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Post by lilbagheera777 on Apr 21, 2014 3:13:23 GMT -5
Well... She ran like a screaming demon up to the point where the starter gear popped loose...maybe... I still havn't popped that side of the engine off. Got pissed when I took the CVT side off and saw that the variator roller fused to the crankshaft and I couldnt take it off. Currently the new engine is a scrappy dog "GY6-200" B-case with a 30mm carb. I am still working on tuning the carb. However, I do like that it is a 61mm, has an oil cooler, 115mm variator, 11 pole stator, 842-20-30 Bando. This engine also required me having to buy a different rim and tire( Had to get a 13") due to different hub sizes( my old 12" had a smaller diameter hub). This is a plus overall as well. I wanted 13" tires, just didn't want to buy them right off the bat. I took off the 11 pole for now and am using my old 8 pole. Didn't want to mess with the conversion yet.(hehe which is a good thing considering I messed up this basic swap.) I also took off the clutch and put my Motorio with NCY sliding sheave, K&S bell back on. Also have my old black NCY intake back on. Oddly the intakes for 30mm carbs(chrome-colored) didn't fit with this engine(clearance issue). So for the most part, it is the same as the old motor with one new improvement that i had wanted to do(oil cooler). I still need to put the other drive gears in. I believe i went with 15/36 maybe 16/36 cant remember, been a while. The other is to put the A-9 cam back in, but I am waiting to do that as well. Want to let her run as she is so I can get a baseline feel for her. Also, and don't know the why of it yet, but I can not use my old stroker crank on this engine. Being a "B-case" design I was told it wouldn't work. Down the road if all goes well I am strongly considering turning her into a water-cooled 4-valve 232cc. That is one of the big pluses to the B-case. The jug is wider so it has more meat to bore into without coming too close to the retaining rods. Also, I have not been on the boards for awhile due to my computer taking a crap on me. Finally got that issue resolved as well. Thank you Bob and Mill for the shout out. I had hoped things would have went easier, but if my trials helped others, which was sorta the point I was shooting for as the project went along, then I am happy. Also I know I had to have made a few chuckle and go Good God man, what are you doing/thinking.... That is not how it goes/works!!! I truly enjoyed the support and patience from this forum. NO way in I would have been able to do that project without you all. That was my first time wading into the waters of a engine tear down and rebuild with no prior knowledge other than basic mechanic skills.
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Post by lilbagheera777 on Apr 20, 2014 18:59:53 GMT -5
She runs
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Post by lilbagheera777 on Apr 20, 2014 17:51:50 GMT -5
The plug on the boot cap side must be missing some sort of fitting on the inside. I understand how it is supposed to fit on there but it seems as though it is made for a bigger plug. there isn't anything small enough for the spark plug it snug into. I looked at my oem coil wire and it had a small fitting in there to grip the plug, this new one doesn't have it. I tried using the oem fitting(small hollow screw with a spring and contact) but it wouldn't fit.
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Post by lilbagheera777 on Apr 20, 2014 16:38:47 GMT -5
God I am an idiot. OK, all that is working now. The next issue I may have is the "Hi performance ignition coil wire" doesn't fit snug on the plug. Will try to tape the cap tightly to the fan shroud to hold the wire on tight to see if it will fire. If it does then I will replace wire, if it doesn't I will still replace wire. Dam@! DAM@! DAM@! I...can believe I was doing this...
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Post by lilbagheera777 on Apr 20, 2014 16:26:05 GMT -5
ah crap...reread what you wrote alleyoop....give the battery a moment to charge... I have been trying to hook the starter up to the same side as the red to battery...
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Post by lilbagheera777 on Apr 20, 2014 16:06:18 GMT -5
To the solenoid I have the red battery on one side. The other side I have the black battery and a solid green for ground. All other connections match color to color. the lead from the solenoid matches color to color to the other connection for the brake lights and power switch. The choke wires match color to color. The cdi matches color to color. The stater matches color to color. This is an original wiring harness. If I don't put the starter red onto the solenoid red side All works. When I hit the start button I can hear the solenoid make a switch click. But soon as I touch the starter red to the solenoid it try to turn over.
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Post by lilbagheera777 on Apr 20, 2014 15:45:17 GMT -5
k, will re check the wiring now
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Post by lilbagheera777 on Apr 20, 2014 15:21:36 GMT -5
Had to fix a few more things. Brake light bulb was out, fixed it. Front brake light switch was stuck, wiggled the wire until it popped back out. Still wants to turn over with the key in the off position and kill switch engaged so, John, (you and Alley, have helped me out a bunch over the years(Scootdawg handle was Lukain) I will instead of buying a solenoid from a dealer in town will throw a bone your way. Wish at the moment I can do more...hehe but im sure later there will be. If I ran into any other issues that you supply parts for I will try to order them from you.
Side note: the old motor that I supped up ended up running great for about 6k miles. However, i was driving her 120 miles a day (60 miles each way) at 65-75mph( Was passing cars on the freeway doing the speed limit(65mph), Loved some of the looks I would get as I passed them). One day at work she wouldn't engage the starter and when trying to take her apart i found that the variator had fused to the crankshaft. I never opened the other-side but i believe the starter gear popped out of place. (Once I saw what happened to the cvt-side I didn't bother) I figure that the roller on the variator fused because I over torqued the nut. Lesson learned.
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Post by lilbagheera777 on Apr 18, 2014 17:58:26 GMT -5
Also, I have looked at the wiring throughout the harness, all connections secure, no frays, or melting. I have a multimeter, but dont know what readings I should get and where to check. The battery reads 13.25. Every connection if i touch the ground on the solenoid to any connection i get 13.25. If I touch the ground solenoid and the casing on the starter i get the same. I have the engine grounded to the frame from the bottom of the engine casing bottom fan to engine screw -to the frame itself.
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Post by lilbagheera777 on Apr 18, 2014 15:50:23 GMT -5
I have a scoot that has been sitting for a year. I recently bought a new motor for her. When I hooked it all up as soon as I would start to attach the starter wire she would try to start. This will happen with the key in the off position and the kill switch engaged. Thought it may have been the starter. Replaced it with a known good starter same thing. Thought it was the CDI. Switched out with known good CDI same thing. Also would still do so even with CDI disconnected. Thought it was the alarm box. Removed the alarm, same thing. The battery is also a new lithium ion battery 7amp. When I disconnect the green ground I can put the starter wire on the solenoid, but as soon as the wire grounds it tries to start. I disconnected the solenoid from the harness, still will try to start. Lights work, horn works, blinkers work. Hopefully someone can help.
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Post by lilbagheera777 on Mar 29, 2014 17:29:40 GMT -5
I recently purchased an engine and the hub size on the engine casing is roughly 6". The hub size of my 12" rear rim is 5". Is there anyone out there that sells rear rims that are 12" and have a hub size of 6" and set up for disc brakes, not drum?
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