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Post by vyndarlys on Oct 1, 2015 2:20:56 GMT -5
So, interesting side note: I purchased a new set of Dr Pulley roller weights before this big mess hit, and since I was a bit stumped on how to proceed for a bit, I decided to go ahead and swap them out the other day. My transmission and variator, etc. Have all been in the stock setup since I bought her and did the few little de-restriction tasks More than TEN Years Ago!! So, after getting the variator off (I did put on a new belt about a month ago) I was shocked when I opened it up to get to the roller weights and little shards of plastic came out!! It turns out, my back plate sliders had basically disintegrated and only the constant belt pressure had held them in place! What is more, without the sliders, my back plate had been grinding on the metal over time and had worn out a deep trough in the variator!! I have never had issues with belts (knock on wood) and have never noticed any rattling or debris in my CVT... I had even had it checked out the last (and Very Last) time I took it to the shop... So, I am now in the market for a new Variator too! I am very interested to see how this, and all the other improvements will affect the ride!! I happened to find a Good deal on a new exhaust while I was looking too! (Tecnigas silent pro) so, all in all, she is liable to run like I have Never Seen her run before!! (Provided she Starts!!) I have got a few guys in Korea looking into a new, stock, reed valve replacement... so, that is in the works as well!!! I would be excited if the whole thing hadn't been such a parade of discouragement thus far... Still, Vroom Vroom! Fingers Crossed!!
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Post by cyborg on Oct 8, 2015 0:52:04 GMT -5
So were the reeds cracked?,, or did a chunk blow out?
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Post by spandi on Oct 8, 2015 5:13:36 GMT -5
I get a consistent blue spark and I just swapped out the CDI unit a little bit ago... it is orange and is a performance model, but she ran fine on that one for a good week or so before this last breakdown. I could try to get a picture if it would help... It will take me a little while to get to the reeds, but I suppose they're the next thing to check... I don't know where to get new ones if they need replacing, but I will have to rule them out either way... I'd still like to find a whole new carburetor if I could get one that fits... but these bikes seem to be somewhat rare and uncommon for parts... MR-speed had the deal, but they're shut now for good!! But, there's only so many more parts left I haven't gone over! Seems like the carb is giving you "issues" Check suppliers on this site (like Scrappy Dogs) to find the parts you need.
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Post by vyndarlys on Oct 14, 2015 0:31:02 GMT -5
So sorry to take so long to get back to you guys... but I finally got the reed valve off and checked it - As far as I can tell, it looked Brand New!! Clean, no cracks... seemed just fine... (good, even for 14k) And I was so sure that was it! So, I ordered a new exhaust, it was in need of one! And I am hoping that will fix it!! I noticed when I was working on my variator that the starter pinion assembly was loose, and I think that might have been what made the noise I heard... Having already inspected the carb and fuel system, I can think of little else that might do it... If, God forbid, this new exhaust Doesn't do it, I got to wondering if it might not be a bad auto-choke unit?? I mean, it seems like it is flooding most of the time and, while I can inspect, clean, disassemble, and reassemble the rest of the carb, I just do not trust that choke... I will need to find one for a Daelim E-Five, but I am leaning toward a manual choke lever, if I can find one... my px150 has a manual choke and petcock, and they've never given me this sort of a hard time!! But, my exhaust and variator should be here in a few days to test that hypothesis... Now I just need to find the right sized Main Jet!!!
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Post by vyndarlys on Oct 16, 2015 19:48:15 GMT -5
Aaaaaaargh!!! We have reached the point where my head explodes and I flip the damned table!! I got the new exhaust today, a tecnigas silent pro, because a clogged exhaust was the problem Last Time... I also finished up with the transmission... (new belt, variator, sliders, and roller weights) I fixed the electric starter pinion while I was there as well... I have already rebuilt the carb, checked the fuel and oil lines, put in a new CDI unit, New spark plug, and checked the Reed Valve for damage... But - STILL NO START!!! I generally kick start my bike at all times, but tonight, I put jumper cables on, from the car, and used the electric start... It cranked fine, and even gave a little hiccup every once in a while like it was Trying to start, the hiccups got a little more frequent when I gave it gas, for a bit, but NO START!!! Again, I am stumped!! I do not know what else to do!!! The Damned thing Should Be Starting by Now!!! This is stupid.
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Post by vyndarlys on Oct 18, 2015 15:47:56 GMT -5
FIXED IT!!! After struggling to start it for Ages, I decided there was nothing for it but to start again from the beginning, and check everything over once more... I had thought maybe water had gotten into the fuel, so I was taking the plug out to check, no water I could find, when I figured I'd just check everything... checked the spark, ok, but the plug seemed a bit cleaner than I expected... So, I moved on to the fuel, and the carburetor... I took it off and cleaned it all over again, doing absolutely Everything... still no start! But, again, my plug seemed 'too clean' So I began looking into the oil pump. I didn't see any oil flow Out of the pump, so I took off the lines and cleared them, Then, I bled the lines to be sure there were no air pockets. I was concerned about cranking it without oil, so I put a bit in the cylinder through the plug hole and cranked it without gas flow for a bit... Once I put the gas in, it began to sputter... Holding the throttle open a bit and cranking Finally got it up and going!! I let it run for a long while, and revved it up to burn off the excess. And, so far so good! Best of all, now that it ran, I was able to Finally Wire in my LED lights underneath!! I plan to tweak my roller weights a bit more, the 5.5g are proving to be too light (Great torque though!) But, luckily, I have got some 7.5g I might try mixing in half and half... It is the coldest day of the year here so far, and I am itching to Ride!! But, it has been a Long Time Comming!!
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Post by mftic on Oct 19, 2015 7:48:36 GMT -5
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Post by vyndarlys on Oct 19, 2015 20:57:41 GMT -5
If Batman Rode a Scooter!! (Stealth Style!) Long exposure showing new LED lights!! Final look! Thanks for all the help fellas!! I may eventually look into a big bore kit, or upgrading my torque spring, but that would mean tweaking out my roller weights and carb jets all over again... for now, I want to enjoy it for a little while before winter!! Thanks again!!
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Post by cyborg on Oct 21, 2015 8:14:09 GMT -5
Boy that was as painful as it possibly could be,,,glad you got it going,,,very frustrating to have odd ball problems that display strange symptoms ,,,happy day!!!!!
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Mar 11, 2016 12:02:35 GMT -5
If it runs 20 minutes then your entichning circuit is what's causing the start up, sploog is from richness try adjusting the air screw. If you snap the throttle on stand and the rpm is slow returning that's the issue, you also may have a worn top end after 5-1k miles clone top ends throw the flag. You can also adjust throttle clip height I operate on sploogw my piolets slighly too large so that leaves me room for exhaust upgrade splooge only on idle you have splooge at high rpm your mains drowning you 50s use primarly 75- stock depending on elevation. "Adjust needle clip attatched to throttle cable" raising c clip up needle leans down Richens always stay between 3-4 position." Never go lean no smoke should always look like mild smoke like a cold car. Never go over rich makes piston melt. Winter i use .40 gap on ngk fresh top end summer stock gap .24-.28 Tip should be coffee brown but not oily
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Mar 14, 2016 16:47:01 GMT -5
Without exhaust is a 75% myth but it will burn up your exhaust port side from being unable to heat transfer to the exhaust pipes.
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