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Post by gabriel on Nov 17, 2013 16:22:38 GMT -5
It does push my finger off the hole, but it doesn't feel super strong. I actually have a compression tester (bought it months ago and forgot all about it, never used it) but I don't have an adapter that fits this spark plug. I'll hit up the auto parts store and see if I can buy one instead of ordering it. In the meantime, I'll be studying up on rings and valves to see if there's anything within my skill level to attempt there.
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Post by gabriel on Nov 17, 2013 14:59:02 GMT -5
Okay, so the only way I know to check compression is to push the kickstart and see how much resistance there is. And... before all this started the kick start would move twice easily and have a LOT of resistance on the third push. Now I'm getting a mild resistance maybe once every 9 or 10 pushes. This is getting into brand new areas for me. Any suggestions on what to do about this? I'm afraid I don't know what the "rings" are or how to troubleshoot those!
In the meantime you can find me pouring over YouTube videos on the topic...
Thanks for all the help you've provided so far!
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Post by gabriel on Nov 17, 2013 13:42:15 GMT -5
Since last time I updated this I have: - Discovered that the intake manifold was cracked and replaced it with a new one.
- Discovered that the air intake tube had multiple holes in it and replaced it with a new one.
- Replaced the air filter with a new one.
- Replaced all the rubber connecting to the carburetor:
- Gas tank to shutoff valve
- Shutoff valve to fuel filter
- Fuel filter to petcock
- Petcock to carb-fuel-intake
- Petcock to Y-valve
- Y-valve to intake manifold vacuum
- Y-valve to carburetor vacuum
- Replaced the CDI with a new high-performance CDI.
- Double checked that the diaphragm on the new carb was sealing and moving okay.
- Failed to check the float bowl due to stripping the screw-heads while attempting to open it.
- Re-adjusted the valves to make sure I did it right the first time.
- Replaced the spark plug with a new one. The old one was very black and oily, which I think indicates that I was running far too rich.
- Re-adjusted the air-fuel mix screw just to be sure.
Now it will start and idle okay for a few minutes, then die. I have been playing with the air-fuel ratio and the idle screw. It seems that as long as it's adjusted lean, and the idle is set very low, it will idle for a while before it dies. If I give it any gas, it dies immediately. If I richen the mixture it dies immediately. If I tighten the idle screw it dies immediately.
I have sprayed carb cleaner around all the connecting points of my air and gas flow system (both sides of the new intake manifold, the entire length and both ends of the air intake tube), and it doesn't affect the RPMs, which I think means that there are no large air leaks going on there.
I'm ready to start over my troubleshooting from the beginning here. Is it likely that the new carb I bought has a problem right out of the box? Any trouble shooting advice and steps offered will be attempted and appreciated!
Gabriel
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Post by gabriel on Nov 5, 2013 22:20:21 GMT -5
So after you all helped me resolve a diaphragm that wasn't moving the pin in itistheride.boards.net/thread/4677/resolved-sudden-loss-power-accelerating I have a new issue.
SYMPTOMS:
- My GY6 150cc accelerates to about 35mph and struggles to get past it.
- If I twist the throttle quickly it coughs and sputters and drops back to about 30mph.
- If I twist the throttle very slowly and back off a bit just when it starts to cough and sputter, then after about 3 or 4 minutes it will clear up and I can continue to accelerate at a normal pace.
- On some rides the same thing happens a second time at about 45 mph.
Once it has been running for a good 10 or 15 minutes the problem seems to calm down a bit, but it still hesitates between 30 and 35 if I take off from a complete stop (like a traffic light).STEPS:- I replaced the entire carburetor with a brand new unit.
- I adjusted my air/fuel mix according to Alleyoop's 4TS Carb Tuning guide.
- I adjusted my valves to INTAKE = .003 and EXHAUST = .004
- I replaced the petcock with a brand new unit.
Once again, anything you can suggest I'll be happy to try and report back.Thanks in advance! Gabriel |
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Post by gabriel on Nov 5, 2013 21:03:58 GMT -5
THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH FOR HELPING ME WITH THIS! You guys are amazing.
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Post by gabriel on Oct 26, 2013 21:26:13 GMT -5
Alleyoop got it. When I previously cleaned the carb I did NOT disassemble the diaphragm. I pulled it out and the pin stayed in the carb. There is a little figure-eight clip intended to hold the pin in the diaphragm and that clip was broken.
The clip to hold the pin looked difficult to replace, so I just ordered a new carburetor altogether. It should be here Wednesday or Thursday, at which point I'll be back to update this thread again.
Thank you all so much for your help! I've learned a lot from this experience.
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Post by gabriel on Oct 26, 2013 18:08:49 GMT -5
My fuel tank is a good 12 inches higher than the carb, so I took the petcock & shutoff valve out altogether, kinked the vacuum line and ran fuel straight from tank -> filter -> carb. Sadly, it's acting exactly the same as before.
I'm ordering a new petcock anyway, since it's only $10 online.
Any other ideas?
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Post by gabriel on Oct 26, 2013 15:32:25 GMT -5
Well, I've adjusted the valves and replaced the fuel. Still drops power as soon as I get it up to 4000 rpms.
Any other ideas?
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Post by gabriel on Oct 26, 2013 14:59:48 GMT -5
Howdy Folks,
Okay, I just got done adjusting the valves. I started by making my intake .003 and my exhaust .004. Same as before, starts fine, idles fine, hits ~4000rpm and drops back to ~1500. The manual for the bike says to make the in .0019 and the ex .0024. My valve tool only has .002 and .0025, so I used those as the closest. Unfortunately, the issue remains.
I checked my air filter, it's been on the bike since I bought it and looks disturbingly clean, like, nearly new kind of clean. I checked the tubing between the air filter and the carb for holes and patched one tiny crack.
I forgot to mention that when I replaced the carb I also replaced the fuel filter with one of those fancy clear glass filters. It LOOKS clean.
I'm in the process of draining my tank to replace it in case it was bad gas. I'll report back once I'm done, but while I'm at it, do you have recommendations for a fuel system cleaner?
Thanks again for your help!
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Post by gabriel on Oct 24, 2013 19:57:51 GMT -5
Howdy folks,
I have a Kaitong 150cc Chinese scooter that I picked up a year and a half ago. Very recently it began to suddenly lose power while accelerating. It began happening about a quarter of the way into a new tank of fuel. Here's the background:
• Kaitong 150cc
• GY6 engine
• Replaced the carburetor 6 months ago
• Replaced the factory spark with a fancy iridium spark plug 6 months ago
• Replaced the spark plug wire 2 months ago (old one was cracked and it was wiggling itself loose)
It starts beautifully and idles just fine at 1500rpm.
If I twist the throttle suddenly it will stall and die.
If I slowly twist the throttle it will rev up to about 3800 - 4200 and then drop back to 1500.
After this happened:
• I replaced all the fuel lines, because some of the rubber was old and cracking.
• I drained and cleaned the carb.
• I checked my spark gap (it's just a little past .6 mm, manual says to have it between .6 and .7)
-- The spark is a bit dark and sooty, which I think means I've been running a bit rich.
• I re-adjusted my air-fuel mix to lean it out a little bit.
That concludes all the maintenance I've figured out how to do since I got the thing, but it hasn't resolved the sudden loss of power issue, and I need help! Any ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Gabriel
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