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Post by Moat on Apr 15, 2013 20:52:59 GMT -5
Wow 140k miles !!!  I know! I didn't believe it at first, but he swore it was true. I've heard of numerous other Harley's going 60-80,000+ mi. as well. |
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Post by Moat on Apr 15, 2013 20:50:07 GMT -5
A car the belt can last for years driving the accessories . I wonder if it is the stretching like when the weights push it outwards make it wear out faster A car's V-belt carrying a lighter load through a smaller, more flexible belt = less heat. An automobile serpentine belt is just a series of tiny V-belts placed side-by-side, allowing the same friction purchase area in a much thinner (but wider), more flexible belt - running even cooler and lasting longer still. |
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Post by Moat on Apr 15, 2013 20:40:04 GMT -5
I wonder why belts and tires have such a short life . My buddies Harley the drive belt is good for 20k miles or more ( maybe more un for sure ) Apples and oranges - Harley's and the like use toothed belts, which are low friction (and little-to-no slipping), so low heat. Given that the teeth do the actual "grabbing" - instead of a V-belt's inherent but required friction - the tensile drive loads can be handled by a relatively thin (but of course, wide) flexible section that, therefore, heats up even less. I had a buddy who's Electra Glide's belt went >140,000 mi. before it shed a few teeth and started skipping when pulling away from stops. Amazing! Too bad a toothed belt can't work with a variator! |
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Post by Moat on Apr 15, 2013 20:18:06 GMT -5
Or bent the connecting rod/cracked the piston.
The "rope trick" is a reasonably safe way to hold valves in place to allow removing the spring keepers/springs/seals/etc. without having to remove the cylinder head - it's not intended as a means to hold the crankshaft in place in order to remove the variator nut, as the break-free torque can be high enough to damage downstream components (piston/rod/bearings/crankpin-flywheel alignment).
A compression/leakdown test is in order.
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Post by Moat on Apr 13, 2013 9:40:54 GMT -5
So u think depleting the EGR would be my best option??? No. The EGR/PAIR has absolutely nothing to do with a visible electrical spark jumping between the engine and frame. The ignition coil mounts (and is electrically grounded) to the frame. The engine floats on rubber bushings - which don't pass electricity (like, say, spark for the spark plug, for instance). Therefore, a heavy conductive wire bolts somewhere between the steel frame and the rubber-mounted engine, completing the electrical path (ground) that's needed between the two. If that grounding wire is at all flaky (loose/corroded/broken/etc.)... so too will the spark at the plug be flaky. If the spark can't find it's way through a bad grounding wire, it'll do whatever it can to get back around to the coil... like jump across a gap between your engine's EGR and the frame, for example. Check that ground wire! |
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Post by Moat on Apr 10, 2013 20:11:19 GMT -5
I DID notice that the emissions stuff (on the valve cover) was literally JUMPING A SPARK from the little metal loop pipe on the valve cover to the frame??? Probably your problem, right there. Weak spark because of a poor engine-to-frame ground. The spark has no easy place to go, so it was jumping to ground where you noticed the sparking. |
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Post by Moat on Mar 6, 2013 5:06:49 GMT -5
I'd look closely for an intake leak - things like; bad or missing intake gasket/seal - cracked/split intake manifold - loose, split or missing vacuum hose(s). And yes - bigger main jet - considering the BBK/air filter/exhaust mods you've done.
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Post by Moat on Mar 5, 2013 6:40:20 GMT -5
Although this is unlikely the cause of your problem, it might be worth checking - make sure "Show Images" is set to "Yes" in your "Profile">"Modify Profile" -> "Account Preferences" section.
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