post by flatland2d on Jul 29, 2014 20:36:50 GMT -5
I may give up on the variator removal since this won't be long term for me and I'm not planning on changing rollers or sliders.
My pneumatic impact driver at 200 psi with the variator locked could not get it to budge. It was the breaker bar that started messing it up. I don't know how many foot pounds my pneumatic driver puts out at that psi but it's pretty serious and still nothing. That nut is really on there hard!
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Post by flatland2d on Jul 29, 2014 20:13:56 GMT -5
I made my own variator removal tool and it started the crack the variator where the pegs go into the holes on the variator to lock it up. Might need a new variator because of that. I'm planning on doing the rope in the cylinder method next.
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Post by flatland2d on Jul 27, 2014 23:55:51 GMT -5
I tried the no-tools method to remove the belt, but it turns out I was doing it wrong so it didn't work. I'll try it again when the new clutch comes in. Mostly I just wanted to inspect the variator because I haven't taken it apart yet in the time I've owned the scooter. I might be interested in replacing the rollers, but I don't know what I have stock. I really don't want to lose any top end.
Inside the clutch bell looks perfectly fine. No damage, very smooth.
The new clutch should be here in a couple of days. Looking forward to being good as new again!
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Post by flatland2d on Jul 27, 2014 14:24:13 GMT -5
rockynv, I think you are correct. Two of the three clutch shoes show damage. This is the good one:  This is one of the bad ones:  Most of the replacement parts I'm finding on ebay are the entire clutch, so I guess that's what I will be replacing. Any sense in getting a "racing" or "performance" clutch, or one with a different RPM spring? I'm planning on selling this in a few months when I go to upgrade so I don't need anything too great, I just ride it around town. Lastly, I'm having some trouble getting the variator off, even with a pneumatic impact driver and the variator held down so it can't move. Any tips to get this off with the impact driver? If not, I'll have to rig up something else so I can use a 1/2" breaker bar.
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Post by flatland2d on Jul 26, 2014 20:58:29 GMT -5
Thanks alleyoop. I may try to get a pic of the inside tomorrow, but from everything I could see, nothing looked broken on the cover or inside the CVT. Since these were back near the rear pulley, some on the back side being covered up by the pulley, I couldn't see everything inside.
For reference, the largest piece is roughly the size of a nickel and they all seem slightly curved.
I should note though, that even though it looks like something catastrophically failed, the scooter ran fine except for that little vibration, and before I messed with it yesterday, it was perfect.
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Post by flatland2d on Jul 26, 2014 20:41:47 GMT -5
Yesterday I went to recheck my valve clearances and tune the idle air mix screw since I haven't touched that since I installed the new carb. Intake was set at 0.004", exhaust at 0.005". I set the exhaust back down to 0.004" where I last put it. Also adjusted the idle air mix screw. I only mention this because the next problem I had came after I put everything back together, but I don't think these would be related. After finishing that job, I started getting a weird vibration around 20 mph and up. It was kind of an on-off-on-off cycle about once or twice a second. Didn't seem to happen during deceleration. I also noticed a weird sound, presumably coming from the engine, that sounded like a ch-ch-ch-ch sound after coming to a stop, then it would go away. That may have something to do with me tweaking the idle air mix screw (I set it around two turns out). Anyway, some reading about the vibration issue pointed to the belt flapping around in the CVT. I decided to take the CVY cover off to see if there was anything odd inside. Upon taking the cover off, these metal pieces fell out. They were around the rear pulley area. The scooter has around 800 miles on it so the belt should be broken in. I decided to stop working for the night so I never got to see where these metal pieces came from. Can anyone tell me where these go? What part do I need to replace? Also, the CVT cover gasket broke upon removal. Is that pretty normal? I was hoping to reuse it, but after seeing it tear, I don't think I can.  |
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