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Post by prodigit on Jun 7, 2013 17:52:50 GMT -5
The cardboard restricts airflow. Your airflow may be just as good as with the stock airfilter.
Upjetting will be necessary then.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 7, 2013 4:59:22 GMT -5
One of the reasons I don't wear a helmet on my scooter.
They should freaking make space under the seat to fit a helmet.
You can see in China they don't have helmet laws, or the first thing they'd do is make the bin at least fit a full sized helmet (not half sized, yes, even a 3/4 helmet doesn't fit under the seat of a stock scoot).
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Post by prodigit on Jun 7, 2013 4:54:31 GMT -5
Most stock airfilters scoop up enough air, and have a very low resistance.
I personally would not change the air filter, unless it's not working fine.
I also would not change a stock air filter with oil, for a dry one. If the dry one works better, it won't work as well with oil. If it works better with oil, it more than likely works worse without.
It might improve your air intake, if your air filter is restricted (usually combined with smaller jets, done to meet epa regulations)
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Post by prodigit on Jun 7, 2013 2:14:43 GMT -5
better air intake. You could upjet, but really, try the AF screw first.
Quite often the jets have enough opening to deliver fuel; only if you're demanding max speed at WOT would I upjet. But for the majority of riding, it won't harm running a bit lean when you're nearing top speed. More than likely upjetting compared to an adjusted A/F ratio will gain you only a few MPH difference at WOT.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 7, 2013 1:52:16 GMT -5
I took it out for a spin for a while. Runs great. What it basically does, is instead of clicking the pedal into gear, the left pedal actually has 2 functions. The first part of the pedal is enabling the clutch, the second part is changing the gear. So far, it feels pretty natural to accelerate from 1 to 4 gear; but going back is almost impossible. The bike does not want to shift from 4 to 3 to 2 to 1; which keeps me frustrated on what to do on street corners. I literally have to come to a stop, to shift into N, to go back to 1. So basically it shifts forward only (unless if I have to rev the engine up a bit when shifting back, haven't tried that out yet). I also had to tilt the pedal. Stupid chinese engineering had put 2x right thread on the extension bar (connector bar between pedal and gear joint), instead of using L + R thread. So you'd have to disconnect the joint in order to extend the bar a bit.  It's almost impossible to shift backwards, unless you extend the bar, and tilt the pedal forward.  I'm 6'3" tall, so perhaps that could be one reason. However, tilting the pedal forward makes it rub against the extension bar. So I'm expecting wear there. Not very well engineered. Without well adjusted carburetor, I did 40MPH without problems. Going to 45 was slow, but that was because I was running lean, too lean. As soon as the storm passes by, I hope to take a testride on it, see how it performs now that I've adjusted the carburetor a bit. R-Body panel problem (oil cap can not exit/enter hole):    I've also noticed that this engine type uses very little oil! You can barely see the position of the AF screw on the left of the idle adjust screw:  Damaged cable on mine:  The hoses may look quite complex, but they're actually quite easy. 2x drain hoses, 1x fuel hose, and 1x vacuum hose to the gearbox:  |
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Post by prodigit on Jun 7, 2013 1:43:37 GMT -5
You're supposed to have 2 rings and that one.
Undoubtably one goes in the front, which leaves one for the rear wheel.
I had the same issue as you.
The one you're holding, I just popped it in anyway.
I had to take out the rear wheel axis 5x before I had the right pieces all in place.
I think the piece you're holding, on my bike I mounted it on the opposite side of the sprocket. I don't know if that was ok to do it on that side, or the opposite side.
Let me know where you put it.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 7, 2013 1:38:53 GMT -5
Waaaay too lean man!
It vraaps because it needs more fuel!
Adjust A/F screw, and take out the cardboard. Problem solved.
You could also try with BP Premium fuel, they have additives that burn better than gasoline in them, so your AF ratio can be higher than with regular fuel (because the fuel is more energetic).
Funny thing is your spark plug looks like you're running rich, but the melted arm suggests that it's actually running lean somewhere.
Could be that you're running rich on idle, and lean on WOT, or reverse.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 7, 2013 1:36:56 GMT -5
Yeah, seafoam, or in your case start with 1/2 qt of Chemtool B12. After the tank is empty, pour some seafoam in the new fuel.
When that's done, and still gives you problems, just up the idle screw a bit.
Sometimes weather affects how your bike runs. Worst case adjust AF screw.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 7, 2013 1:33:46 GMT -5
There are spark plugs that create a 'sonic boom' that would disrupt gasoline bubbles in the vapor, causing them to become smaller. I don't know if it works, but some websites are keen on proving it does. In actuality I don't think anyone is going to see any change from chaning spark plug type neither. You could put a golden spark plug in there, and still ride just the same.
Perhaps if there are milli seconds of difference, on the tracks it would make sense, but for ordinary bikes, it'd make more sense to re-set your carburetor's AF ratio every day, and make sure the tires are pumped, than any other mods.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 7, 2013 1:26:39 GMT -5
Generally the roller weight is not going to affect the top speed, unless you put too light rollers in, that won't extend the variator to the max at top speed. Meaning, increasing roller weight does not guarantee higher top speed, only when you had too low weight rollers in them in the first place.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 6, 2013 17:34:25 GMT -5
I guess for a 150 and 250 the mileage is different.
I used to change my BMS260's oil also every 1000 miles. It was still good.
I think larger displacement engines have less tolerance issues, and are more efficient.
I think for 50cc engines 1000 miles will have you black oil (tried it before).
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Post by prodigit on Jun 6, 2013 16:37:20 GMT -5
I wouldn't say that's true.
It's easier to initiate a spark when the arm and tip are closer together, but with a wide center pin, the spark can form anywhere on the surface of the center pin. With a tiny center pin, there's a lot more heat that the pin has to endure (which is why they chose irridium), and the spark is more focused.
Besides, if you look at it in slow-mo, there's not one, but several sparks that appear every time the plug ignites. It goes so fast, we barely can see it, but it are several sparks, that cause ignition.
When you lengthen the gap, the bike needs more power to overcome to create a spark, and there will be fewer energy releases (or sparks) seen in slow mo.
When you shorten the space between arm and center pin, the spark will be smaller, but more sparks will be fired in that millisecond.
It's actually healthier for the bike to have a small spark plug gap, than a big one.
But like with anything, there's a middle road you'll have to figure out what works best for your bike.
On my taotao ATM50, no question, a 0.012" gap is optimal!
I set that same gap for my 150cc, and it works fine.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 6, 2013 16:32:32 GMT -5
I have just over 1900 miles on my 150,most of which was put on it the winter months! I change oil every 500mi at most,I think the oil would be good for a few thousand miles if these gy6 motors had an oil filter.I change it so soon to eliminate as much debris as possible, every time I drain it the oil looks new,so I'm sure it still has all its lubricating properties. Most oil keeps the lubricating abilities well beyond 3k miles. Like you say, it's because of the particles in the oil, chinese scoots have a lot of particles. I change it every 1000km, or every ~620 mi. The oil still looks good, but it has things in them. I tried once to change it at 1000mi but the oil was way too dirty, black and all.... |
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Post by prodigit on Jun 6, 2013 16:14:18 GMT -5
Alright, my impressions where correct. Behind the silver cap, on the left of the idle screw is the AF screw. It needed 1 to 1,5 turn tight, for the bike to run. So far it's running great, because of rain I can't testdrive it though!  |
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Post by prodigit on Jun 6, 2013 16:12:29 GMT -5
Keep in touch!
One thing I can tell you: Don't mount the side plating until the bike is running smoothly!
I actually finished mine after nearly 3 weeks (can only work one day a week).
It's purrin like a kittin!
Here's my advise:
Before mounting the carburetor jet needle, demount it, and drill out the AF screw cap!
It was set way too lean.
Mount the jet needle before you install the carburetor. You can actually move the front grille (plastic looking like a radiator) a bit forward.
then continue like the manual said.
I was about to upload a whole review on how to correctly install it, as I've gone through all the phases, and would surely appreciate your help. Unfortunately I haven't been able to do so far yet.
It's hard indeed, but so far it's a subliminal bike!
Have you felt the suspension?
Best suspension ever!
Basically you need to follow the user manual, and do it slow. Think before you do something.
When the user manual says to connect the wiring for the headlight, connect ALL wiring, because later in the process you can't.
Mount the lollypop blinkers BEFORE you mount the headlight, or it'll be a nightmare!
Or don't mount them at all (the front ones, you still have blinkers, just no lollypop ones).
On the engine and transmission you don't need to do anything.
You probably will need to buy a file, and file off some plastic on the right body panel, because it's in the way for the oil fillup hole on the top.
So far I've only found the engine oil fillup. I think the gears use engine oil, instead of gear oil.
Keep me updated!
If you have any questions, I'm here to help out!
BTW, besides your stock tools, you will need a tiny 8mm wrench, a tiny flat screw driver (that can adjust the AF screw, and fits between carburetor, and body panel on the right), and a drill, to drill out that carb af screw plate, which is located on the left of the idle screw.
In my case I had to turn the screw 1 turn tight, for the bike not to have to run on choke all the time.
I'm still fine tuning it though.
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