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Post by prodigit on Nov 12, 2013 23:29:53 GMT -5
Try running BP premium, and let me know what you think of that fuel!
Other than that, I'd go for shell; but it's noticeably slower.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 12, 2013 23:28:51 GMT -5
On my ATM50 I have 5500km on it. I could have gotten away with riding it stock like that, as I only checked up on some things.
Though the electrical circuit is now toast (probably a faulty wire, or a ground short), the valves have never been adjusted, but when cold it does make a ticking sound, not heard when the engine is hot.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 12, 2013 23:20:39 GMT -5
I know it's bad for the battery to be nearly empty, and only charged for a couple of minutes a week/month. It's better to ride it for at least 10 minutes; or buy yourself a dyno, and try your scoot to do this:
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Post by prodigit on Nov 11, 2013 18:34:03 GMT -5
The battery should say how much cca it has. For reference, a 4A Li battery has ~120CCA. a 7A Li battery has ~150CCA. a 10A battery has ~ <300CCA.
That being said, anything that looks round about the same as the connector plugs, or stock wiring (not flimsier), will do.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 10, 2013 17:02:24 GMT -5
It really depends, but anything with 100cca is good enough. A regular battery for a 125 is 6A, but if I where you, I'd go with 7A.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 9, 2013 0:23:41 GMT -5
This is what it looked like when I was going down that hill and let off because it was revving so high On those speedo's 80kmh equals 40MPH GPS verified. At those speeds you got to be careful of floating valves. I've had it happen, not good! You should be doing around 58-60MPH at that speed. I'd not recommend to take the scoot past 55MPH, unless if your variator or gears lower engine RPM a bit compared to stock. You probably have a 63cc kit on it. At 55-58MPH your engine would be doing ~9+k RPM. Depending on what you're looking for, a 75cc BBK will get you normal acceleration all the way to ~40MPH, instead of to 25MPH on a 63cc (and then from 25-35MPH creep slowly faster). If you combine the 75cc BBK with a gear change you could possibly destroy your speedo, as the needle could get to that 60MPH point (horizontal) quite often.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 8, 2013 2:21:03 GMT -5
On about 2200km my headlights went down. Turns out the bulbs they put in, where 2x35W, and that burned through the light switch. Other than that, I had the EVO bog down on me once. I thought I felt powerloss, and when I finally got over it, it bogged down like no gasoline (though my tank was half full). I was like ''! Pulled over, tried starting it, it started up right away! Went off again, on the highway and everything, and it went fine. Reached top speeds of over 60MPH, 63MPH GPS verified with a little wind in the back.
My ATM50 pretty much gave up the ghost after 5k km. Seems like it has a short somewhere. LowBeam bulb is out, highbeam works though, blinkers out, horn out, clutch is pretty much worn, valve adjustment needed, kick starter overly rusted, and nearly unusable.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 7, 2013 1:32:22 GMT -5
You could always go with any of the red lego bricks here: www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_i_2?rh=k%3Ali+battery+4+cell+12v%2Ci%3Aautomotive&keywords=li+battery+4+cell+12v&ie=UTF8&qid=1383805880They seem to work fine! The 4 cell might be on the small side for a scooter, but the 8 cell and up work wonders on any sub 150cc. Also, cells are 3,3V, meaning 4 cell battery loads 13,2V. Since they're fast charging, voltage drops lower than with Lead Acid. BMS on battery chops voltage charge, meaning if the charge voltage is too high, it'll only send small fractions of the charging wave to the battery for slow charging, and blocks current the rest of the wave. Scoot will be running the same as if the battery was disconnected, which would be the same as if the scoot was running normal.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 5, 2013 19:39:26 GMT -5
My XTreme XB700Li scooter/moped had a LiPo4 battery. When it was fully charged, the regenerative braking did not work, and it braked very badly, but as soon as you had one or two accelerations done, it had enough space in the battery, to store that charge, and the bike would brake using the electric motor, storing the energy in the batteries.
With such batteries it's always good to have a capacitor in parallel with the battery; to even out the voltage fluctuations somewhat.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 5, 2013 11:16:43 GMT -5
I've had a few 200 mile trips on my 50cc, and a few 250+mile trips on my 127cc and 150cc, and those do seem to do hard on my shoulders. A 200 mile trip on a 50cc is much more than a 350mile trip on a 250, first because it's a much harder, much more uncomfy ride, and second because the avg speed is ~35MPH on a 50cc, while the avg speed on a 250 is almost twice as high; meaning you'd do the same trip in half the time.
I've done several 200+ mile trips on my 127 and 150cc scooters, and they're a very nice ride! On my BMS260, I did few 200 mile trips, but they're done in a few hours.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 5, 2013 11:01:02 GMT -5
Yeah, pretty much agree with above statement! I think it's a load of bull when they say about mixing oils. It's the same thing as going Mobil 10W40 one day and the next oilchange do Valvoline, and the next yet another brand.
I think it matters more choosing good brands, than worrying about mixing oils. Even if the specs are very precise.
Concerning the thickness of oils, if you put 20W50 in your engine and run with it for 100k miles, it'll come out as black water, because the thickness wears off over many miles.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 4, 2013 21:40:59 GMT -5
On small turbo's there is no real big lag. On larger turbo's a lot of the lag has to do with the fact that the engine makes lowest torque at lowest RPM. At those low RPMs, the turbo causes drag by kinda blocking the exhaust somewhat, while not giving enough air on the intake. This is compensated by an exhaust and intake bypass. An exhaust bypass that allows low amounts of air to bypass the turbo, without the turbo spooling up, causing very little drag from the turbo at low RPM. At higher RPM, the amount of air is too much to go through the bypass, and the turbo gets spooled up. At the intake, there's also a bypass, with a valve. That way you can have performance and efficiency of almost that of the NA engine without turbo, at lower RPMS; while still having the power of a turbo at higher RPMs.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 4, 2013 21:25:35 GMT -5
On a scoot, buggy, or car there's no other way than to have a BMS built in; otherwise you can't even connect it to the scoot, as the vehicle's alternator will charge the battery.
All the BMS batteries need is a voltage higher than 12V to charge. Any voltage much higher than 14V usually gets lowered by the BMS.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 4, 2013 18:46:41 GMT -5
Chances are that LiFePo4 batteries will increase, not drop in cost, as the prices of Li are currently skyrocketing (due to demand from all kinds of sectors, ranging from cellphones, tablets, wrist watches, to larger applications like electric scooters, cars and golf carts).
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Post by prodigit on Nov 4, 2013 18:44:14 GMT -5
It does, there are turbo's made especially for 50cc engines. They're quite expensive, but they're good enough to spool up a small turbo. Also, as a turbo spools up, it generates compression, and that compression causes even more exhaust pressure; causing the turbo to spool up even more.
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